problem with poor mans R
#1
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problem with poor mans R
ok the motor setup is b18c1 bottum with ITR crank, rods, pistons, mated to a b16 head with ITR cams, has AEBS intake manifold, STR throttle body, injen intake, and ITR 4-1 header, Chrome chipped p28 ecu. So my motor is only running on 3 cylinders, 2, 3, and 4. First we'll start with the new parts list. All parts are OEM
-New Distributer
-New coil
-New rotor
-New cap
-New wires
-New plugs
-New headgasket
-New injector seals
-New cam Seals
-New timing belt
-New fuel filter
-New fuel Line
-New fuel Pump
-NO check engine lights, 210 compression across the board, fuel pressure at 39 psi at the fuel filter, Timing is dead on. Has fuel, has spark, trans ground, vc ground, and thermostat ground have good connections
So I start the motor, I can unplug the injector connector for injector 2, and the motor will bog down, then plug it back in. I can unplug injector 3 and it will bog down, then plug it back in. I can unplug inector 4 and it will bog down, and plug it back in and comes back to normal. If I unplug injector 1, the motor doesnt bog down, or change idle or change anything. I can leave it unplugged all day long. But if i do that for 2, 3, or 4..the motor will bog down and want to die. Hince then it would only be on 2 cylinders. So I swapped out the injector 1 with injector 2, cause i knew 2 was working, and tried again. This time, the same thing would happen, 2, 3, and 4 would fire...but still not 1. So this elimiates it being a false injector. So then I have all 4 injectors plugged up, I swap the clips from 1 and 2, since i knew 2 was firing. Same thing, 1 is still not firing, while number 2 cylinder is firing off of the number 1 injector clip. SO this elimates wiring probelms. Now im lost. Im sure this is very confusing to everyone, but i hope someone can help me out. I dont know what to do next. Fuel rail is NOT clogged, it is getting fuel to each injector( cause each time I would pull one out, fuel would come out)
HELP ME
-New Distributer
-New coil
-New rotor
-New cap
-New wires
-New plugs
-New headgasket
-New injector seals
-New cam Seals
-New timing belt
-New fuel filter
-New fuel Line
-New fuel Pump
-NO check engine lights, 210 compression across the board, fuel pressure at 39 psi at the fuel filter, Timing is dead on. Has fuel, has spark, trans ground, vc ground, and thermostat ground have good connections
So I start the motor, I can unplug the injector connector for injector 2, and the motor will bog down, then plug it back in. I can unplug injector 3 and it will bog down, then plug it back in. I can unplug inector 4 and it will bog down, and plug it back in and comes back to normal. If I unplug injector 1, the motor doesnt bog down, or change idle or change anything. I can leave it unplugged all day long. But if i do that for 2, 3, or 4..the motor will bog down and want to die. Hince then it would only be on 2 cylinders. So I swapped out the injector 1 with injector 2, cause i knew 2 was working, and tried again. This time, the same thing would happen, 2, 3, and 4 would fire...but still not 1. So this elimiates it being a false injector. So then I have all 4 injectors plugged up, I swap the clips from 1 and 2, since i knew 2 was firing. Same thing, 1 is still not firing, while number 2 cylinder is firing off of the number 1 injector clip. SO this elimates wiring probelms. Now im lost. Im sure this is very confusing to everyone, but i hope someone can help me out. I dont know what to do next. Fuel rail is NOT clogged, it is getting fuel to each injector( cause each time I would pull one out, fuel would come out)
HELP ME
#2
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Damn it andy this **** has been ongoing forever! This is do crazy! I was gonna suggest grounds but that doesn't seem to be the issue at all, as you have them all connected. I want to see what everyone else's ideas are.
#3
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Re: (ZacCarter)
my car has been out for like 4 months, I fix a problem....then i get another one a few days later...its really starting to make me mad....I'm starting to think about getting out of the honda game. Can someone please help me
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make sure your injectors are in the correct order
and isnt stock fuel pressure 44psi?
turn that up too!
mine is at like 60psi
did it run like this on my chipped ecu?
and isnt stock fuel pressure 44psi?
turn that up too!
mine is at like 60psi
did it run like this on my chipped ecu?
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Re: (ZaCH AttaCK......s0n!)
yeah, it ran the same with your ECU zack, I've tried about 5 different ones now...the injectors are all good. I can swap them out in all different places and each one will fire, except for cylinder 1, but its doesnt matter what injector is sitting in that spot. I've rotated them all...and each will fire in all the slots except for 1. I dont get it
#7
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Re: (GreyDel)
what you need to do is get a "pulse light" pretty much its a little light that goes from the injector harness to the injector.. your probably not getting a pulse to the injector in that case you might want to check your "resistor box" (im having a mind expletive right now i cant think of the name) and see where the problem is .. i didnt care to read but if your obd2 just hook up a scanner and see what the problem is.. other wise thats what your problem is.. i can pretty much give you %100 on that its not getting any pulse
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#8
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Re: (95_acc0rd)
wire that injector strait to the ecu and see what happens...
andy i've seen that harness...its no kodak moment...
i bet its a faulty ground somewhere since i think you did a small tuck...
just an idea...
if this doesn't work...and you've tried a differnt ecu....i just don't know
sounds like the problem i was just having...my solution...sold the car when it was running good....
andy i've seen that harness...its no kodak moment...
i bet its a faulty ground somewhere since i think you did a small tuck...
just an idea...
if this doesn't work...and you've tried a differnt ecu....i just don't know
sounds like the problem i was just having...my solution...sold the car when it was running good....
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Re: (SlammedDC2)
the wiring is good....the injectors are good. I can take the injector out of cylinder 1 which is not working and put it in cylinder 2 and it works just fine. While I can take the injector from cylinder 2 that was working and put it in cylinder 1 and it wont work. I can take the injector clip from cylinder one and plug it up to cylinder 2 and it makes cylinder 2 work, but not one. I've tried about 5 different ecu's. Chrome chipped p28, Pherable.net p28, s300 p28, P2P, P2E, Pr4 and P72....its all the same with each one. And I un-tucked everything cause its pissing me off. All grounds are good, unless im missing one. I'll takes pics after work
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Re: (MR_FIX_IT)
which ground on the block? I have the one from the valve cover to the car, then have the one from the harness to the thremostat. and the the trans to the frame rail. Any other one im missing?
-Also, does anyone think having the car is safe mode would cause it not to fire. I do not have a speedo, so the car is in safe mode. Or anything think my VAFC2 has anything to do with it.
-Also, does anyone think having the car is safe mode would cause it not to fire. I do not have a speedo, so the car is in safe mode. Or anything think my VAFC2 has anything to do with it.
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Re: (GreyDel)
Vafc2 is out...everything is still the same...still not firing one cylinder 1..I re-checked the grounds, pulled each spark plug and tested it for spark, and it still doesnt work
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Re: (drtysohc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drtysohc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it has to be injector wiring.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its not, volt meter reads from the connector on the injector clip to the ecu, plus if you would have read. I said i could take the plug from cylinder 1 and plug it into cylinder 2 and it would work.
its not, volt meter reads from the connector on the injector clip to the ecu, plus if you would have read. I said i could take the plug from cylinder 1 and plug it into cylinder 2 and it would work.
#19
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Re: (GreyDel)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GreyDel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> plus if you would have read. I said i could take the plug from cylinder 1 and plug it into cylinder 2 and it would work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i don't think the guy was implying it was the plug itself...but the whole wiring job..
plus plugging injector clip #1 into cylinder #2 should if i'm correct make that thing run even weirder..considering it doesn't run in a 1 2 firing order...
Get out an ohm meter and test to see if voltage is coming out of the plug
also is this car being ran off obd1 convert or an obd2 ecu...
if its converted...you know i say this everytime...i don't like those conversion harness's...
if its not that....and your running obd2...check crank sensors....check timing with gun/and belt....
fuel pressure has to be very precise...any drop ethier way ***** with **** so make sure its on the money too...
i don't know what else it could be...grounds seem okay...
i think you should work on getting it CEL free as welll
GL man...ttyl
i don't think the guy was implying it was the plug itself...but the whole wiring job..
plus plugging injector clip #1 into cylinder #2 should if i'm correct make that thing run even weirder..considering it doesn't run in a 1 2 firing order...
Get out an ohm meter and test to see if voltage is coming out of the plug
also is this car being ran off obd1 convert or an obd2 ecu...
if its converted...you know i say this everytime...i don't like those conversion harness's...
if its not that....and your running obd2...check crank sensors....check timing with gun/and belt....
fuel pressure has to be very precise...any drop ethier way ***** with **** so make sure its on the money too...
i don't know what else it could be...grounds seem okay...
i think you should work on getting it CEL free as welll
GL man...ttyl
#20
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Re: (CW-R hatchback)
Thanks for the input Jim, this is a tough one and im sure you'd love to see it. lol, Im starting to hate these things. Anyways, The car doesnt have any cells...even tho i dont have a speed sensor, it doesnt throw the code for it. I got out the volt meter and tested all the wires from each injector clip back to the ecu, they all read fine. Also, i do have a obd2 ecu, but i do not have a Crank fluk sensor...so it would throw a code for that, but would still the the same thing with the injectors. Also, fuel pressure seems good. ANyone think it could be a fauly main realy? It is only a few months old tho.
#21
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Re: (GreyDel)
double check and recheck if its got spark.. compression (do dry and wet), leakdown.. trace all your wiring from that injector volts and ohms .. its either mechanical (probably not) or electrical (im 100% certin it is) trace those wire... check the wires at the ecu for the injector.. seriously its in your wireing check that just start at one end and work your way to the other, just checkin wires voltage resistance everything.. its in your electrical
#22
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (95_acc0rd)
what i'm most whacked out about it is
10 differnt ecu's..
most of which are obd2...no code for crank fluc...no code for speedo...no codes at all...this car should be spitting codes out of the freakin *******...
New EX engine harness might appear to be in your new future...which sux...
10 differnt ecu's..
most of which are obd2...no code for crank fluc...no code for speedo...no codes at all...this car should be spitting codes out of the freakin *******...
New EX engine harness might appear to be in your new future...which sux...
#23
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Re: (CW-R hatchback)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CW-R hatchback »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i'm most whacked out about it is
10 differnt ecu's..
most of which are obd2...no code for crank fluc...no code for speedo...no codes at all...this car should be spitting codes out of the freakin *******...
New EX engine harness might appear to be in your new future...which sux...</TD></TR></TABLE>New harness ftw.
10 differnt ecu's..
most of which are obd2...no code for crank fluc...no code for speedo...no codes at all...this car should be spitting codes out of the freakin *******...
New EX engine harness might appear to be in your new future...which sux...</TD></TR></TABLE>New harness ftw.
#24
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (CW-R hatchback)
you said it has 39 psi...isn't that a lil low?
i could be wrong...i might go outside and get out my helms....
if you have voltage going to the injector...no problem...and the injector in fact works...something else is cauing it to sound like its not firing...
when i had the sol remember i had this exact same problem...me and ryne thought it might of been a faulty valve/or spring...only reason being is i put alot of hard miles on that motor...i had fuel/spark and all that other garbage...but i think my fuel pressure was a lil higher then 39. I thought it might of been after i got rid of the car was a faulty CFK or something to that sort...
i could be wrong...i might go outside and get out my helms....
if you have voltage going to the injector...no problem...and the injector in fact works...something else is cauing it to sound like its not firing...
when i had the sol remember i had this exact same problem...me and ryne thought it might of been a faulty valve/or spring...only reason being is i put alot of hard miles on that motor...i had fuel/spark and all that other garbage...but i think my fuel pressure was a lil higher then 39. I thought it might of been after i got rid of the car was a faulty CFK or something to that sort...
#25
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Re: (GreyDel)
well its late and i didnt read everyones reply but here is my advice. get a test light, put the ground to a ground and check the injector for power. easy enough. now to check the pulse with the test light is easy too. your lookin for the ground to pulse. so take the ground end of the test light and put it to the positive of the battery giving a power sorce to the light. then all it needs is the ground to work. so prob the ground wire of the injector with the other end of the test light. it should blink on and off really fast. indicating that the ground is pulsing like normal. if it stays off then its obviously not working.
the only other thing i can think of is a stuck valve or a hole in the piston. check and see if the oil in the motor is ok or if it look thin and smells like gas. and pull the valve cover off and turn the engine over. see if all the valve are moving properly.
the only other thing i can think of is a stuck valve or a hole in the piston. check and see if the oil in the motor is ok or if it look thin and smells like gas. and pull the valve cover off and turn the engine over. see if all the valve are moving properly.