Koko4

My buddy and I just did a compression test, after taking out all of the spark plugs. The numbers were all good - between 175-185 for all cylinders. We put some anti-seize on the spark plugs, then screwed them back in. While I was there, I took off the air cleaner and sprayed some throttle body cleaner onto the butterfly / throttle body.

Got in the car, tried to turn it over. Turns over but doesn't start. Pulled and checked a spark plug - dry (so I'm assuming it wasn't flooded). Then grounded a spark plug while I tried to crank the car - no spark.

Took the throttle body cleaner and gave a squirt down the throttle body while trying to turn it over - it didn't even sputter.

**When we were doing the compression test (with ALL spark plugs out), the engine stumbled and "turned on" for a split second. My buddy (who was reading the gauge in front of the car) said the engine bucked when it happened. As soon as I heard it try to turn on, I immediately stopped cranking.

What should I do from here? I checked the IGN fuse and it is fine (the 40a). I am about to look in the service manual for a procedure to test the CKP. I am supposed to drive this thing to Kansas tomorrow and was just trying to give it a clean bill of health with the compression test....now I might be f&$&#d.

And no trouble codes / check engine light.

Any and all help is appreciated!

OptimisticWay

OptimisticWay

tony_2018

You didn't pull the fuse, so you either flooded the cylinders or your distributor has a bad icm/ignitor.

Former User

Yep, the coil may be blown.

NerfGunner420

110% on rons responce. i did this to my dads honda accord. i know i know its an accord not civic. either way we did a compression test I dumbass forgot to remove the fuse for ecu or just unplug the distributor well either way i flooded the cylinders gave me results that weren't consistent good thing i didn't bend any valves or anything. and i blew out the coil......... sad but i did urgh good thing he was my dad lmao i just swapped mine into his and had him take me to the junkyard and put one in my pocket lmao!!!!

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Add another 110% for me, I've done it once before I knew better.

Koko4

Fixed it! It was a fried ignition coil... I ended up replacing the coil, distributor cap, and rotor for $100. Tested the coil with the multimeter and it was bad, and the cap and rotor were worn / had small pieces of metal where they had worn each other down. So does this mean that my ignition could could have been "on its way out" and I just sped up the process by dry-firing it so much? Or does doing that put a massive strain on the system and almost inevitably blow the coil? I was trying to justify it by saying its so much better to happen now than on my trip...

So for future reference, if I want to so that again I should remove the ECM fuse or unplug the distributor?

As one guy mentioned above, he had compression results all over the place and was "lucky to have not bent a valve or something" - so did I risk damaging my engine (internally) by doing it the way I did? My compression test numbers were good - 175 -185, so that should indicate I'm alright, right?

You guys are awesome by the way. I had it fixed within the hour. $100 lesson learned, but it probably could have used that new cap and rotor soon anyway. Seems to be idling smoother, and they both have limited lifetime warranties!

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

As the guys above said, your igniter/coil is blown in the distributor.

Next time, make sure you unplug the distributor before you run your test.

EDIT: Just read your last post lol... but yes make sure you unplug your distributor next time.

shotoutacc0rd

The engine internals wont get damaged doing that.

Koko4

Thank you shotoutacc0rd. Wanted to be sure.

I checked my radiator fluid yesterday while I was doing all of this (looked at the overflow tank) and it was full. Didn't know if the engine was too hot to pop off the radiator cap, so I STARTED to take it off and heard the "hiss" of hot coolant. Screwed the cap back on. Today while I was driving, I decided to pull over and eat my lunch in a parking lot, while the car idled and the AC was on. I looked down and the temp gauge was at 3/4ths. I got out, checked to make sure the fan was running (it was) and that both radiator hoses were hot (they are). Water pump / TB has been replaced within the last 20k miles. Since this happened literally the day after almost unscrewing the radiator cap, is this more than likely just an air pocket in the system? Can air get in just by cracking it open for a second like that?!

shotoutacc0rd

Air could get in and pressure could be released if the seal was opened enough to hear hissing. You should get a proper sealing funnel, fill it half way with mixed anti-freeze, and run the vehicle until both hoses are hot to bleed the cooling system. While you're doing that, watch the funnel for a stream of bubbles which would be indicative of a bad head gasket. Then shut it down and put the cap back on.

I also highly recommend doing another compression check (remember what you learned, pull the ECU fuse) and see if the head gasket has now failed. You could do that or a leak down test, which will be more accurate in telling you if the combustion chamber has any leakage.

Koko4

I will be sure and do that when I get home. It'll be 2 weeks until I can work on it (work trip) but I will bleed the cooling system while checking for bubbles out of the radiator (and push the throttle to see if any bubbles shoot out too), then re-run the compression test with the distributor AND ECU fuse unhooked, then do a leak down test with the compression tester hose and my air compressor. Only thing about a leakdown test, though - my buddy was saying you have to pull the valve cover and loosen the rocker screws? Any truth to that? If that's the case, I wouldn't want to mess with that..I have not had the pleasure of adjusting / messing with those bad boys yet.. I've read over the procedure and am not 100% on it.

So maybe just the compression test / bleeding the system. Or even just bleeding the system and if no violent bubbles emerge while pushing the gas I should be good? This happened a few months ago in Chicago and I had assumed it was because I was using a non-OEM radiator cap. Replaced the cap, and bled the system, and the problem hadn't been back...until now.