CX-Adam

A coworker sent me this and I had to laugh so I figured I'd share it.


I wouldn't disagree with that first statement. Thanks for the kind words.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I didn't lay it down consistent. I did, however, follow the instructions on the can. I'll chalk it up to operator error. I've checked your thread. It's a nice car! Good luck.

CX-Adam

My dad's next project:

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Awesome build thread, I love me some good body work forsure. The two different oil pumps is ones JDM ones USDM. USDM has sensors off the crank JDM has them in the dizzy. (not sure if any one answered the question)

CX-Adam

Thanks!

Thanks for the helpful reply! I thought I had resolved the oil pump issue but now I'm wondering... I didn't initially think it had anything to do with JDM vs USDM. I pretty sure my engine is a USDM GSR (It's a B18C1 with a P72 Head). I thought it had more to do with the production year of the engine. I thought I had a 1998 engine so I bought a replacement pump for a 1998. As it turns out, it may be an older engine (1992). But, because of your response, I'm now reading that the B18C1 was produced between 1994 and 2001. So... yeah. All I know is I installed the new 1998 oil pump and bought a matching cover. I didn't have a Crank Sensor before so I didn't care about having the extra, unused, bolt holes in the pump housing with the new pump. Resolution posts are here: Post 212, Post 213, Post 214. posts have links to DelRay Acura for verification.

Maybe it's a non-vtec oil pump. Additional Oil Pump info: http://www.team-integra.net/forum/14...mparisons.html. Who really knows with these second hand engines anyways?

94EG8

'94 - '95 B18C1 engines will have a different oil pump than '96 - '01. The earlier pumps lack provisions for the CKF as you discovered, and they also require a different lower timing cover and crank gear. All JDM engines will have the earlier OBD1 style pump regardless of year since they didn't have a CKF sensor. There was no '92 (or '93 for that matter) B18C1 ('92 - '93 GS-Rs came with a B17A1)

ej6sir-t

iTrader: (1)

Yeah b series pump is a b series pump pretty much from what I know most older p.n's have been superceeded to one part number for each obd. some parts supply locations still have older parts prior the superceeded versions.

CX-Adam

Bump from page 26...

I'm REALLY close to giving up.

I noticed this while installing the oil pressure sensor.





Looks like I'm going to have to remove EVERYTHING and bring my block to a shop to have it welded. This is getting ******* stupid.

CX-Adam

P.S.

i think this guys had the same problem: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/jb-weld-cracked-block-2881341/

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

Dam dude your just not haveing a good run...
you shouldent have to fully strip it down to get it done
just remove the oil cooler to allow enough room to get welded

also have to make sure all other openings are pluged so nothing
goes in them from getting it welded

CX-Adam

It's not looking good. I've called four places and no one will touch this repair.

sleepyaccord96

how did it happen?! and what bolt goes there...as in what bolts to that hole? (dont flame me, i am a h series guy, and in the process of putting a b20 in a 96 so i am learning more about b series specifics)

CX-Adam

It's actually for the oil pressure sensor.

sleepyaccord96

oh ****....

wowsers...

at a loss of words for you man.... remove the bitch and have someone weld it...i have seen much worse be fixable so i am sure a skilled welder with the right equipment could do it...

street93eg

I have welded aluminum transmission cases before and it takes a lot of preparation to make sure the weld doesn't get screwed. For that location I don't think it would be as hard as a transmission at all. The only thing you would have to do is grind out the crack to the absolute end or drill the end point then reweld the joint. Preheating will help and cleaning any chemical that might be there to ensure a good weld. If anything grind it off completely and weld a new plug there.

I would do it because It wouldn't be that difficult with the proper planning.

EastCoastRust

solid job, gotta love a clean engine bay

CX-Adam

Thanks for the words of encouragement. I could really use them right now.

When you say "grind out the crack to the absolute end" do you mean grind off from the flat face of the casting towards the center of the block? In other words, axially along the center line of the treads? Or, does that mean to grind towards the threads (perpendicular to the thread axis)?

It doesn't look like I can get a normal drill bit into that spot. A burr'd drill bit might work but, since the crack goes through to the threads, I don't know how much that'll help. It sounds like I'll end up with a massive chunk removed instead of a sliver of a crack.

Side note, either One6 or SujaOne recommended JB Weld... My thoughts were "No." Anyone else want to weigh in with their experience?

CX-Adam

The problem is no one wants to attempt. My guess is liability. No one wants to try for fear of it not working and getting flamed on message boards...

street93eg

Does the spot leak when the engine is running?

Since it isn't a load bearing point on the engine or a spot that would absorb alot of vibration i don't believe the crack is something that will get bigger over time. It almost looks like it cracked when the threaded the sleave into the hole so it has probably been there for some time.

Before you get it welded try this;

Permatex® Hi-Temp Metal Aluminum Compound
A single use, 2-part casting repair compound for use on aluminum parts with temperatures up to 800˚F (427˚C). Developed specifically to repair pin holes, warps and cracks in aluminum castings and molds. Suggested applications: Aluminum parts such as cylinder heads and intake manifolds.

Hopefully that will be more then enough to fix the issue and if not then my first suggestion is still available.

CX-Adam

I don't know. The engine's been a part for a long time. I was doing the finally assembly to drop it back in when I noticed the crack.

Yeah, the sleeve may be a repair in of itself from the previous owner. The sensor has a pipe thread so the base diameter of the threads increase the more it's threaded in.

hmmmm... I may just do that. Thanks.

street93eg

After thinking about it again for a bit i did come to another possiblity.

The possible reason for the crack forming where it did was because the thermal expansion rates of the Aluminum vs the Stainless steel threads are different. The aluminum expands faster then the Steel which puts more stress on it and causes the little crack you see to form on the exterior of the metal as most metals will fail at the weakest possible point.

sleepyaccord96

i wouldnt put any jb or any type of epoxy, it will only make for a bigger mess to fix for whoever is going to end up welding it up... just my .02

CX-Adam

No good news to report. Shoulda gotten a k swap....

sleepyaccord96

or an H22 lol

street93eg

Well if you don't feel the aluminum compound will work then just ask a weld shop to do the work and if your not to concerned just tell them not to worry about a guarantee on the work. Even if they just put a surface weld in place with 4043 filler it would prevent the crack from getting bigger since it is softer metal than the cast block.

GOOCH-JDM-ITR

I feel you on the rant a page back. Looks like we went through a lot of the same build pains at nearly identical times. I really feel for you now with this block issue and hope you the best with remedying it. I finally got mine on the road only to have overheating problems and a possible coolant leak somewhere in the mix. Who said JRSC were easy?: )