Christopher26

Hey I need help I'm losing oil and no leaks or smoke so I don't know what to do any ideas please help

Jimi Hondrix

How much per day or week or month? Some loss is normal. How many miles on motor?
Have someone follow while you drive and ask them to look for dark blueish smoke from exhaust when you fast accelerate and decelerate.
Read this: https://www.amsoil.com/techservicesb...onsumption.pdf

Did you thoroughly clean the engine, cover with baby powder and inspect for leaks?
Using conventional or synthetic oil?
Last time PCV valve inspected/replaced?

Christopher26

Well burned it all off in a month and it's rebuilt 23000 miles

TomCat39

This doesn't specify how much has burned off in a month or even the distance travelled for the burn off.

Honda spec states the car can burn up to 1 liter of oil every 1500 kilometers before it's considered a problem.

It sounds to me like a proper break in procedure was not done upon rebuild. The car was likely babied too much immediately after rebuild when it should have been put through it's paces.

Pulled from motoman (my favored method):

Step 1	Do three cycles	Redline 6500	Redline 7200	Redline 8400
1st	40% RPM to 60% RPM at half throttle	2600 RPM - 3900 RPM	2880 RPM - 4320 RPM	3360 RPM - 5040 RPM
cycle	60% RPM back to 40% RPM at zero throttle (Do not use the brake!)	3900 RPM - 2600 RPM	4320 RPM - 2880 RPM	5040 RPM - 3360 RPM
2nd	40% RPM to 60% RPM at half throttle	2600 RPM - 3900 RPM	2880 RPM - 4320 RPM	3360 RPM - 5040 RPM
cycle	60% RPM back to 40% RPM at zero throttle (Do not use the brake!)	3900 RPM - 2600 RPM	4320 RPM - 2880 RPM	5040 RPM - 3360 RPM
3rd	40% RPM to 60% RPM at half throttle	2600 RPM - 3900 RPM	2880 RPM - 4320 RPM	3360 RPM - 5040 RPM
cycle	60% RPM back to 40% RPM at zero throttle (Do not use the brake!)	3900 RPM - 2600 RPM	4320 RPM - 2880 RPM	5040 RPM - 3360 RPM
	If done on dyno, allow 15 minutes to cool engine before doing step 2
Step 2	Do three cycles
1st	40% RPM to 80% RPM at 3/4 throttle	2600 RPM - 5200 RPM	2880 RPM - 5760 RPM	3360 RPM - 6720 RPM
cycle	80% RPM to 40% RPM at zero throttle (Do not use the brake!)	5200 RPM - 2600 RPM	5760 RPM - 2880 RPM	6720 RPM - 3360 RPM
2nd	40% RPM to 80% RPM at 3/4 throttle	2600 RPM - 5200 RPM	2880 RPM - 5760 RPM	3360 RPM - 6720 RPM
cycle	80% RPM to 40% RPM at zero throttle (Do not use the brake!)	5200 RPM - 2600 RPM	5760 RPM - 2880 RPM	6720 RPM - 3360 RPM
3rd	40% RPM to 80% RPM at 3/4 throttle	2600 RPM - 5200 RPM	2880 RPM - 5760 RPM	3360 RPM - 6720 RPM
cycle	80% RPM to 40% RPM at zero throttle (Do not use the brake!)	5200 RPM - 2600 RPM	5760 RPM - 2880 RPM	6720 RPM - 3360 RPM
	If done on dyno, allow 15 minutes to cool engine before doing step 3
Step 3	Do three cycles
1st	30% RPM to 100% RPM at full throttle	1950 RPM - 6500 RPM	2160 RPM - 7200 RPM	2520 RPM - 8400 RPM
cycle	100% RPM to 30% RPM at zero throttle (Do not use the brake!)	6500 RPM - 1950 RPM	7200 RPM - 2160 RPM	8400 RPM - 2520 RPM
2nd	30% RPM to 100% RPM at full throttle	1950 RPM - 6500 RPM	2160 RPM - 7200 RPM	2520 RPM - 8400 RPM
cycle	100% RPM to 30% RPM at zero throttle (Do not use the brake!)	6500 RPM - 1950 RPM	7200 RPM - 2160 RPM	8400 RPM - 2520 RPM
3rd	30% RPM to 100% RPM at full throttle	1950 RPM - 6500 RPM	2160 RPM - 7200 RPM	2520 RPM - 8400 RPM
cycle	100% RPM to 30% RPM at zero throttle (Do not use the brake!)	6500 RPM - 1950 RPM	7200 RPM - 2160 RPM	8400 RPM - 2520 RPM
	If done on dyno, allow 15 minutes to cool engine before doing any more pulls

Jimi Hondrix

Is the motor running properly currently? Any knocking or abnormal noises? From my experience with a 2007 Mazda 3 (2,3L) engine which suffered from excessive oil consumption the internals (bearings, crankshaft) tolerances opened past spec and soon after developed rod knock. When I searched online it seems to be an occasional problem with the Ford Duratec 2.3L engine that that generation of Mazda 3's used. The engine had 192k miles on it when it died so I certainly can't say it's a bad engine. This may or may not be the situation with your engine however, if it wasn't rebuilt correctly and spec tolerances weren't adhered to it very well may be the issue. What is the lowest level on the dipstick the oil got down to?

If you are absolutely certain it's burning and not leaking oil (4 quarts in a month) your options are pretty limited and my guess is it won't be long before another rebuild or replacement is in order. First thing is drain oil and inspect the oil for metal particles..if you find metal particles then most likely from worn main bearings. If you don't see metal in oil then to slow burning go up to a thicker viscosity : 40w (weight) oil. You can try Lucas oil stabilizer or similar product. Also, if it's burning that much oil it may clog up the catalytic converter (if not clogged already) If you live in a state that doesn't do inspections you may want to gut the cat (knock screens out) but, it's against federal law regardless of state so, do at your own risk.

Badcopyinc

I'm currently burning more oil than i should be but its completely obvious as you cant smell anything but oil if your within 20ft of the car while its idling.

i just did a oil change and put exactly 3.75 quarts in so i can monitor how fast its burning. and im pulling my plugs this evening to see if they show signs of anything.

like jimi said have someone follow you because i haven't specifically noticed smoke until last evening when i really hit the throttle but i only noticed it because there was a car still sitting in the same spot behind me and his headlights lit the small cloud up.
again very very hard to notice through your rear view.

TomCat39

And even harder if your windows are tinted int he back like many of our cars are.