inane

just wondering if its possible that when i turn the high beam on if i can have the low beam stay on at the same time? i already know that if i hold the lever halfway in, it turns the high beams on and leaves the low beams on... but once i pull it back the rest of the way and it clicks, it turns the low beams off...

just wanting improved visibility for when i need it

TekSI

i believe the reason they don't allow the bulb to do that is because running both filaments may be too hot. the best way to get more visibilty i can suggest is get a nice set of fogs

JDMFreak

im with that guy, i bet there is a way but you will have melted headlight in no time

E dwinbon G

get some hids!

Paprika

Not meaning to hi-jack this thread but I am forever seeing these auxilary (fog) light kits at auto parts stores and places like walmart for like $20 - $30... are these ok or what? Any specific kind/brand better than others?

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by inane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i already know that if i hold the lever halfway in, it turns the high beams on and leaves the low beams on</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I've been doing for a while now. I have to drive a 4-mile stretch home from work every night in my '00 Civic, and it's through the woods where the deer like to congregate. I hit a deer there once so I am paranoid; I ride the entire way with both beams on because each beam alone is pretty weak. With the low beams on, lighting is dim and I can't see anything far away. With the high beams on, lighting is still dim and I can't see anything up close.

Horrible headlight design, if you ask me. I prefer my '91 CRX's dual-bulb setup that leaves the lows lit when you turn on the highs.

I've also been considering rewiring so that the low beams remain on all the time; I've thought about doing it for a while but never got around to doing the research. Since I rarely have to leave the high beams on for an extended period, I don't think I'll have a problem with overheating . . . I haven't had any problems yet with the manual override.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paprika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not meaning to hi-jack this thread but I am forever seeing these auxilary (fog) light kits at auto parts stores and places like walmart for like $20 - $30... are these ok or what? Any specific kind/brand better than others?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know about the cheapie kits, but on my '93 Civic I had a set of FET XLD driving/fog lamps (here or here) and they were unbelievably BRIGHT. Lit up the surrounding area like it was daytime . . . I confused the hell out of many a nocturnal animal with those things. Cost almost $250 though good thing I didn't buy them

Knightmare69

Yeah, there is a way to do it but it involves wiring and relays. My friend is working on it for me now but he hasn't had time to install it yet. We're doin it because my other friend has projectors and HID's on her EK and when she high beams retards on the road it shuts off and on the HID's which I don't like (Fearing that it will break something) so I asked him to come up with a solution.

inane

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TekSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe the reason they don't allow the bulb to do that is because running both filaments may be too hot. the best way to get more visibilty i can suggest is get a nice set of fogs</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought of fogs before but i wanted to wait until i can do the 99-00 style front end conversion on my 98... since the fog lights on a 98 go on the inside and it looks pretty lame... the 99-00 style is nice...

i never thought about the heat... although usually i never leave the high beams on for a long time... its just for certain spots/stretches of road that i need the extra visibility... ive been doing it by holding it down halfway for over a year now as needed and i havent had any problems as far as melting or anything...

just asking about it now because my gfs been driving me around lately in my car and she hates the visibility and she doesnt want to hold the lever halfway...

TekSI

if it still works i'd say heat isn't an issue. the only way i can think to make this work is that you can use the high beam wire from the switch to activate an independent relay hooked up to the lows(also have stock wiring on lows). this way, the stock relay will not send power to lows, but the high beam signal will activate another relay hooked up to lows, so they will both be on.

inane

isnt there just some trick you can do with the lever? the lever just touches some contact points? (i never actually looked how it works)... but if you hold it halfway in both are on... so coudlnt i just hack at the lever some how so when it clicks, its still touching the contact that turns the high beams on?

DC-4-Drew

I melted the actual switch where the arm connects to the steering column in an izusu amigo doing this...expensive and a pain in the ***.......

TekSI

i assume that when the click happens, there is a mechanism that switches from low contact to high contact, thus not allowing both at the same time. there is no easy way to modify that to work, as it is a very small area to work in. one idea i can give, depending on your knowledge of electronics, is to bridge a diode from the high signal to the low, having the cathode end attached to the low side(don't attempt w/o basic knowledge of diodes).