I've been seeing a lot of threads regarding people asking of immediate help on their aftermarket tachometer installations. This guide will hopefully end all questions as far as the electrical wiring is concerned. I SUGGEST YOU READ EVERYTHING BEFORE PROCEEDING FURTHER DOWN THE INSTALLATION SECTION!
I am NOT liable for the damages or injuries that you sustained for this installation guide. Proceed at your own risk! Click here for failure to comply. All pictures are taken off different websites since I don't have a camera to take my own. I will immediately take them down if needed just e-mail me at email@example.com
Most Honda vehicles.
1. Heat shrink tubings-
Needed to cover up soldered wires that were tapped into. I prefer multi-color for a much cleaner and invisible look but you can use regular heat shrink tubings that matches the right gauge of your wires.
Multi-color heat shrink tubings
can be picked up from your local Radio Shack.
2. Wire cutter-
Needed to cut through thick and thin gauge wires.
Kronus™ 4.5" mini diagonal cutter
from Radio Shack.
3. Wire stripper-
Needed to strip different gauge wires.
Kronus™ 4-way crimping and stripping tool
from Radio Shack.
4. Solder iron and clear flux solder or solderless connectors/crimp connectors-
Needed to securely connect the wires needed to be tapped into and wires coming from your tachometer. If you don't have soldering irons or don't want to buy one,
you can always use crimp connectors but I'd rather recommend soldering since they provide the best reliability under 13G launches at the drag strip
. Crimp connectors tend to become loose over time and eventually disconnect the wires.
from Radio Shack.
5. Dental pick or any other sharp tool to separate wires when tapping.
6. Screw driver, screws, and other items needed for mounting your tachometer.
7. Last but not the least, your aftermarket tachometer!
Most people have Autometer/Autogauge aftermarket tachometers but I decided to pick up one of Defi's Step Graph tachometer with a control module since I like the small and stealthy look (3 1/8") compare to most of autometer's tachometers at 5." I got it brand new for $279.99 plus shipping on overboost.com.
1. Since most people have an Autometer tachometer, I decided to use Overboost's installation pictures of an Autometer tachometer on their project CRX and Civic.
Before we proceed, here's a basic wiring diagram provided by Autometer for most applications-
For more questions regarding the wiring diagram, go here
Here's a wiring diagram from Defi-
The wire colors for different tachometers vary depending on the manufacturer. As you can see from the above diagrams, the some wiring colors and connections are different esp. on the RPM signal wire connection. Despite of different wire colors, they serve the same purposes and are tapped into the same destination wires.
Again since most people use Autometer's tachometer's and the only pictures I have are that of Overboost's using it then I will show you installation using Autometer's wiring diagram.
2. Take all necessary materials out. Make sure you don;t leave your keys in the ignition and disconnect negative cable off the battery for safety measures lol.
3. Decide on a mounting location of your tachometer (Most people prefer mounting it to the A-pillar since it provides a more stable seating of the tachometer and you can use it to hide the wires behind it. Also, where I'm from the overzealous drag strip inspectors would give your tachometer a yank to check if it would shake violently during the race.)
4. Install the tachometer stand.
If you have one of those removeable A-pillar covers, use the following pictures-
If you don't have a removeable A-pillar cover or don't have one at all (old model Hondas)-
5. Remove the dash or do whatever you need for all I care to get access on the wires that are to be tapped into. http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=636033
6. IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO SOLDER GO HERE http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm
Luckily most Hondas are pre-wired for tachometer connections. Green wire on Autometer tachometers goes to a blue wire coming off the backside of instrument cluster or THERE'S A DEAD END SINGLE WIRE (BLUE) HARNESS UNDER THE HOOD BY THE STRUT TOWER NEAR THE MC-
Black wires goes to a good ground-
Red power wire goes to the yellow ignition switch-
The remaining white wire feeds off power and light and can be spliced into any bulb wires in the dash. ***ALSO YOU CAN CONNECT MOST OF THE WIRES COMING OFF THE TACHOMETER BY STICKING THEM AROUND FUSES IN THE UNDERDASH FUSEBOX SIMPLY BY WRAPPING THEM TO THE RIGHT FUSES OR USING FUSE TAPPERS OR USING SPADE CONNECTORS AND STICK THEM IN THE TERMINALS WITH NO FUSES.
Use a test light or a voltmeter to check which ones are your constant and power wires
7. Now that you're done with wiring, check to see if everything is working, set your tach at preferred RPM, reconnect negative battery cable, replace A-pillar cover (if taken off) and VOILA! Enjoy your new tachometer hahaha.
Thanks to the following-
1. Overboost http://www.overboost.com
2. MMXpress http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm
3. Radio Shack http://www.radioshack.com
4. Defi http://www.defi-shop.com
5. Autometer http://www.autometer.com
6. H-T member Smith Wise for EK dash removal write-up
FOR MORE QUESTIONS REGARDING THE INSTALLATION, EMAIL ME AT firstname.lastname@example.org
AND FEEL FREE TO POST MORE INFORMATION TO THIS THREAD IF NEEDED
Modified by BrokeAssPinoy at 6:33 PM 8/5/2004
Modified by BrokeAssPinoy at 6:40 PM 8/5/2004
Modified by BrokeAssPinoy at 8:57 PM 8/5/2004
Modified by BrokeAssPinoy at 9:00 PM 8/5/2004
Modified by BrokeAssPinoy at 5:11 PM 1/2/2005
Modified by BrokeAssPinoy at 10:20 PM 5/29/2005