hondacivic97si

Car: Honda Civic 97 si
EJ9 Hatchback
Manual Transmission
Fuel Injected
D14A4 Engine
Imported to European Country


EDIT:

My vehicle seems not to have the aforementioned 16P Data Link Connector, but may have a 5-pin european version. So far I have only found the blue two-pin hotwire OBD-I connector and a three pin counterpart to this. I am in Europe, but not the EU.

My car does have a blue three-pin connector, is this a diagnostic port, and is it possible to convert this to the American OBD-II using a ?

That way I could read codes/input with a normal OBD-II scan tool or bluetooth box.

Or would I need a european specific scan tool for my non-american ECU?

Not my car but looks like this:




OLD POST / OBSOLETE: I am sorry if this has been covered in another thread, but I have tried to search on the forums and through google but haven't found this.

I am looking for the 16P Data Link Connector on my Civic. (This is the connector used by scanners to track sensor data and OBD-II codes.) According to the OBD code thread, being a 97 model, my car has both OBD-I and OBD-II capability.

I have removed the facia/shrouds around and under the kick panels and steering column, as well as the ash tray. Nothing.

It is not where the service manual suggests. The Haynes manual has no pictures of it.

Also, I am outside the USA, does that matter?

Does my car somehow NOT have one?

chrysler kid

The obd2 plug is between the hood release and fuse box on the under side of the dash. It was probably knocked loose and is somewhere in the wiring above your fuse box

tech8

Image deleted. Not applicable to OP.

HondaPartsHero

You don't have one

tech8

I missed this part.

+1

tech8

Even if your car doesn't have the 16-pin OBD-II/DLC, it should still have a different type of Data Link Connector. For example, this picture is from a 1999 UK Accord; the 5P DLC is used with a dongle and Honda's diagnostic equipment for accessing trouble codes, etc. The 2-P connector is the Service Check Connector, where you can use a small wire to jump the terminals to retrieve any trouble codes by counting flashes on the dash indicator lights.

hondacivic97si

Damn. Why cant I have nice toys?

That 5P DLC in the picture, can I connect an and read codes/input with a normal OBD-II scan tool or bluetooth box?

Or do I need an american ECU too?

HondaPartsHero

American ECU, also if I'm not mistaken your ECU only has 2 plugs so you'd probably need an american interior harness as well.

hondacivic97si

Aw, so I have to swap ECUs, Wires, etc just to get the ability to use OBD2? That sucks. How do mechanics over here run diagnostics anyway?

This is a picture from a different car but the connectors are the same on mine:


I can find an adapter cable and a bluetooth box for OBD2 but what good is that if the ECU wont talk to me? ****.

HondaPartsHero

I personally use an app on my phone and a wifi adapter on ebay to plug into the OBD2 port.

tech8

Your car is probably like the OBD-I cars here in the U.S.

The 2P service check connector can be jumped with a wire or small paper clip and any existing trouble code(s) read by counting the flashing indicator lights (e.g., Check Engine Light, D4, etc.) on the dash.

The 3P DLC requires an adapter and Honda software/hardware. It is not OBD-II.

This image is of a 95 Civic's service check connector and DLC.

hondacivic97si

Alright. Thanks for the clarification on that.

SCMFOX

hondacivic97si

Yes yes. As we have discussed, the euro spec. civics of this period did not have an OBDII connector. From my understanding, this is because the ECU did not support OBDII at all.
However, take a look at that connector in the picture of the first post. If you do not have an OBDII in your civic, you should have one of these (in the right side of the "foot space" of the passenger seat).

What I ended up doing (From what I can recall):

I shorted the two terminals on the connector using a paperclip. This allowed the ECU to transmit primitive error codes (pre OBDII) in the form of short and long flashes on the Check Engine Light. There are guides on how to interpret the sequences. I found some basic codes that I did not believe where relevant to my main problems.

Now, since this primitive diagnostic system does not provide live sensor data, I decided to test the majority of the sensors using a multimeter, and cross reference the voltages and/or resistance to known specs. I also assessed the mechanical portion of the timing (valves and ignition), and eliminated other purely mechanical malfunctions, for example in the air inlet and idle air control valve.

With all my findings, I concluded that the culprit was a faulty ignition control module (I think thats what its called), in other words, a small computer inside the distributor.

"Professional" technicians would have changed the entire distributor with chords and plugs. I just ordered a new ignition control module and thats all she needed.