hermtm2

Hello.

I made a stupid mistake at the last night. When the motor oil changed, the drain plug was over-tightened by me. All threads of the pan was broken. I tried to put a little bigger one but it still leaks. I think the pan need to be replaced. My question is that are the 96~00 civic' pans the same? Because I found the used oil pan from 96 civic.

** I don't what kind of engine is in my car, so here is VIN.
2000 Civic EX 2dr. auto. 1HGEJ8240YL******.

thumper64

Look up the part numbers on some site like hondapartscheap.com and see if they match. It's going to come down to what engine each car has, if anything. Look under "cylinder block- oil pan".

Davus

Some are different. D16Y7 motor for instance holds 3.8 quarts some reason, and its oil drain plug slants downward.

hondamark35

your car has a D16Y8. these had cast aluminum oil pans, as compared to the D16Y7 which had a stamped steel pan.

(as a note: when you post your VIN in a public forum, leave off the last 6 digits for security sake. there is no information in that, it's just a serial number. theives may take advantage though...)

you can get a used oil pan from any 96-00 EX, which will be the same as yours. it uses an unusual O-ring type gasket... don't neglect to replace this. you'll also want a new washer and maybe drainplug.. i would go to honda for these, personally.

divinition

it's only like $0.30 from the dealership. cheap replacement..

hermtm2

What I need are a used oil pan from EX model, new gasket, and washer? Am I on the right track? The drain plug is fine (I think).

Thanks.

heritage36

Get the drainplug anyways and a washer if you are going to do it, do it right.

hondamark35

yeah, you've gotta look close. the threads, over time, will deform towards the end of the bolt/plug. this is worsened by overtightening and not replacing the washer. so even if you can't see it yet, the threads aren't like new. the first time you snug up the old plug in the new pan, the threads are deformed to match.

B18C5-EH2

You'll also want to buy a tube of Hondabond and use a THIN bead of it on the oilpan seating surface where it meets the block. On the standard gasket type pans this is only necessary in a few areas, but with this recessed o-ring type "gasket" it seals best if a thing layer of Hondabond is smeared around the entire seating surface where the pan meets the block.

hermtm2

Do I have to buy the Hondabond? I have a universial high-temp silcon which used for a valve cover gesket and AT pan.

Thanks.

hondamark35

gray RTV works just fine, just not red or black. makes you look like a amateur...

B18C5-EH2

Yes please do yourself and anyone who might ever have to pull that pan off one day a favor, and just get the Hondabond. It's not expensive. It was engineered to do exactly what you'd be using it for. There has never, nor will ever be a generic RVT sealant that will ever be as good as Hondabond IMO.

hermtm2

I will buy it.

Thanks.

Aztlanbeto21

just go to napa and order the pan and gasket, the get things in next day so wont take a week to ship, gonna have to loosen the downpipe from the intake manifold and remove the engine stiffeners (if u have any) and remove the flywheel cover, then just start unbolting the 19 or so bolts and screws. install is reverse.

honda.lioness

That Hondabond is one powerful glue. I used it for the first time last year for an oil pan change. Wear gloves or wipe it off your hands quickly. Buy it at a motorcycle shop, and it will be half or so of what the auto dealers charge. (Thanks to the many Honda-Techers who posted this tip over the years. I found it searching the archives.)

hermtm2

The price of the hondabond HT is $10 different between Hondadealer($17,50) and Motorcycle shop($7.70). It was amazing information. Thanks a lot.

hermtm2

How hard to replace the oil pan? I haven't any experience with a civic oil pan even though the AT fluid pan was done from 96 maxima.

honda.lioness

The only really tough parts might be

-- Removing exhaust piping. Get out the PB Blaster, soak nuts and bolts now, drive around so the bolts are heated up and expand, sucking that PB Blaster in, repeat (but not under a hot car). Have good fitting sockets and long breaker bars or pipe extensions handy. Never met an exhaust bolt I could not free on my Civics (including the one driven up north in salt and snow). Suspension bolts are another story.

-- Not going gangbusters tightening down the little oil pan bolts/nuts w/10 mm heads. Follow the shop manual sequence for tightening them, and use a low range torque wrench. My Harbor Freight $20 in-lb torque wrench has been fine for this job.

-- Not going gangbusters with the Hondabond. Follow the shop manual instructions to the letter and you will be fine.

http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...s/CivicManual/ is likely not an exact match for your Civic but should get you far.

hermtm2

It is really good explanation. I got find the shop manual though.

Thanks.

heritage36

You don't need to torque anything on an oil pan, the experts don't. Hondabond is great **** too, go with that and not that cheap garbage RTV, you will be glad you did. Civic oil pans are gravy to do too, so it should go fine.

teal_dx

I love hondabond so much, I use it on domestics too. differential covers too

B18C5-EH2

I used it to seal up a 3-piece wheel over a year ago after the actual sealant suggested by a local wheel shop failed miserably.

Hondabond is f'ing magic, literally.