CX-Adam

Well, other than trying to find time to do the things I listed above, I might be putting this project on hold for another week or so.

My DD is in need of some attention. I'm pretty sure something is going bad in the transmission and I think I need new front brake pads and a rotor resurfacing. My muffler is also completely shot so I need a new one of those. It's annoyingly and embarrassingly loud right now. I feel ashamed to drive in my own neighborhood with how loud it is (too bad most people don't feel this way).

Luckily, when I did my B-series swap for this car (the one that's the focus of this build thread), I gave my old D15B8 to a friend. Well, he's not using it anymore either. So, I may go over to his house and steal the transmission, clutch assembly, flywheel, and throwout bearing. I know those are in ok condition and I can swap whatever I need on to my D16Y7 to keep it going while I figure out what's wrong with my stock transmission. Also, I'm pretty sure the 5th gen. civic S20 transmissions have longer gearing than the 6th gen. S40 transmissions [revised per 94EG's response here]so I might see some gas mileage improvement. Something about having an A000 stamp instead of... I dunno... it doesn't matter either. They're the econo non-buildable transmissions. I just need something to get around in.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

thats always the way

cars are like woman
play with the wife to much the misstress gets jelly n breaks down

CX-Adam

So, I tried the 14mm rear LCA bolt in a vice grip but I couldn't get enough torque to loosen the plugs.


Then I tried welding a nut to the 14mm bolt. That way I could get my long 3/8" ratchet on it. Well, the threads on the bolt were so messed up that I couldn't thread the nut down to the shank. I was at the hardware store trying to find a nut that worked but, nothing. So, we welded it at the end of the bolt. As you can imagine, that didn't work. It sheared in torsion and I couldn't get it to stay straight in the plug.


So then I tried having two nuts welded together. Well, the new "tool" remained straight in the plug but also failed in torsion...


So, I'm going to go on a bike ride and try and figure out what to do. I've got several options still. We'll see.

CX-Adam

:D

Drbabyboycc

Great work brother I wish I had friends that are deeply into bringing a car back to life. Great work

CX-Adam

HOLY QUOTED POST BATMAN. H-T USERS AREN'T EDITING THEIR RESPONSES!

Thanks for the kind words, dude. Where do you live? I'm sure there's someone.

On a continuing note, I wasn't surprised when this didn't work.


But... I found a 14mm Allen key at Ace Hardware! And, this DID work!


4 foot pipe!


Is this RED LOCTITE?!?!?!?! Because, if it is, that explains a lot.

CX-Adam

Plugs removed!


Test fit with the oil cooler, sensor, and -10AN fitting. It looks like it'll work! I need to get the JRSC on now.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

1 giant leap for allen
1 giant loss for the plug

lol glad to see you finaly got them out

94EG8

All 5th gen trannys are stamped S20, all 6th gen are stamped S40 (except '99 -
'00 Si) The gearing depends on the trim level. But yes the 5th gen CX/VX transmission is geared higher than any other '92 - '00 Civic transmission (other than maybe '96 - '00 HX, I can't remember if it's longer, shorter, or about the same) Please note that longer gearing doesn't always translate into better mileage, it has a lot more to do with throttle position than engine RPM.

Turbo Stewie

Nice work, I'm kinda jealous too hahah

CX-Adam

Thanks man. Revised my previous post.

Yup yup. I know not driving like an a$$-hat will play a major role. I don't so, it's cool. 90% of my driving is high-way so being able to maintain a lower RPM for the same throttle input is important.

CX-Adam

I knew a couple of people running the Boston Marathon today. Thankfully they're OK.

CX-Adam

I know a lot of people are dealing with problems that are a lot worse than mine today. What happened in Boston was incredibly unfortunate and I know I'm very lucky to be safe.

That being said, I'm SUPER pumped guys. This JRSC kit is a DREAM to install. Goes in like a hot knife through butter. Nothing easier. It certainly hasn't caused me to stop and say "well, that's f.u.c.k.e.d..." several times.

So, I need to either buy a vented valve cover or I need to find someone who can weld fittings onto mine. This back-of-block breather kit is the best money I ever wasted. I researched the living **** out of this, too. No one EVER says "I did the valve cover breather because, with a JRSC kit, the plugs aren't accessible." It's always "look at how pretty my vented valve cover is." So, I thought it was more of the same vain bullsh!t that's rampant on this, and every other car forum. Boy was I wrong (actually, I'm probably still right).

On to pics because I know no one will read this **** anyways.







I'll regret coming off as a total b!tch tomorrow and probably delete this post but for now, just let me vent.

Update 4/18/2013:
Angled Fitting Won't Work


Fitting


Pointed Down (1 of 2): Nope


Pointed Down (2 of 2): Nope


Angled: Nope

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

I READ IT
YOU SOOKY LAR LAR



ok the problem with the alt i didnt see comming but you are on a diffrent motor to me
and im almost there with the rebuild to see for myself

the kink will not make a diffrence as its just a little flow to cool the oil ..dont panic
you should be able to rotate the heater metal tube a little to fix the kink
if it wont move you need to bend the tab at the thermostate end thats stopping if from rotating

canadaek

or just cut a little off the hose

CX-Adam

?!?! Can I get a translator in here?! I'm guessing that means "cry baby"?

Yeah, I'm actually not too worried about it. I think this hose is actually for the heater core. It's definitely not one of the oil cooler hoses.

I'd have to grind a little off the thermostat housing tab holder. The tab on the metal tube is too short to bend. But, like I said, I'm not going to bother fixing this.

I'm not 100% sure what you're talking about. If you're talking about cutting the kinked hose a little, that wouldn't do anything. It would only shorten the hose and the kink wouldn't go away. Now, if you're talking about cutting off some of the metal barb that's attached to the water pipe that the hose slides over, that might actually help. It'd allow the hose to bend sooner and at a less aggressive angle. I'll keep that in mind but, I probably won't do anything.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Get a 45* or 90* AN fitting?

CX-Adam

Thanks Marc.

The 90* fittings that came with the kit definitely will not work. The hose needs a pretty generous bend radius. If I pointed the fitting up, the supercharger is in the way. Towards the time belt, the alternator is in the way. Towards the transmission, the oil filter is in the way. Down, the intermediate shaft is in the way.

I thought about trying a 45*. Maybe I will. But I won't hold my breath.

I COULD probably swap the AN fittings out for fittings that have hose barbs for a smaller diameter hose. The barb would, likely, not protrude as far out of the block and would allow the hose to begin bending sooner. Also, smaller hose wouldn't need as large of a bend radius (assuming the walls are also thinner). It won't look as "nice" but it'll be functional which is what's really important.

CX-Adam

Angled fitting won't work. Updated post 288.

Anyways, I picked up some paint stripper for my valve cover and wrinkle paint. I think I'll strip it and have fittings welded on.

Yesidriveacivic

Everybody doing a JRSC seems to complain about everything being so tight.
If you haven't looked at it, Corksil's almost done with his in the EF forum, he complains a lot also...
It's still awesome though

Nipon

i read the topic completely and i just can say AWESOME work dude. i hope i can do the same with my Ek3. i want to see that EG finished :D

CX-Adam

Two Minor Updates:

First: Wiring
Do you guys like how I ghetto rigged my wiring last year?

Pretty bad, right? I couldn't get to the main plug due to the evaporator core and fan motor being in the way so I routed the wires through so old tubing for the A/C since it hadn't functioned and had been, mostly, removed.

Explanation


After removing the glove box:


Inside the evaporator core box:


Evaporator Core and Fan Motor removed:


I couldn't think of a way to integrate the wiring into the harness without breaking all the clips that hold it into place. Also, there wasn't much space in the plug. So, I punctured the boot with a punch and routed with wires through it.


First wire through:


All three wires through:




Re-soldered and taped up:


Also, I sealed the puncture with silicone.

Second: Valve Cover

Stripped:


First coat of VHT wrinkle paint. Also, notice the two -10AN fittings that are taped up.


I don't like the way the wrinkle paint turned out so I'm not going to post up a picture of it. I'll try and add another coat of paint to see if it helps but I may have to strip it again and reapply. It's now been 24 hours since the first three coats were applied and some areas didn't wrinkle at all.

CX-Adam

Wow, it's been less than two days since my last post and I'm already pushed back to page 4. Build threads where the OP only changes their wheels and drop the car an inch get more attention than this... and this is a full body restoration, suspension swap, brakes swap, transmission re-build, engine re-build, and forced induction build thread. Nothing new but, come on... :smh:

Anyways, ordered a new Type R exhaust cam. I don't feel comfortable putting the used one in. There's minor scoring on the bearing surfaces and the lobes don't look too great either. If you're interested in a pair of Type R cams for cheap, let me know. I think the intake cam is totally f'd but I'm no expert.

I'm going to see what another coat of VHT Wrinkle Paint will do to the valve cover tonight. If it still looks awful tomorrow, I'll re-strip it and try again.

All I need now is a base map for my chipped ECU and an exhaust and I'll have all the parts I need. I'll search the JRSC thread tonight about the basemap. There's several shops in my area. ILL Garage and Profunction are on my way home from work. I'm still a few weeks out from dropping the engine in due to other commitments but, maybe I'll drop my ECU off with one of them to have them load up a basemap. I'll need it to start the engine and check for leaks and to limp the car to a tuner. I'll probably have the tuner weld together an exhaust for me as well.

here's a picture featuring a coat hanger and a half empty bag of oil dry:

canadaek

maybe more stickers or hellaflush crap would get more attention. just kidding props on a great build keep up the good work

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

Lookin good man

I've had OK success with the VHT wrinkle paint, the biggest thing I've noticed that helped me was to get good even coating going across the valve cover, same height, same stroke every time; but who knows!

Otherwise, I'm going to be doing similar to what you are/have done with my 92 CX, inspiration!