update: on ek auto transmition "check engine light code"
#1
update: on ek auto transmission problem "check engine light code"
i've been having some problems with my ek hatch and my cel finally came on. the first code was p0700- which indicated a transmission fault.
the second code was p0730
definition
fautly shift control system
probable cause:
1-low transmission fluid (which is full)
2-poor electrical connection (which i went over for 2 days)
3-failed transmission shift control system (dont know what this is???)
this is the problem i was having with my car in this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2076178
the second code was p0730
definition
fautly shift control system
probable cause:
1-low transmission fluid (which is full)
2-poor electrical connection (which i went over for 2 days)
3-failed transmission shift control system (dont know what this is???)
this is the problem i was having with my car in this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2076178
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: update: on ek auto transmission problem "check engine light code" (dailyekhatch)
Thats not a very nice code to throw, is that the only code it is throwing? How many miles are on that transmission? When was the last time it was serviced with a new filter and flush.
Can you still drive it, and if so, does it flare off? (like slipping the clutch in a manual) when it shifts gears?
Check the connections to the three solenoids on the front of the transmission. Make sure they are clean and making good contact. If you have a voltmeter, check the resistance on the three solenoids, the one all by itself should have a resistance of 5 Ohms. The two shift solenoids that are mounted together should have 12-25 Ohms. If they are out of spec, replace them.
Last thing, and I hope it doesn't come to this, perform a stall test on the transmission in all gears, starting with D4. Hold the brake down hard and floor the gas pedal and note the RPM the engine holds at, don't do this for more than 5 seconds, and wait at least 15 seconds before shifting to the next gear.
If the stall RPM exceeds 3,000 RPM in D4 or D3 DO NOT stall any other gears, this indicates you have either hydraulic failure of the transmission, or clutches that are severely burned/worn out. If this is the case, complete overhaul/replacement is the final verdict.
Can you still drive it, and if so, does it flare off? (like slipping the clutch in a manual) when it shifts gears?
Check the connections to the three solenoids on the front of the transmission. Make sure they are clean and making good contact. If you have a voltmeter, check the resistance on the three solenoids, the one all by itself should have a resistance of 5 Ohms. The two shift solenoids that are mounted together should have 12-25 Ohms. If they are out of spec, replace them.
Last thing, and I hope it doesn't come to this, perform a stall test on the transmission in all gears, starting with D4. Hold the brake down hard and floor the gas pedal and note the RPM the engine holds at, don't do this for more than 5 seconds, and wait at least 15 seconds before shifting to the next gear.
If the stall RPM exceeds 3,000 RPM in D4 or D3 DO NOT stall any other gears, this indicates you have either hydraulic failure of the transmission, or clutches that are severely burned/worn out. If this is the case, complete overhaul/replacement is the final verdict.
#3
Re: update: on ek auto transmission problem "check engine light code" (slowcivic2k)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats not a very nice code to throw, is that the only code it is throwing? How many miles are on that transmission? When was the last time it was serviced with a new filter and flush.
Can you still drive it, and if so, does it flare off? (like slipping the clutch in a manual) when it shifts gears?
Check the connections to the three solenoids on the front of the transmission. Make sure they are clean and making good contact. If you have a voltmeter, check the resistance on the three solenoids, the one all by itself should have a resistance of 5 Ohms. The two shift solenoids that are mounted together should have 12-25 Ohms. If they are out of spec, replace them.
Last thing, and I hope it doesn't come to this, perform a stall test on the transmission in all gears, starting with D4. Hold the brake down hard and floor the gas pedal and note the RPM the engine holds at, don't do this for more than 5 seconds, and wait at least 15 seconds before shifting to the next gear.
If the stall RPM exceeds 3,000 RPM in D4 or D3 DO NOT stall any other gears, this indicates you have either hydraulic failure of the transmission, or clutches that are severely burned/worn out. If this is the case, complete overhaul/replacement is the final verdict.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes thats the only code its throwing out. and the transmission has about 130k miles on it. i could still drive it, and yea it feels like a upgraded manual clutch everytime it shifts into another gear (its not a smooth shift at all).
Can you still drive it, and if so, does it flare off? (like slipping the clutch in a manual) when it shifts gears?
Check the connections to the three solenoids on the front of the transmission. Make sure they are clean and making good contact. If you have a voltmeter, check the resistance on the three solenoids, the one all by itself should have a resistance of 5 Ohms. The two shift solenoids that are mounted together should have 12-25 Ohms. If they are out of spec, replace them.
Last thing, and I hope it doesn't come to this, perform a stall test on the transmission in all gears, starting with D4. Hold the brake down hard and floor the gas pedal and note the RPM the engine holds at, don't do this for more than 5 seconds, and wait at least 15 seconds before shifting to the next gear.
If the stall RPM exceeds 3,000 RPM in D4 or D3 DO NOT stall any other gears, this indicates you have either hydraulic failure of the transmission, or clutches that are severely burned/worn out. If this is the case, complete overhaul/replacement is the final verdict.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes thats the only code its throwing out. and the transmission has about 130k miles on it. i could still drive it, and yea it feels like a upgraded manual clutch everytime it shifts into another gear (its not a smooth shift at all).
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: update: on ek auto transmission problem "check engine light code" (dailyekhatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dailyekhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes thats the only code its throwing out. and the transmission has about 130k miles on it. i could still drive it, and yea it feels like a upgraded manual clutch everytime it shifts into another gear (its not a smooth shift at all).</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, not shifting hard, which is totally different, but a shift in which it does not fee like it shifted all the way in gear. (IE the RPM goes up and down and up and down, but the car goes nowhere)
yes thats the only code its throwing out. and the transmission has about 130k miles on it. i could still drive it, and yea it feels like a upgraded manual clutch everytime it shifts into another gear (its not a smooth shift at all).</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, not shifting hard, which is totally different, but a shift in which it does not fee like it shifted all the way in gear. (IE the RPM goes up and down and up and down, but the car goes nowhere)
#7
Re: update: on ek auto transmission problem "check engine light code" (slowcivic2k)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, not shifting hard, which is totally different, but a shift in which it does not fee like it shifted all the way in gear. (IE the RPM goes up and down and up and down, but the car goes nowhere)</TD></TR></TABLE>
it just goes up to like 5500 rpm to switch for every gear...it doesnt feel like its slipping cause it jerks when it does shift...it moves when i give it gas but i have to romp on the accelerator to move to the next gear
No, not shifting hard, which is totally different, but a shift in which it does not fee like it shifted all the way in gear. (IE the RPM goes up and down and up and down, but the car goes nowhere)</TD></TR></TABLE>
it just goes up to like 5500 rpm to switch for every gear...it doesnt feel like its slipping cause it jerks when it does shift...it moves when i give it gas but i have to romp on the accelerator to move to the next gear
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#8
Honda-Tech Member
Re: update: on ek auto transmission problem "check engine light code" (dailyekhatch)
There is a cable that runs down to the transmission housing that connects to the throttle plate, follow that wire and see if the linkage to the transmission, or the mounting point for the cable is bent, broken or disconnected.
If this cable is let loose, it will max the transmissions line pressure, and make you shift late, and very hard, this is normal when there is a malfunction, as to not damage the transmission components.
If it shifts all the gears, the shift valves are fine. Have you tried flooring it in every gear to see if it kicks down to the next? IE 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd, 2nd to 1st.
If this cable is let loose, it will max the transmissions line pressure, and make you shift late, and very hard, this is normal when there is a malfunction, as to not damage the transmission components.
If it shifts all the gears, the shift valves are fine. Have you tried flooring it in every gear to see if it kicks down to the next? IE 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd, 2nd to 1st.
#9
Re: update: on ek auto transmission problem "check engine light code" (slowcivic2k)
i checked for that cable and its not there so i guess thats the problem...cause it should be right where the coolant lines are for the transmission right??
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