Low Beam Not Working (Aftermarket Headlamp)
#1
Low Beam Not Working (Aftermarket Headlamp)
My EJ1's driver's side low beam will not work...
I have TYC aftermarket headlamps which converted the single H4 bulb into two H1 bulbs, one for each beam. Both high beams work fine and the passenger side low beam is fine, as well.
I checked the fuse, tried three new bulbs, and then checked the voltage to the low beam and it receives all 12 volts along the entire harness.
Could it be the headlamp housing improperly grounding it (has anyone had this experience)?
Could there still be a short somewhere in the circuit?
Extra:
I also just replaced the bulb six weeks ago when the old one blew
My high beams are HIDs
I have TYC aftermarket headlamps which converted the single H4 bulb into two H1 bulbs, one for each beam. Both high beams work fine and the passenger side low beam is fine, as well.
I checked the fuse, tried three new bulbs, and then checked the voltage to the low beam and it receives all 12 volts along the entire harness.
Could it be the headlamp housing improperly grounding it (has anyone had this experience)?
Could there still be a short somewhere in the circuit?
Extra:
I also just replaced the bulb six weeks ago when the old one blew
My high beams are HIDs
#3
#5
#6
Re: Low Beam Not Working (Aftermarket Headlamp)
For the stock headlight bulb receptacle, the ground wires are black. It should be the same for your aftermarket set up. For the low beam receptacle that doesn't work, simply check for continuity to body ground from that specific black wire.
The high and low beam black ground wires on each side ultimately merge into one wire that grounds on the chassis. This common chassis connection must be fine given that the high beam works.
The high and low beam black ground wires on each side ultimately merge into one wire that grounds on the chassis. This common chassis connection must be fine given that the high beam works.
#7
Re: Low Beam Not Working (Aftermarket Headlamp)
For the stock headlight bulb receptacle, the ground wires are black. It should be the same for your aftermarket set up. For the low beam receptacle that doesn't work, simply check for continuity to body ground from that specific black wire.
The high and low beam black ground wires on each side ultimately merge into one wire that grounds on the chassis. This common chassis connection must be fine given that the high beam works.
The high and low beam black ground wires on each side ultimately merge into one wire that grounds on the chassis. This common chassis connection must be fine given that the high beam works.
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#8
Re: Low Beam Not Working (Aftermarket Headlamp)
You showed that voltage from the fuse reaches the bulb receptacle. You now need to check that the black ground wire for the bad receptacle provides ground for the voltage. Without ground the bulb will not work. Check whether the black wire provides ground using a multimeter. At the bulb receptacle, use the multimeter to check whether the black wire has continuity to body ground. If not, there's your problem.
#9
Re: Low Beam Not Working (Aftermarket Headlamp)
You showed that voltage from the fuse reaches the bulb receptacle. You now need to check that the black ground wire for the bad receptacle provides ground for the voltage. Without ground the bulb will not work. Check whether the black wire provides ground using a multimeter. At the bulb receptacle, use the multimeter to check whether the black wire has continuity to body ground. If not, there's your problem.
I noticed that the voltage reading on the multimeter seemed to faulter a little so I reset the multimeter and started getting nothing the second time. I checked the original h4 connector and got twelve volts then as I went to plug the male end of the connector that comes from the headlights I noticed the tooth that connects to the low beam's positive looked as though it had been burnt.
I'm guessing this is my problem as the two ground wires for the high and low beams connect together on the same tooth while the positives have there own teeth (three all together for the h4 connector)
Sorry if that explanation is all over the place...
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