jermo

What up guys! I have a 2000 Honda Civic SI with the stock B16 in it...figured i'd post this problem that i cannot F'n figure out on the website where the smart honda dudes are at

oh man this might be really confusing.....
i start my car in the morning, it idles fine, when i press on the gas it accelerates smoothly and just acts normal in general

Once my car heats up, the problem starts...it seems to happen at very random times but usually when im stopped
When my car is warm and im stopped at a light, all of a sudden my idle kicks up to 1.5k and stays there
If i press on the gas a little bit the idle jumps from 1.5k to 2k, back and forth very quickly
If i press on the gas more it jumps straight up to 4k, like it was stuck between 1.5k and 2k for a few seconds
I let off and it goes back to 1.5k
What i also noticed once the idle kicks up to 1.5k (say im in third doing 40 on the highway) i let off the gas and my car jerks kinda like it popped out of gear...i step on the gas and it jerks forward (this makes me think of some kind of vacuum problem)
When my car is cold it does NOT jerk like it does above, i let off or press the gas and its a smooth transition like normal...

I park my car, let it sit overnight, fire it up in the morning and its back to the same routine....it works just fine until the car heats up and my idle kicks up...once the idle kicks up my problems start

Mind you i am throwing a code 14 which is the IACV and i have already replaced with a known good IACV...reset the computer and let my car come up to operating temperature and all that
When i unplug the IACV my idle decreases which means the IACV is working just fine....
I have also swapped out the computer and main relay for ***** and giggles..still no bueno!

Im at a loss....its gotta be a sensor or vacuum line.....what do you guys think?

Hybrid96EK

Im thinking TPS Sensor....

jermo

i think someone else offered that as a solution but im thinkin it would throw a code if it was bad right? heard TPS is a pain in the *** to change and calibrate...and why the hell cant i get my IACV code to go away lol might have to try another IACV too

v8killaz

i had an idle prob, where it idled high and once i hit the gas a little it would boue from 1.2-1.6 up and down like a rev limiter
then on the highway i couldnt keep a constant speed because it felt like the throttle was stuck and opened suddenly istead of smoothly

i just reset the code and miraculously it never came back, it was also thowing iacv code whoich was brand new

tps is not that hard to change btw

dth0ng69

I have a similar problem, its almost like driving with your IACV 3p connector disconnected right? it idles around. 1.5k and move around up and down a little bit.
when ever you gas, or let go of gas its alot more jerky. When you turn the car off for at least 2 seconds then turn it back on the problem goes away but comes back in 10-30 minutes.

jermo

god i wish that would happen to me! i reset this damn thing so much...even tried another computer, but same codes and same problem...i've been dealing with this for about 4 months now, just finally got the courage to ask someone lol

U hit the nail on the head man! although i havent tried to unplug the IACV and drive around..i may try that
but you definitely are having the exact same problem...sometimes i shut my car off at a light cuz i hate when the idle kicks up and my car becomes VERY jerky...if i let it sit for like a minute it somehow resets whatever kicks my idle up and im fine for a little while or until i stop
if im driving on the highway it doesnt usually just kick on so if i keep drivign im good...its only when im stopped and the car is warm that the problem starts

Hybrid96EK

3p IACV is a Y7, not a B16. Those use 2p connectors. If its still throwing a code then I would say you have a bad connection in the harness. Possibly a short. Get out your meter and test for continuity from the connector back to the ECU. You'll need a Helm or to research online what pin to check back at the ECU.

The TPS isn't designed to be changed.. You can use a dremel and notch the flat screw heads. I know it looks like a rivet, but its a broken off screw. Stick a flat slot in it and you can unscrew the TPS. Get the new one, put it on. Probe the middle wire (I think thats the right one) with a DMM with key on, engine off. Adjust the TPS until it reads .45volts throttle closed and the tighten the screws. Done.

shogee

yea if code is still on i think there is a circuit problem with the iacv

v8killaz

bump for fellow em1 owner

Former User

I agree.

OP: A faulty TPS won't always throw a TPS CEL code. Check the output voltages at different throttle angles. Also pull the CEL code with an OBD2 scan tool. You'll get a code that gives more information than generic code 14.

Also try cleaning the throttle body and checking whether the throttle cable is too tight. It should have about 1/2" slack near the throttle body.

Finally, electrical troubleshoot the 2-wire ECT sensor under the distributor.

jermo

Heres a video of my idle issue...you can see it idles at 1.5k when its hot and the problem starts...when i slowly press the gas the idle bounces between 1.5k and 2k...its like its stuck there because if i keep pressing the gas, it finally jumps up to 3k or 4k after a while

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0QxQXD4cck

jermo

the motor was rebuild by me and a few friends i should add
the throttle body and IM were cleaned out very good with break cleaner
this motor was actually sitting for about 3 years so maybe some of the sensors are dead...we had to replace the knock sensor, injectors, IACV (but light is still on of course), and i think that was about it (besides replacing the internals) so everything else hasnt worked in about 3 years if that limits it down any?

v8killaz

just about the same hting wa shappening to me when i bought my car
it woudl idle at 1.5 and then bouce if i hit part throttle and on the highway it would have a dead spot than suddenly accelerate

the guy did replace the iacv, and said that fixed it but then it came back on so i reset the code
and its been fine since

the iacv ca be picky at times to so maybe replace or clean it out

Thmanx

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYDTJNFvCuk

yep i got the exact same thing with me. (also had this problem with my original D16Y8 engine & an Em1 i had for a while)

happens at random, & have to pull the fusey to reset the ECU

does your car also aimlessly try to find the idle before it gets stuck at 1,5k?

i.e. you let off the gas and come to a light, and your tach goes (1400, 900, 1300, 900, 1200, 800) and stops?


I've heard cleaning does the trick, but I tried that with no luck. I ended up buying a brand new OEM IAC out of frustration for like $140. Was happy for a week and then this happened again!


I'm hoping for some suggestions too. Im all outa ideas of how to fix it, next to say letting a Honda Dealer play with my B16A2 swap, hehe...

dth0ng69

Yo.. I have the solution, I had the same exact problem, and what solved it for me is my idle screw was too far out, screw it all the way back in, and losen it 1 complete turn. I guess that is how it came out of the factory like. since your iacv is clean, it worked for me.. try it and let me know if it works for you...

Thmanx

I can try but im quite sure that only makes it worse.

Right now the Idle screw is ALL the way in for me, and it still idles high once warm, (at say 900-1000)

I've run through the service manual for proper OEM idle setup
(disconnect IACV/EVAP, set idle at 450, reconnect. Set idle to 750, test with AV/Heater on, set to 810) and done all the correct ECU resets to save the settings. While they work great when the engine is cold, once the car gets warm, my idle is now in the 1300-1500 range all the time until it inevitably does the CEL+surge problem.

for me, setting the idle screw all the way in is keeping the idle lower, but its definitely just fixing a symptom, not the cause.

shogee

if you already tried that, try adjust the screw stop for the throttle plate, then set the idle screw.

kulo

im getting the same idle problem
change gsr tb to ek9
re-used my outlaw engineering thermal gasket tb

92ehatch

your car can throw the IACV code simply by having the idle adjusted wrong as well.

let your car warm up to operating temp, unplug the IACV, and see where it idles

the idle should be somewhere around 500 rpms

if its too high (1k or more) lower the idle by turning the idle adjust screw clockwise.

once that is set, plug the IACV back up and reset the codes.

see if the code clears or not.

jermo

I went out and tried this...i screwed the idle screw all the way in but it only screwed in a about 1 complete turn...so it seems as if it was already in the correct spot...i unscrewed it 1 complete turn and i guess ill test that out

Hybrid96EK

Not correct. With the IACV disconnected, the idle should be around 500rpms. With it plugged in is where you would look for the 650rpm range.

Hybrid96EK

Then you have a large vac leak of some sort. Cover the TB entirely with your hand. Does the car die or continue to run? It should die. If not, you have a leak.

Thmanx

Yeah il try that. I don't think there is because I don't hear anything & I've shot WD40 at all my hoses connections and the rpm didn't jump up. But that is definetly a good way to check

ekeddie

iTrader: (1)

not sure if this helps but i had the same problem a few years bacc, it was a vaccum leak, right behind the intake manifold on the side opposite of the throttle body there was a smooth fitting for vaccum line thats kid of hard to see, and i plugged it, problem never came bacc

Thmanx

I will admit it does sound like one.

I did have this problem before on my OEM manifold & I just replaced it with a Skunk2 manifold.

Perhaps one of the hoses have a crack in them. We'll see tomorrow