gursh d

Bought a JDM B18C motor from siR-G integra. Car is giving me a hard time starting. It cranks, and sounds like it wants to turn over, but just doesn't. Searched and found this thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1992733

Spark: Was getting weak orange spark from old spark plugs. Went to autozone and picked up premium bosch spark plugs. When changing spark plugs, I noticed the cylinder one spark plug had moisture build up.

Fuel: I am getting fuel. I put in a couple gallons of 93 octane about 2 weeks ago. fuel pump primes and fuel goes through fuel rail. I'm not totally sure if the injectors are getting fuel though.

Compression and Timing: The motor was purchased from HMO, and they are guaranteed to start. I asked HMO for a compression test, and it was 225 across the board.

Main Relay: Bought a new OEM relay from a dealer. Replaced and still no start.

I'm at a loss, don't know why its giving me this much of an issue. Could it be a ground shortage? I have the valve cover ground connected, thermostat ground, and the battery negative cable goes from the terminal, then grounds to the frame rail, then grounds to the clutch cable bracket. So that's three grounds, any other's I'm missing?

Blown fuse? The connecter plugs by the engine bay fuse box not connected correctly? Bad starter?

The motor is already in, and I'm starting to doubt HMO, even though their highliy recommended. I didn't even to check if it had a timing belt.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

gursh d

up?

mellowbeam

aren't u at a university. uh. Well, check your connections you were talking about with ur light bright tool. You know what that is right? Just check to make sure power and ground is feeding through to the right places. A test light. yeaaaaaaaa. And def. look at your fuse boxes and every relay imagineable. Like the starter one. Listen for clicks. Or somethin. Start with a test light.

7PSI CRX

I've got to ask.

What engine did you take out?

What ECU are you using?

Did you make wiring modifications?

gursh d

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 7PSI CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got to ask.

What engine did you take out?

What ECU are you using?

Did you make wiring modifications?</TD></TR></TABLE>

stock d16a6 from a 91 SI.

P72 non-chipped

OBD1 Conversion via Rywire w/ stock harness OBD1 conversion and OBD1 jumper harness
VTEC subharness

grog

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gursh d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It cranks, and sounds like it wants to turn over, but just doesn't. </TD></TR></TABLE>

so is the motor actualy turning over?or is it just the starter spinning?

It sounds like your starter is spinning but not engaging your flywheel maybe.

any CEL codes?

HOODLOVER

if you know your getting fuel to the rail,and spark then get a long screw driver, put one end on the same spot of each injector,and theother end to your ear. listen for the one that sounds different( in most cases this works but iv ruled out inj. before only to be led back to the injectors)

also get some one to turn the engine over and you look into the oil cap hole
if your valvetrain is moving you know you have a timing belt.. hehe

got00rice

my type r engine i order from HMO did that and i just got it to work. make sure u have the correct engine harness cause when i drop it in i thought the jdm engine harness was going to work but it didnt. i got the engine to turn over but wouldnt start so i got a 95 civic ex harness on and used a obd2-obd1 adaptor for the distributor plug and put it on and everything start up after i got everything hook up so u should try that..

efkilla

hey you should try putting carb cleaner in your intake while you cranck if it starts its your injector relay it might not be conected right that hapened to mine

BenjyJ

re-check your wiring.

I CRX I

DID YOU REPLACE THE STOCK BATTERY GROUND WITH A THINKER ONE? sorry for the caps. that fixed my problem. also, there is a small grey box that should be located on the drivers side wire harness next to the big yellowish white plug (by the hood prop). thats like a resistor box and your car will not turn on if this is not plugged in tightly to the socket.

BenjyJ

if I CRX I is talking about the injector resistor box then converting the car to obdI you would no longer need that box?

I CRX I

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BenjyJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if I CRX I is talking about the injector resistor box then converting the car to obdI you would no longer need that box?</TD></TR></TABLE>actually, its no longer a big metal box for obd1, its a small grey plug as pictured in the center of this picture. if removed or not plugged in correctly, motor will crank but wont turn on.

gursh d

Rywire did the resistor box conversion for OBD0 to OBD1. They changed the voltage and capped the plug which is designed to eliminate the actual resistor box. So should I check the wiring of the capped plug?

I CRX I

with it being a rywire piece, i doubt the wiring would be bad but i would look over the cap and see if theres anything wierd about it i.e. not pushed in all the way or somthing similiar.

camboMONK

I had the exact same issue. Everything check out fine...spark,fuel,timing, and compression. What I did was spray some starting fluid to see if it would start and it did. That tells me it has something to do with the fuel delivery. I check voltage on each injector and check continuity on each injector going to the ecu and it's good. What I found out was the injector was not getting the signal to fire using a NOID tester.
The problem was the obd0 to obd1 conversion harness was bad. Change it out and the car started with no problems.

SoCal B18b 4dr

i just skimmed through the posts, so if i missed it then sorry, but what dizzy are u using? if using a obd1 ecu u have to use an obd1 dizzy.