dewey_civic

iTrader: (1)

Installed this usb connector for easier access to my double din.
All I did was sit down and take a razor blade made a small square and kept cutting in the spot I wanted to put it. Keep a little of the casing off the plug and than glued it with super glue to keep it in place. Don't cut to much out it should be big enough to force it into place and than put that rubber piece you kept and glue it on. Done. I had a pm about this here you go

AdrianClayton

Washed, then used an abrasive paintwork cleaner, then waxed, looking beautiful. Now to fill in the very few chips and scratches that are left and smooth them out. Pics tomorrow.

ek9 hatch

iTrader: (2)

replaced these

R_A_Y_N_E

Today, just cleaned the ej8 a bit, yesterday the rear bumper got finished (it now matches the rest of the car) also painted and reattached my finished side skirt and reattached the underbody lights. My baby is now all back together, matching, and has her Type R in! Lovin life right now!

jbpnoman

Replaced my cut to **** bumper and fenders last weekend. They were covered in surface rust, so I had to sand them down raw, then decided to Plastidip them until the money comes along for a real paint job. It turned out rather well, I think.

Here's the surface rust. It was all over both fenders.


After sanding raw.


Completed install, side shot.


Front shot.


Also picked up an LS transmission that weekend. I've been wanting a GSR transmission, but this was a deal too good to pass up. LS transmissions with grinds (but no knock outs) go for $300-$350, and this one was a "just want to clear my garage" sell, picked it up for $100. Visually, the case looked fine, and the seals were chewed to ****. I was planning on rebuilding it anyway, so I wasn't worried about the seals. It also has a Hasport steel mount bolted to it, with healthy rubber. With that mount retailing for about a hundred anyway, I basically bought a mount and got a free transmission with it.

Transmission casing off. Yes, I'm working on it in my bedroom, in the little space between my computer desk where I was sitting taking this shot, and the foot of my bed in the pic. You can also see the mount.


Inside of the casing. Casting marks, but no cracks or breaks. Still in great shape.


Input shaft bearing. No, it's not supposed to be in two pieces. That **** was fuuuuucked up. Half of the ***** had disintegrated, and two had even fused to each other. Inner race sitting on the outer race.


Clutch housing and shift forks sitting in a tub. Just trying to catch any oil remnants so they don't get on the carpet, and keep it all together for when they get soaked in parts cleaner.


Mainshaft. I've already disassembled and reassembled it in this picture. Gearsets are all in great shape. Synchro and gear selector sleeves are a little chewed, but visually within spec. Going to have my step brother bring his Snap On micrometer set home from work this week so I can measure out everything and make sure it's still in spec. Bearings are still in good shape, with zero play, catch, or grinds.


Countershaft. It's a press-on assembly, so I can't disassemble it. Gear teeth look good, selector sleeve slides well. I'll rip it apart and measure the specs when I get the proper press and adapter for it.


Differential. Great shape, teeth are good. Once again, I'll be measuring to make sure it's "wiggle" in the gears are within spec. There's a good bit of play, but without measuring, I have no clue if it's within spec or not. Only thing stopping me from measuring is not having axles or a halfshaft.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

Thats been rebuilt before as thats a ITR one peice diff bearing

and to get the shaft apart take the nut off and bounce the shaft on a block of wood comes apart easy ..done a few like that now.. no need for a press
and you can tap the new bearings back on once oiled

jbpnoman

That's interesting about the bearing. The B16/LS bearing uses an 18mm inner and outer race, whereas the ITR/GSR bearing has an 18mm inner race, with a 19.5mm outer race, so I'm not sure how it fits...but it does. The reverse synchros catch pieces are chewed to **** though (it can spin freely within the synchro gear holder, it shouldn't), and the other synchros obviously need to be replaced visually.

I know I can brute force the countershaft - I did it when I rebuild my D series transmission. This time around though, I'm aiming for a 300-350whp build, and I want to do everything as close to perfectly as I can. My step brother works for VW/Porsche/Audi at a dealership, and has access to every high-end tool I could possibly need, so I'm going to follow the FSM to the letter for the transmission rebuild. The block is a different story, since it's getting complete forged internals, but I'll still be following spec from all of the parts manufacturers for those parts. Even had my machinist hone the sleeves to within one thousandth of a millimeter for perfect P2W clearances from Wiseco.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

if you look behind one of the bearings you will see a spacer washer bout 2mm thick
Mfactory has a guide on the updated bearing install i did it on my last 2 boxes i built

R_A_Y_N_E

Puttin on my coilovers today! :D

ek9 hatch

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't use those if I were you.

94_gsr_civic

Added a 12" glass pack muffler to my exhaust. No more raspy exhaust just nice and low. Also cut 2.5" out of the exhaust to get the muffler to sit under the car instead of sticking out from under the bumper so far. It a Integra exhaust on a civic so it to long. Also where the muffler is hitting the speed bumps in my apartment it bashed in the bottom so I welded that up and added a thicker piece of metal so it can't be bashed in.
This is how the previous owner fitted an Integra exhaust on a civic.. Yea


Then topped off the gsr transmission fluid and installed a new stereo to replace the one that was stolen a few weeks ago.

Next job is to tackle the steering rack. Not looking forward to it at all.

78F350

I rolled an EX over to finish stripping parts before I scrapped it. It had a B18 swap, some nice Si wheels, and a few other goodies, but some front end frame damage. I was about to pull the coilovers, then realized they were Ractive . I'd hate to have those end up on another car.

dseriesboulder

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to do it. Did you follow a right up or anything?

moneybagzz

bought my ek and ran it down da block couples times to feel a gsr for da first time.

jbpnoman

Finally got around to fixing my stupid idle problems. It's been idling high and pulsing for over a year now, but the pulsing is intermittent, and I could make it go away just by blipping the A/C on for a few seconds, so it wasn't a huge concern. Pulled the IAC and FITV to clean them, only to find out that my car had (wait for it)...

Two ******* IACVs installed!

Cut a 2 1/4" by 2 1/8" piece of .5 gauge weld steel, drilled four holes, and bolted it down where my FITV should have been, and boom, problem solved. Readjusted idle, replaced two missing nuts on my manifold with some grade 10 nuts and lock washers, and Ann is once again quiet, and idling at 720.

mx73lol

Took the trans out tonight to put the clutch in tomorrow.

nismoracingsx

walked by it in the garage and cleaned hatching baby spiders off the rear bumper =/
thought it was ants from afar..

still need to adjust the idle and find a new trunk lid >.>

DumpdEJ6

Started polishing the grungy OEM headlights I bought to replace the shitty "Made In Tiawan" ebay specials the previous owner put on. Sprayed the insides Honda Metallic Black, should look pretty nice. I know its just a little thing, but I'm excited! I'm going to be able to see at night!

JDM_SOHC

i'd like to see a writeup on this..

dseriesboulder

iTrader: (1)

For seat functions, ie, heat, power, etc...don't you just tap into some power and they work? I've never done it but I'd kill for some in the rex.

NewCarScent

Really like the USB port idea and the power seat thing. I'll be working on my B16A build for my EK after work today.

gzes

gotta get new tires skinnyer tho.. havnt done anything to the solwas supposed to get tail lights in but scammer scammed me out of $50 and hoping paypal gets my loot back..

fragmare

Lol how in the ****!?

I recently fixed my idle problem as well. Pulled the FITV and tightened the white plastic cylinder inside all the way down. I'll replace the FITV with a new one when I get the chance, but it's idling nice now at 700 rpm.

jbpnoman

I have a partially completed one, search for threads I've created and it should be easy to find.

Hell no, it's not that easy. For the CL-S seats, you need nine relays on the driver's side, and three or four on the passenger side. There's a good bit of soldering involved, as well. It is theoretically possible to just run a power and ground wire, but that would involve replacing the factory dash harness with one from a CL-S, as well as using two multiplex boxes to the tune of $200 each. It's just not worth it - you're better off wiring in custom relays.

When I first got the car, years ago, the first mod I did was changing from a Y7 stock IM to a Y8 style aftermarket IM. Couldn't get the car to idle right, didn't know about the resources on H-T, and after working on it for a week, gave up and had a local "tuner" guy who worked at a shop "fix" it for me. It got fixed, and I didn't ask questions. Turns out he had left the stock Y7 IACV on the TB (wired) and somehow wired a 2 wire IACV on the IM as well. He also removed my TB throttle rotor stop screw, which caused my throttle to stick. Long story short, this guy royally fucked with my car and didn't give me any details when I asked him what he did all those years ago.

I basically back pedaled all of his work and unfucked it. Still need to properly set my timing, but it was a huge step forward. On the plus side, that guy is known for owning the fastest Civic in the area - a Darton sleeved, boosted D that puts down about 300 horse. My new goal is to be faster, which should be easy with the B swap.

Noemerlo5

Just painted and installed my mugen wing would post pics bit dont know how if anyone can help me lol