AllAboutHonda

I'm looking for a rebuild new engine about 30,000 miles or so. Can anyone tell me what engine will fit my 98 civic ex? I want something that plug and play. I don't want anything that I have to convert it or cut and weld... Thanks for your time.

TOO MUCH TORQUE

the simplest would be any OBD2 96-00 EX engine...

Havoc460

Yah, any OBD2 D series engine should be just bolt in. But if you get one with vtech you may have to do some wireing.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

D16Y8. Plug and play. OBD2A

CrackingVTEC

iTrader: (2)

Depends on how deep your pockets are.

wakajdm8732

All depends on what you want. Take a look at hmotorsonline.com

Wrona

any honda engine with enough money...

simplest would be 96-98 honda civic ex swap its direct plug and play the 99-00 is diffrent

BAM! 93 hatch

The sky is the limit with the right amount of research and money.

apexi_rsx

you can swap in any D16. best one to swap would be a z6. running any obd1 motor u will need to swap over the oil pan, oil pump, oil pick up and distributor from ur previous motor. u could run a obd1 distributor but u will need an adapter. the obd2 distributor will only bolt up with one bolt but is sufficient i have ran my z6 motor this way for years and no oil leaks.

AllAboutHonda

I'm not looking into building it. Just a everyday thing, something that will take me 800 miles there and 800 miles back home, kinda like a travel car with out any problems,. so I was thinking about a rebuild motor, that has 30,000 miles to 60,000 miles. I was thinking something a little more then the stock engine, D16Y8. I hate cutting, welding and etc. just plug and play, well you guys know what I mean. A little wiring should be okay, I got $3000. and I need one badly. Cause mine is leaking oil and it sounds like crap.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Call HMO. Low mileage Japanese engines. They will hook you up. Tell them what you need.

Cap'N Chronic

If you've got 3k to spend I would just go ahead and upgrade to a B series. There is no cutting or welding involved, you just need to acquire some extra parts to do the swap.

AllAboutHonda

HMO, yeah was looking at that too, but I'm not sure what will fit. I might just call them and see what they got. But first I want something a little stronger but stock motor only and complete motor, cause I hate one thing after another ya know what I mean. I hate dealing with oil leaking and other junk, etc.

yeah I was thinking about that too, B series. I just want some basic parts not as in cheap parts that well last me 6months and under, I'm talking about 2 to 3 years. Something that will total up to 3g. What would I be looking at as in axles, motor mounts, etc...? if I would to go with B series. I just want a heads up, thanks guys for your reply.

NOFX

Most engine swaps don't require cutting and welding in these cars.

Any OBD2 D-series will be very simple, as will any OBD2 B-series. I don't know much about H-series, but I think they're relatively easy as well... I have heard of clearance issues regarding the hood skeleton on some '88-'00 model Civics, but I don't remember all the details.

The only engines I can think of offhand that would require cutting and welding would be K-series and J-series engines into this chassis. Those are very expensive swaps comparably anyway, and the J-series I wouldn't even call a daily driver engine since when swapped in these cars they end up either having big clearance issues with the hood or the ground.

Federal law says you can't run an engine older than the chassis (most areas won't look for this though). If you have to bring the car through emissions then you need to use something OBD2 (1996 or newer by federal mandate, but some 1994 or 1995 models might be OBD2). Some states also don't allow light truck (such as CRV) engines to be swapped into passenger vehicles.

The main parts of an engine swap you're going to need to be concerned about are:
- Engine
- Transmission
- Mounts
- ECU
- Wire harness
- Axles
- Shift linkage

D-series swaps in this car also mean you can retain the stock mounts, axles, shift linkage, transmission and some other parts. But the D16Y8 (127hp) that your car came with is basically the highest powered D-series you're going to get in that car.

So that means you're probably going to want to look into B-series swaps.

Likely USDM candidates will be (these are all USDM versions, if you want something older it might not be listed on here):
- B16A2 (1999-2000 Civic Si)
- B18B1 (1994-2001 Integra GS/LS/RS)
- B18C1 (1994-2001 Integra GS-R)
- B18C5 (1997-1998, 2000-2001 Integra Type-R)
- B20B (1997-1998 CRV)
- B20Z (1999-2001 CRV)

There are JDM (Japanese market) engines that are comparable, but it starts getting confusing as far as all the trims they came in, so this is a guideline. The JDM swaps won't have that last numeral in the engine code (So, B18C instead of B18C1 or B18C5 - this means JDM engines can get a tad more difficult to ID).

Remember if you need to pass emissions you will need to use a USDM ECU (JDM ECUs and likely some other origin ECUs will not read when hooked up to a code scanner).

NOFX

Stock parts will last you well over the life span you're talking about.

Used stock parts don't often have a warranty like some aftermarket parts will though. That might be fine unless as soon as you put the car on the ground it binds an axle.

AllAboutHonda

Sorry, What I was trying to say is I bought this bushing kit for my old 92 hatch which I don't have anymore and somehow it went to hell, metal sitting on metal. I can't remember what the name brand but yeah. So I just don't want that again, I work on it again, cause I don't have tools. You know what I mean can't work without tools.

kyden

neither of those swaps need cutting in an ek either. the only cutting with a k series is in EG or integra. so theoretically they're all really easy to just drop in, just gotta do some wiring.

Cap'N Chronic

OEM is your best bet, unless you want to spend some serious $$$ on quality aftermarket parts such as Spoon or Mugen. Try to stay away from Ebay, most of the parts on there don't tend to last all that long....

NOFX

eBay can be a great resource... but you really need to be able to know what you're buying. Don't rely on the seller.

An example is this: Last week or so I was looking for an airbox and air intake arm for an EF. I need the larger one that matches to a 55mm throttle body. I currently have the one for the 40mm throttle body (HF).

I find sellers listing some of their stock airboxes and arms as fitting any '88-'91 CRX, when they won't because of that throttle body.

Once you start knowing how to tell the correct parts from the other ones you'll start seeing a LOT of parts are sold on eBay, CL and even on here as being for the wrong car.

Use a site like hondapartsdeals.com to compare part numbers sometimes btw. You might be surprised that some parts are the exact same for different models. I need to get my EPC up and running again so I can compare better (the EPC will tell you "this part number" fits "this car for these years", "this car for these years", and "this car for these years").

Cap'N Chronic

True that I just figured the OP was new to modifying cars, because eBay is not a good place to shop if you don't know what your looking for, like you were saying. Most beginner tuners fall for the scams that are all over eBay, so I just just suggesting to stay away until he has a good idea of exactly what he's looking for.

NOFX

If you're looking for one part on eBay and you come here first and research said part, then you might manage to buy the correct part on eBay.

Say CTR headlights. Have to make sure they're the right year span and that you can tell the right year. Make sure they're actually OE and not just black housing headlights (gunmetal chrome color NOT black, city light socket, no casper shield, for example).

I actually found my set of '98 CTR lights on here for cheap because the guy thought they were broken because they had no casper shields.

nealnanoHX

D series, B series, H series, J series and K series will all go into a 92-00 Civic
D16Y8 is 100% plug and play, B16A OBD2 plug and play and B18C5 plug and play motor swaps for the most part.

AllAboutHonda

Guys, I found one I think is a good prize and it come with complete! :D

35,000 miles
B18B 93-01 LS
Motor, Hydraulic Tranny, ECU (P75), Axles, Shift Linkage, Stock Motor Mounts *,Alternator, Starter, Clutch, Flywheel, Intake Manifold, Exhaust Manifold, Fuel Rail,Injectors, Distributor, Engine Harness

asking for $2,500.

I was wondering if the Stock motor mount on the LS fit my civic ex coupe engine bay? Or do I need after market motor mounts and I almost for got what about the axles too? do I need to get new ones? a after market covert one?

96electronH

99-00 si rear mount mount bracke and the drivers side mount mount bracket under the timing cover. you can use your mounts.

AllAboutHonda

what? I don't get it? I'm lost..