94 Civic Si

For the main cooling system hoses, I *think* the upper and lower hoses for the GSR will connect with the radiator if you have the B16 del Sol radiator in your 5th gen Civic. Last time I had to replace my radiator, the NAPA had 1 p/n for all Civics and had a rubber sleeve to go over the inlet and outlet for the bigger B series hoses.

I am not 100% sure on using GSR hoses, I seem to remember the last time I got rad hoses I had to end up cutting. Not sure if anyone is even reading this thread, but if anyone is, feel free to comment here...

19501-P72-000 - HOSE, WATER (UPPER) - # 9 in first illustration.

and

19502-P72-000 - HOSE, WATER (LOWER) - # 10 in first illustration.

*EDIT* it may be that the lower rad hose is from the VTEC del Sol 1994-1997, in which case it would be the following:

19502-P30-000 - HOSE, WATER (LOWER) - # 10 in the third illustration.

I am not sure whether to put the bypass hose that goes between the thermostat housing and the intake manifold in the main coolant loop? Or with the intake manifold...

19508-P72-000 - HOSE, BYPASS OUTLET

# 9 in the second image

3 hoses total for this loop.

94 Civic Si

For the IAC/throttle body/intake manifold it looks like I need to order the following:

#13 in image - no part number or description - I think this is just regular old straight hose suitable for coolant/temp/pressure - this connects to the inlet on the throttle body from the head.

19506-P72-J00 - HOSE, ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL VALVE IN - goes from throttle body to the IAC inlet - # 6 in image

19507-P72-010 - HOSE, ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL VALVE OUTLET - goes from the IAC outlet to the connecting tube btwn water pump and thermostat - # 8 in image

3 hoses total for this loop.

94 Civic Si

Heater core loop - starts at cylinder head, goes to inlet valve, to core, outlet to the connecting pipe that runs under the intake manifold which connects to the connecting pipe between the water pump and thermostat.

As I posted earlier, for the heater inlet, it looks like the Honda Civic hose is correct.
79721-SR3-000 - HOSE A, WATER INLET - HONDA - this is # 6 in the image, and circled in red. For some reason the GSR heater illustration seems to be for Civic on the upper left and Integra on the lower right.

I think # 8 in the first diagram would be the hose I need to go from my heater valve to heater core inlet.
79722-SR3-000 - HOSE B, WATER INLET

For the heater outlet hose that connects to the coolant tube that runs under the manifold, you want the GSR hose - # 11, and circled in red
79725-ST7-000 - HOSE, WATER OUTLET - ACURA

The last item to connect the heater back to the engine is # 4 in the second illustration:
19503-P72-010 - HOSE, CONNECTING PIPE B - this goes between the connecting pipe under the intake, and the connecting pipe between the water pump and the thermostat housing.

A total of 4 hoses for this loop.

94 Civic Si

I stopped by the local NAPA and took a look at the lower radiator hoses - I think you could probably use either the lower for a B series del Sol: NAPA p/n 9556, or the Integra ('94-'01) p/n 9336.
They did not have the Integra lower hose, it would have been nice to compare, but the del Sol hose fit nice. I can get a picture if anyone cares.
Both hoses are ~$25, so no real advantage, although if you need one when you are out on the road, the local NAPA is probably going to the have the Integra hose before they have a B series del Sol lower hose.

94 Civic Si

I decided to see if I could remove and replace the p/s rack by myself.
My rack has been leaking for years, and now the DS TRE has a lot of play in it.
I found out the remans from Honda are done by the original manufacturer, and they carry a 3 year/36k mile warranty, so I was interested.
I hear lots of horror stories about getting these racks out, but I thought I would give it a try.
Here is how I did it:

1. I put PB Blaster on everything before I started, jam nuts, PS fittings, TRE castle nuts, etc.
2. If your front wheels are straight forward, measure some reference point on your tires for toe-in. I measured the front of the front tires and at the back of the tires.
3. Crack loose the front wheel lug nuts
4. Put the front end up on stands
5. Center the steering wheel! I went lock-to-lock and counted 3.5 turns, and centered the wheel at 1.75 turns.
6. Pull the ignition key and lock the steering column.
7. Remove the front wheels.
8. I used a crow's feet (17mm?) on a breaker bar and loosened the jam nuts.
9. Remove the cotter pin and castle nuts from the TREs.
10. I rented the TRE separator from the local parts store and cracked the TREs loose. The DS just slid out, the PS went out with a bang.
11. Holding the inner rack end, un-screw your outer rod ends and count the number of turns it takes to remove. Mine took 17, each side. I did this b/c I thought I would need the clearance to get the rack out.
12. Back inside the car, I pulled the cover off the column and saw the scary sticker about removing the SRS and steering wheel. As best as I can tell, this is if you would be pushing the column back up towards the wheel. I decided to try it without removing the wheel by loosening the upper bolt on the u-joint, and then pulling the lower u-joint bolt. I hope I did not screw things up!
13. I cracked the PS hose fittings loose from up above by using the crow's feet on some extensions. You need 17, 14 and 12mm. This was not too bad b/c the head and intake are off. I would hate to do this with everything in place.
14. Underneath, you have to disconnect the shift rod, as well as the shifter holder rod. You have to either pull the cat converter, or I sagged my cat-back since I already had my header off.
15. Remove the mounting bolts that hold the rack to the sub frame. 4 bolts; 2 are 17mm, on the pass side the bolts are smaller, but I don't remember what size. The top bolt on the pass side was the worst! Not sure if it is b/c I have an LS tranny, but it was tedious.
16. Once the mounting bolts are out, pull the rack forward to separate the pinion from the column u-joint, then pull off the pinion shaft grommet.
17. Once the rack pinion is separated from the column, push the DS rack end all the way in.
18. Slide the rack all the way to the PS, rotate the pinion and then drop the DS of the rack under the sub-frame.
19. Slide that sucker out!

Hope this helps someone!

wxman94ej1

Greetings! Thanks for sharing your work, and all the photos. I love following along with folks doing a nice detailed, factory-correct (when possible), refresh or update. I'm currently in the process of re-doing some of my suspension components on my 1994 coupe with ABS, and thinking of starting my own thread to detail my progress.

Looks like you are in Colorado? I'm also in Colorado. If you're close to me, would love to lend a hand if you needed. I am not the fastest or most experienced mechanic but I can turn a wrench or offer moral support haha. Drop me a PM if you want. Either way, I'll be following along. Thanks for sharing your progress!

94 Civic Si

Well the sad news is that I broke my knock sensor when I pulled the head and intake together.

Even sadder, Honda wants ~$155 for this piece - eek!

94 Civic Si

I am glad these pictures can help someone else! I will send you a PM regarding location...

tony_2018

For documentation purposes, can you explain in detail what you mean by the bolded statement?

94 Civic Si

Certainly. Once the rack was disconnected from the steering column, I wanted to get my self all the clearance I could get on the DS end of the rack to drop it under the sub-frame. Since I took pains to keep the steering wheel in place with the rack centered, I waited until the rack was disconnected from the column. I simply pushed on the inner rack end (where the TRE screws on) until the rack had "turned" as if I were making a turn to the left. So the rack internals were compressed all the way on the DS, and all the way extended on the PS. Does that make sense?

tony_2018

I can imagine. But its not for me to know, I've done these racks about twice so its no biggy for me. Its just for others who will search, or I would HOPE they search.

wxman94ej1

Do you know what ECU you are running? Is it a P28 or a P72 or something else?

94 Civic Si

Hmm... It has been awhile since I thought about that. I feel like I am reverse engineering someone else's swap from almost 15 years ago...

I thought all the B18C swaps in EG bodies needed the OBD1 P72 ECU?

wxman94ej1

You are correct, the RIGHT way to do the swap of a B18C1 into the EG chassis it to run a P72 ECU. However, it's possible the shop could have modified ("chipped") your original ECU (P28) to work with the B18C1. The reason I am asking, is because if it is a chipped/modded P28 then there's a chance the knock sensor isn't doing anything anyway. If it is in fact a P72, then the knock sensor is being seen by the ECU.

94 Civic Si

Good point, thank you! This car has been so great, I feel like I have not looked at things for a long time. I better confirm ECU before I worry about knock sensors. I also have some problems with evap system, but again, starting with the ECU would be a good place to begin...

tony_2018

Oh lord..it doesn't matter..what if someone sold you a p72 ecu but had a p75 internals? you're fucked. Best option is to find a p28 and chip it.

94 Civic Si

I have never gotten the evap system 100% functional on this car after the swap. I tried many different iterations of vacuum line hook-up, and it boiled down to either having an awful gas vapor smell in the cabin, or a mostly functional set-up that would start to stumble on hot days in the summer if I did lots of stop-n-go driving. The first was intolerable, the second was pretty damn inconvenient.

As far as I can tell, there could be several causes:

1. Do I have correct ECU?
2. Is wiring from ECU to evap purge solenoid correct?
3. Does purge solenoid work properly?
4. Are vacuum connections from charcoal canister to throttle body and intake correct? (I am guessing no)

This body is a '94 EH3, which if I understand correctly is OBD1. The engine is from a 1996 Integra GSR, and if I am correct is OBD2. It would appear that the evap system on a '96 GSR is different from a '94 and also different from a '98. I have FSMs for a '94 Integra and from a '98 - no '96 FSM. More on this later.

Here is the basic layout for evap system in my EH3 from the FSM, as well as a picture of my charcoal canister. You can see that the evap purge solenoid on this system is just designed to open and close the diaphragm on the charcoal can, and the actual purge of the can's vapors goes into the throttle body. Make sense?

94 Civic Si

Also a good point! First things first, I need to figure out what ECU I am running. I am embarrassed to say I don't know, but this swap has been in place and running well (for the most part) since 2002.

94 Civic Si

Here is the layout for B18C1 evap system from the 1994 FSM - looks very similar to my EH3, eh? The purge solenoid looks to use manifold vacuum to open the diaphragm on the charcoal can, and ported vacuum to purge the vapors.

But this is not what I have. My evap purge solenoid looks much different...

You can see the throttle body has vacuum port, and FITV. FITV is not labeled "For AT vehicles only" like it is on the '98.

94 Civic Si

Here is the info from the FSM for '98 GSR/B18C1. The evap solenoid looks like the one I have on my '96, but the connections are way different. I have no fuel tank pressure sensor, and no 3-way evap valve on my charcoal can.

You can see throttle body on the '98 has no port for vacuum that would be used to evacuate the vapors from the can. Also note the FITV is labeled "For A/T Models Only"

94 Civic Si

So here is where I am trying to put together pieces about my specific set-up...

I cannot find a download of the FSM for the '96 Integra. I have asked over in the Integra section on here, but no replies yet.

I did find a B18C1 vacuum diagram that is different than the '94 and '98 that I posted above, so maybe it is for '95 - '97? In this picture, you can lines for what look like the evap solenoid I have, connected to a charcaol can that looks similar to the one in my Civic. You can also see what looks like a vacuum port on the front of the throttle body - hmm...

The picture from the mystery year B18C1 is from this excellent thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid...-swap-2976738/

Next is a picture of my throttle body, w/ vacuum port out front, then a picture of my evap purge solenoid. I also found a picture of a throttle body that looks very similar to mine from FF Squad, which is labeled as an OBD-II as it does not have FITV, and does have vacuum port up top labeled for the charcoal canister.

The last picture of interest of interest may be the root of all my problems. I took a picture of the connector for my evap purge - you can see a green and white wire plus a red w/ maybe yellow wire. All the evap purge solenoids I see in the 3 different FSMs have Yel/Blk and either Red, or Red/Yel wires. Perhaps the swap shop wired me wrong from the very beginning?

94 Civic Si

Part of my confusion lies in the fact that the hose ID for the purge solenoid and the actual purge seem opposite between the Civic charcoal can and the GSR purge solenoid.

I think the next steps that I will need to do in order to fix this is find a '96 Integra FSM, and then when I have the engine back in and running I need to go through the troubleshooting tree to make sure I have vacuum at the TB port, and that the solenoid opens when it is supposed to, and if need be, that the 2-way valve at the tank is functional. If I have to I guess I can get hose adapters/reducers to get the vacuum lines hooked up properly.

Wish me luck, or if you have any experience here, please chime in.

wxman94ej1

FIRST THINGS FIRST- go back to post # 61 in this thread (picture #2 in that post). The picture you posted in post # 96 has the connector incorrectly labeled. If you look at the photo you posted in post # 61, you can see that the colored wires going to the purge solenoid are the correct color and the IAT correctly has the green/red combo. I think you have the connector in post # 96 mis-labeled as EVAP. It should be labeled IAT since that's the way it was hooked up before you pulled the manifold. So- wiring isn't your issue I don't think.

I think it would be helpful if you posted another picture of your intake manifold showing all the possible vacuum connections on it. We see your throttle body- just one nipple on there, and no FITV, but I am wondering how many connections the actual manifold has and where they are.

I don't have a lot of experience with OBD-II or Integra motors, but I can try to help as best I can. Did you also take any pictures of that vacuum control box thing under the manifold and the connections to it?

One other note- I'm not sure (again- not SURE) it matters whether the purge valve is one style vs. another- it's simply a solenoid that opens and closes to allow the charcoal canister (or whatever it's hooked up to) to receive vacuum. So when studying the FSM diagram, I would ignore whether yours looks like the picture- just remember it should function the same as whatever is shown in the picture. The key of course, is getting it plumbed right with everything else.

I think ultimately you're going to end up with something similar to what's shown in the first diagram in post #94.

94 Civic Si

Damn - you're a straight cash homie! Thanks for keeping an eye on me, I guess I am not as organized as I had hoped. This pic captures it even better, you are right, I have my labels wrong, that is the Intake Air Temp connector. And I have to do something about those crappy splices...

94 Civic Si

It may not matter what style purge solenoid I have, but I cannot discount the difference in tubing size between the OBD-I and -II. The OBD-I solenoid uses really tiny lines, and I could see that being used just to open the charcoal can's diaphragm via hose #7. The "correct" solenoid for my '96 engine has much bigger lines, I think bigger than the ported vacuum port on front of the throttle body. Is it possible that the vapors from the can pass through the solenoid? I kind of doubt the engineers would route a volatile vapor through an electrical device? But why the big change in hose size?

And I agree with you, pulling out the intake and throttle body and taking a thorough inventory of the ports makes sense. That will have to wait for the weekend though. And probably wait until after I swap steering racks. I got word that my reman rack came in, so I can pick it up after work! $150 core charge - I want to get the old back to the dealer ASAP!