SrT4u2nV

thanks for looking.

i have a 96 dx hatch and swapped in an obd1 lsvtec motor. currently the car won't start so i'm trying to find out what code it's throwing. my check engine light is on, and i found the black and brown connector plug and shorted it. so when i turn my car on, the cel comes on and stays on, and when the plug is shorted, the srs light flashes, but the cel still just stays on. i have an si cluster if that matters at all. and also, i am replacing the steering wheel as well, so currently there is no driver airbag hooked up. so i'm not sure if the cel turns on because there's no airbag (never heard of it doing that but not 100% sure).

ANY SUGGESTION APPRECIATED

thanks

SrT4u2nV

checked again, and the srs light doesn't blink either, so now i just have a cel that stays on. is there any way to check if the connector is working properly?

gsrhatch2356

If you tell me what ecu you are running I might be able to get the pin outs of the ecu and you can short it there. cause you have an obd2 car I am sure that the dash harness is probally the same which it dosent come with the 2 pin connector only obd2 connector but like I said give me a ecu and I can do some research on all data for you

SrT4u2nV

pms replied. please help.

it's a chipped p28, got the chip from phearable.net

tried again and it's all the same. and i have tried taking out the ecu plugs to reset it, in case people are wondering.

so cel is originally on and stays on when i click the car on 2.

and when i jump the connector in the obd2 car and turn it to 2, the cel still stays on, and the srs light flashes.

BUMP IT

squarepusher

you may be not jumping it correct . try swapping a different ECU and see if it still gives the same result ... if it doesn't then you are jumping correctly, and the ECU is malfunctioning.


http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view/Library/CEL

Max Kling

Sounds like your jumping the SRS reset thing for when the air bags deploy.

Im not sure but thats what it sounds like.

Frozen E

If you're jumping out a black/brown connector you better stop whatever you're doing. You're shorting something out that's not supposed to be shorted. Or maybe it is. Either way it's not the right connector. The one you're looking for is by the ECU located on the passenger side kick panel. The connector might be tucked up inside the wiring harness or even up by the blower. You're looking for a GREY connector with 2 wires on it.

SrT4u2nV

gonna try to borrow someones ecu to see if that's the fix.

and whn i said black/brown connector, i meant it's a grey connector with a black wire and a brown wire coming out of it. sorry for the confusion i should worded it better.

and other suggestions in the meantime appreciated!!!!

bump

EL Vap133

It is the blue plug, not brown.

SrT4u2nV

yea, i think it is blue actaully. either way it's the only connector in the passanger wheel well. it has a black wire and a brown wire, and was oriinally plugged into a green holder. i've seen pics and i'm def jumping what peopole say is the right connector (i even saw pics) so i'm sure.


anyway, just tried an ls ecu from a 93 teg. same exact problem.

so please help me out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SrT4u2nV

bump

SrT4u2nV

BUMP PLEASE

SrT4u2nV

NITE BUMP

JDM-97CX

You might not have a code stored. If it didn't run the car never completed a drive cycle and nothing was tested. When the key is in the on position the cel should be on, it doesn't mean you have a dtc stored it just means that your car isn't running.

This is mechanics 101 stuff. You were able to do a swap so I'm sure you can figure this out.

Does the car crank?
Yes- got to next step
No- Check for power to the starter. If you have power to the starter and it does not engage you need a starter.

Do you have spark?
Yes- go to next step
No- Try to determine where the break in power occurred in the ignition circuit.

Do you have fuel?
Yes- go to next step
No- I know it sounds elementary but do you have gas in the car and is it good? Check to make sure that the fuel pump operates. Still no fuel? Check to see if fuel reaches the fuel rail.

Do you have compression?
Yes- If you made it this far and have all of the above then your car should start. It is a possibility that you flooded it. Hold the accelerator to the floor and try to start the car again. With all of the above the car should start.
No- Here comes the fun part, you will have to determine the cause for the loss of compression. The best way is to perform a cylinder leakage test (charging each individual cylinder with compressed air, usually done with a leak down tester but can be done with some compression testers, and watch to see if it drops pressure. If it does listen for where it goes.

SrT4u2nV

bump! checking it all today. any other ideas while i'm out there appreciated

postman

problem 1 could be an obd1 motor in an obd2 chassis. just a bad idea from the beginning in my opinion. no offense or anything

SrT4u2nV

bump for some helpful comments

postman

check spark, fuel, aas long as you have those it should at least turn over. try compression and leakdown

Frozen E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by postman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">problem 1 could be an obd1 motor in an obd2 chassis. just a bad idea from the beginning in my opinion. no offense or anything</TD></TR></TABLE>

What difference does it make what chassis the motor sits in? He could have the thing strapped into a Wal Mart shopping cart and it would run if it has the right electronics to run it.
That's probably his problem. Something's not plugged in right. Firing order on the distributor perhaps. Common mistake during swaps.

SrT4u2nV

ok, turns over, has fuel, has compression, no spark

there isn't and spark/power coming out of the dist(where it goes to the plugs).

how can i test the distributer further?
i've read about testing it and have done all i can find, please throw up some suggestions.

-the three resisters in the distributer all check out fine.
-the black/yellow wire from the harness gets power with the car on.
-the yel/green wire from the harness gets power with the car turning over.

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!

SrT4u2nV

bump for the nite and for some suggestions for tomorrow!
thanks!

SrT4u2nV

bump

SrT4u2nV

i tried to get another dist to test but no ones got one!!! so i'm gonna have to order one from pep boys will post results as soon as i can. any other suggestions til then, bump it up!

SrT4u2nV

distributer is not the problem. threw it in my ls and it did produce spark (couldn't set timing to run it though obviously) but this shows the dist shouldn't be the problem.

and ideas where to trace back to see why it won't spark in my ek?

checked all fuses and grounds, so that's not it....

still throwing a cel, that doesn't flash when jumped at it's blue connector, so any thoughts on that would work too.

gonna have to take it to a special electrical shop to get rid of this headache unless i can get some other ideas of what to look for. please help ht, or point me in the right direction. thanks

SrT4u2nV

bump last day of the year