overflow tank spitting out coolant
07-31-2007, 05:48 AM
#26
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Thermostat is brand new and the car already runs cooler than it was before. I think the old one wasn't opening properly.
Battery and alternator are fine, that I'm aware of.
Overflow tank was also changed this weekend.
Any thaughts in regards to the water pump? Could a faulty water pump cause that? Would, if possible, installing the wrong pump cause that?
Battery and alternator are fine, that I'm aware of.
Overflow tank was also changed this weekend.
Any thaughts in regards to the water pump? Could a faulty water pump cause that? Would, if possible, installing the wrong pump cause that?
07-31-2007, 06:18 AM
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Re: overflow tank spitting out coolant (blaze_125)
Here is something else to look at pull the rad cap off start the car bring it up to operating temp until the Tstat opens if the coolant if fizzing like soda then your head gasket is the problem. With what you have replaced if you have no leaks, and have bleed the air out of the system the only thing left that could be causing your problem is a blown head gasket. FYI the coolant in these engines surrounds the piston sleeves when the head gasket starts to leak the compression from the cylinder is forced through the gasket, into the coolant. This increases in pressure opens the radiator cap and coolant flows into the overflow bottle. Low coolant and the car will start to overheat. Over heat the engine a few times and things warp. Depending on how bad your leak is you might be able to drive it for some time before complete failure. But once that happens it goes from cheep easy fix to expensive and not so easy.
07-31-2007, 06:41 AM
#28
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Re: overflow tank spitting out coolant (instructor74)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have the oem radiator I have seen a lot off them crack on the plastic tank and spray coolant out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This happened to me. When I popped my hood, there was coolant spatter every-*******-where. And since everything was already wet, I had to completely dry it before I saw the radiator was actually cracked at the plastic/metal seam. Before that, I thought my cap was bad because the spatter was centered right over it.
This happened to me. When I popped my hood, there was coolant spatter every-*******-where. And since everything was already wet, I had to completely dry it before I saw the radiator was actually cracked at the plastic/metal seam. Before that, I thought my cap was bad because the spatter was centered right over it.
07-31-2007, 07:02 AM
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Re: overflow tank spitting out coolant (instructor74)
somebody she knows keeps telling her it's a faulty or clogged radiator, but I find that really hard to beleive.
I guess I'll give the headgasket a shot. Do we have a "how to" somewhere?
I guess I'll give the headgasket a shot. Do we have a "how to" somewhere?
08-03-2007, 12:50 PM
#31
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Re: overflow tank spitting out coolant (blaze_125)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaze_125 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">somebody she knows keeps telling her it's a faulty or clogged radiator, but I find that really hard to beleive.
I guess I'll give the headgasket a shot. Do we have a "how to" somewhere?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It would be wise to determine the problem before you start throwing parts at it, so that you don't spend a load on parts and that not be your problem, have you done a compression test?
I guess I'll give the headgasket a shot. Do we have a "how to" somewhere?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It would be wise to determine the problem before you start throwing parts at it, so that you don't spend a load on parts and that not be your problem, have you done a compression test?
08-13-2007, 08:23 AM
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Re: overflow tank spitting out coolant (slowcivic2k)
I'm having the exact same problem so if you do find out its the head gasket let me know because I've done everything like changed thermostat, rad cap, burped and bled the system and still coolant all going to the overflow and rad is emptying.
If you find that it is the head gasket let me know.
If you find that it is the head gasket let me know.
08-18-2007, 11:25 AM
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Alright, so I've done the compression test and here are the results.
From left to right.
No 1. 190
No 2. 180
No 3. 170
No 4. 190
When I took the sparkplugs out I noticed all of them were soaked in oil.
The tip appeared to be dry, but the emanel was soaked and even had baked oil on it.
From left to right.
No 1. 190
No 2. 180
No 3. 170
No 4. 190
When I took the sparkplugs out I noticed all of them were soaked in oil.
The tip appeared to be dry, but the emanel was soaked and even had baked oil on it.
08-18-2007, 02:23 PM
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Re: (blaze_125)
fouled plugs sounds like a ring problem... however your compression test does not indicate this. and what that has to do with coolant ending up in the overflow is a new one on me 
08-19-2007, 06:41 AM
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Re: (TooManyTickets)
oil on the plugs isn't linked to the coolant problem.
I think the seal in the valve cover is shot and lets oil get in the sparkplug hole.
I still have no clue what my coolant problem is. The headgasket seems to be good.
Modified by blaze_125 at 8:00 AM 8/19/2007
Modified by blaze_125 at 5:48 PM 8/19/2007
I think the seal in the valve cover is shot and lets oil get in the sparkplug hole.
I still have no clue what my coolant problem is. The headgasket seems to be good.
Modified by blaze_125 at 8:00 AM 8/19/2007
Modified by blaze_125 at 5:48 PM 8/19/2007
08-19-2007, 04:48 PM
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so we changed the rad today and so far so good. I got a bit of overflow in tank but nothing outrageous. It's probably the actual overflow that got there so I'm not too woried. I guess I'll see tomorrow how everything turns out.
For the spark plugs, I'll get a hold of some spark plug well gaskets and I'm guessing that will do it. The ones currently in the valve cover look like they have seen better days.
For the spark plugs, I'll get a hold of some spark plug well gaskets and I'm guessing that will do it. The ones currently in the valve cover look like they have seen better days.
08-28-2007, 09:37 AM
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well... it seems like the problem is back.
so far we have changed the thermostat, the rad, the rad cap, and the upper rad hose.
The temp gauge still doesn't go higher than normal operating temp range, and the overflow still "overflows" lol
It's as if the rad would fill the overflow tank when hot and not suck it back in when cold. And I have excessive pressure in the system. The system "depressurizes" when I take off the rad cap after the car has been sitting for hours.
I don't get it.
so far we have changed the thermostat, the rad, the rad cap, and the upper rad hose.
The temp gauge still doesn't go higher than normal operating temp range, and the overflow still "overflows" lol
It's as if the rad would fill the overflow tank when hot and not suck it back in when cold. And I have excessive pressure in the system. The system "depressurizes" when I take off the rad cap after the car has been sitting for hours.
I don't get it.
08-28-2007, 09:49 AM
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Re: (blaze_125)
For the love of god you have been given the answer IT IS THE HEAD GASKET. You have replaced almost every part on the car instead of having it tested for exhaust gasses in the coolant and look at you #3 compression test its 20psi low and #2 is 10psi low.I would be willing to bet that your leak is between the #2and #3 cylinder.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FYI the coolant in these engines surrounds the piston sleeves when the head gasket starts to leak the compression from the cylinder is forced through the gasket, into the coolant. This increases in pressure opens the radiator cap and coolant flows into the overflow bottle. Low coolant and the car will start to overheat. Over heat the engine a few times and things warp. Depending on how bad your leak is you might be able to drive it for some time before complete failure. But once that happens it goes from cheep easy fix to expensive and not so easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FYI the coolant in these engines surrounds the piston sleeves when the head gasket starts to leak the compression from the cylinder is forced through the gasket, into the coolant. This increases in pressure opens the radiator cap and coolant flows into the overflow bottle. Low coolant and the car will start to overheat. Over heat the engine a few times and things warp. Depending on how bad your leak is you might be able to drive it for some time before complete failure. But once that happens it goes from cheep easy fix to expensive and not so easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
08-28-2007, 09:51 AM
#40
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i think its pretty obvious its the head gasket, i was always told that if there's bubbling in the overflow tank its because exhaust is leaking through the gasket.
Like someone said a head gasket can leak either way.
i was reading a troubleshooting site yesterday and they said the same thing, i'll try to find it for you.
found it
"
When the gasket goes, typically the first thing that happens is that combustion chamber gases are pumped into the water jacket. You will see this as bubbles in the expansion reservoir. This will quickly lead to low coolant level in the engine, and overheating at idle, even if the fan comes on, since the water pump can't move the coolant around properly any more."
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq...nofan
Like someone said a head gasket can leak either way.
i was reading a troubleshooting site yesterday and they said the same thing, i'll try to find it for you.
found it
"
When the gasket goes, typically the first thing that happens is that combustion chamber gases are pumped into the water jacket. You will see this as bubbles in the expansion reservoir. This will quickly lead to low coolant level in the engine, and overheating at idle, even if the fan comes on, since the water pump can't move the coolant around properly any more."
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq...nofan
08-28-2007, 10:32 AM
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Re: (instructor74)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look at you #3 compression test its 20psi low and #2 is 10psi low.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was under the impression my compression results were decent.
Anyone know of a url that has a "how to" for the headgasket?
I was under the impression my compression results were decent.
Anyone know of a url that has a "how to" for the headgasket?
08-28-2007, 10:57 AM
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Re: (blaze_125)
Sorry I did a search and didn't see anything. You might have better luck try the search function at the top. The best thing to do is get yourself a good shop manual. It is not to hard of a job. The biggest thing is having the head checked and machined if needed. You will need and assortment of hand tools.
1) metric sockets
2) box end wrench's metric
3) Screw drivers philips and flat
4) A good torque wrench
5) Shop manual
6) jack and jack stand
7) Place to work on the car for a few days. This will take the weekend + if you need to have the head machined.
Supplies
1) shop rags
2) oil
3) coolant
4) head gasket
5) valve cover gasket
6) gasket sealant
If you don't have the basics then you might be better off taking it to a shop to have it done.
Edit hear is a run down of what you have to do.
1st disconnect battery, disconnect all sensors, coolant lines and vacuum lines going to the head. you might want to mark all the electrical connections as to where they go.
2) NO SMOKING remove the fuel line going to the fuel rail (might want to wrap this in something and tuck it out of the way.
3) Remove the valve cove and upper timing belt cover. Set engine to TDC timing marks. loosen timing belt tensioner bolt. slide belt off cam gear and hang to prevent it from coming off other gears ( i run a wire to the hood and tie it up)
4) Remove exhaust manifold/ header, head bolts, bolts under intake manifold (you do not have to take the intake off use it as a handle to lift)
5) slowly lift head off look for any wiring, vacuum lines you might have missed.
6) do not set head down on concrete
7) check head for warp machine if needed.
8) clean any coolant/ oil from the cylinders.
9) clean block of any old gasket material make sure to drain any coolant out of the block.
10) reassemble is the rev of removal you will need a shop manual for torque specks, timing tensioner adj ect. This is just meant to give you an idea of what you will be getting into
Modified by instructor74 at 12:18 PM 8/28/2007
1) metric sockets
2) box end wrench's metric
3) Screw drivers philips and flat
4) A good torque wrench
5) Shop manual
6) jack and jack stand
7) Place to work on the car for a few days. This will take the weekend + if you need to have the head machined.
Supplies
1) shop rags
2) oil
3) coolant
4) head gasket
5) valve cover gasket
6) gasket sealant
If you don't have the basics then you might be better off taking it to a shop to have it done.
Edit hear is a run down of what you have to do.
1st disconnect battery, disconnect all sensors, coolant lines and vacuum lines going to the head. you might want to mark all the electrical connections as to where they go.
2) NO SMOKING remove the fuel line going to the fuel rail (might want to wrap this in something and tuck it out of the way.
3) Remove the valve cove and upper timing belt cover. Set engine to TDC timing marks. loosen timing belt tensioner bolt. slide belt off cam gear and hang to prevent it from coming off other gears ( i run a wire to the hood and tie it up)
4) Remove exhaust manifold/ header, head bolts, bolts under intake manifold (you do not have to take the intake off use it as a handle to lift)
5) slowly lift head off look for any wiring, vacuum lines you might have missed.
6) do not set head down on concrete
7) check head for warp machine if needed.
8) clean any coolant/ oil from the cylinders.
9) clean block of any old gasket material make sure to drain any coolant out of the block.
10) reassemble is the rev of removal you will need a shop manual for torque specks, timing tensioner adj ect. This is just meant to give you an idea of what you will be getting into
Modified by instructor74 at 12:18 PM 8/28/2007
08-28-2007, 11:07 AM
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Re: (instructor74)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry I did a search and didn't see anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same here, couldn't find anything useful.
I do have all the tools, all I'm missing is instructions but as you suggested it might be a good idea to get my-self a shop manual.
Is one better than the other as far as manuals are concerned?
I think my local store carries Haynes
Same here, couldn't find anything useful.
I do have all the tools, all I'm missing is instructions but as you suggested it might be a good idea to get my-self a shop manual.
Is one better than the other as far as manuals are concerned?
I think my local store carries Haynes
08-28-2007, 11:21 AM
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Re: (blaze_125)
What was your compression for each cylinder?
Have you got your coolant system pressure tested for leaks?
I had a similar problem and after all the tests it turned out I had a leak by the thermostat area. My headgasket was fine.
Have you got your coolant system pressure tested for leaks?
I had a similar problem and after all the tests it turned out I had a leak by the thermostat area. My headgasket was fine.
08-28-2007, 11:43 AM
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Re: (EL Vap133)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What was your compression for each cylinder?</TD></TR></TABLE>
From left to right.
No 1. 190
No 2. 180
No 3. 170
No 4. 190
From left to right.
No 1. 190
No 2. 180
No 3. 170
No 4. 190
08-28-2007, 11:48 AM
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Re: (EL Vap133)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What was your compression for each cylinder?
Have you got your coolant system pressure tested for leaks?
I had a similar problem and after all the tests it turned out I had a leak by the thermostat area. My headgasket was fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
He is also building pressure in his coolant system, has replaced, rad t stat, hoses,rad cap ect. I would say 20 psi low on #3 and pushing coolant into the overflow with pressure build up point to the head gasket and not a leak around the tsat housing.
Have you got your coolant system pressure tested for leaks?
I had a similar problem and after all the tests it turned out I had a leak by the thermostat area. My headgasket was fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
He is also building pressure in his coolant system, has replaced, rad t stat, hoses,rad cap ect. I would say 20 psi low on #3 and pushing coolant into the overflow with pressure build up point to the head gasket and not a leak around the tsat housing.
08-28-2007, 11:50 AM
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Re: (blaze_125)
i have been working on honda for the last 10 years and everytime i have seen one blow coolant out of the overflow it has been one of 2 things either the cap went bad or a headgasket issue it could be a small hairline crack in the gasket that causes pressure to go straight into the coolant around the cylinders causing it to blow it out
Modified by hybridmath at 4:11 PM 8/28/2007
Modified by hybridmath at 4:11 PM 8/28/2007
08-28-2007, 11:55 AM
#49
Re: (hybridmath)
I just had my HG replaced over the weekend and before there was coolant overflowing into the tank and it would overheat every so often. My mechanic found small crack that was allowing exhaust gases to escape and heat up my coolant to no end. Replaced it and everything was fine. Before I was barely blowing any noticeable white smoke, but it did have some trouble starting up sometimes when it was cold.
Replace the HG and call it a day
Replace the HG and call it a day
08-28-2007, 12:05 PM
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Re: (95ProjectEJ1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Replace the HG and call it a day </TD></TR></TABLE>
I really didn't want to open the thing up so I changed everything around hoping I could "perma-bandaid" it
Headgasket is my next step. They're not too expensive anyway.
And someone pointed me to a "how to". Mine is a single cam, but the procedure should be very similar.
http://www.jdmlyfestyle.com/ho...t.htm
I really didn't want to open the thing up so I changed everything around hoping I could "perma-bandaid" it
Headgasket is my next step. They're not too expensive anyway.
And someone pointed me to a "how to". Mine is a single cam, but the procedure should be very similar.
http://www.jdmlyfestyle.com/ho...t.htm