wk9k

Okay so I get the part where you have to turn the camshaft pulley to TDC first and align the marks and the crank will also be a TDC. Then you remove the crankshaft pulley. Then remove the timing belt (making sure that the cam and crank are at TDC. Now, after the timing belt is removed, in this picture its kinda confusing me a little it sounds as though the cam and the crank can be turned independently for the installation of the belt if one or the other is moved out of TDC after the removal of the belt. I thought that once you removed the belt, they must not be turned independently. Please correct me if im wrong I just dont want to mess this up im planning on doing this project this coming weekend, thanks in advance.

Former User

A little bit of rotation is fine, but don't rotate either the cam or crank very much after the belt is removed.

JDM_teh_WIN!!

If you set the motor to TDC and remove the belt it should stay at TDC. You need to check the alignment of the cam gear and crank pulley before installing the timing belt. Yes they can be rotated independently without the timing belt. That is why you check to see that the crank and camshaft (gear) is at TDC before installing the new timing belt.

wk9k

Yea I was looking at this diy 96-00 civic timing belt thread (http://www.civicforums.com/forums/23...t-96-00-a.html and on step 11 he says

"11. Don't worry if you're past TDC, we will take care of that later. What you DON'T want to do is to move the camshaft gear or crankshaft gear when the timing belt is OFF. So make damned sure you don't rotate them accidentally. Remove the pulley bolt and pulley. When you remove the pulley, a rectangular key will pop out. (see pic) Don't lose this! You cannot put back the pulley without it."

Ok so they can be rotated but just very little. Im guessing when he says dont rotate them accidentally, he meant not a lot.

Just another question that in the event that you did rotate one or both quite a bit how would you get the timing I guess you would call it back in order?

Thanks for the replies.

JDM_teh_WIN!!

You would just rotate the crank clockwise until it is back at TDC. Same with the cam (gear). Honestly, unless you are trying to rotate the crank or cam with something like a socket wrench they aren't going to move.

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

As ronj said don't rotate either one to much with the belt off but a little is fine. I'm sure you can hit valves on pistons rotating it to much with the belt off

wk9k

Okay thats good to know just wanted to double check. I just got 201,000 miles on this car and it runs good. I had the belt changed at 130,000 miles by a mechanic who I wont let touch my car again as he kinda does a rush job but hes somewhat decent... im doing everything my own from now and I enjoy it. Well thanks again for the replies.

timmytimm3

You should replace the tensioner while you're at it. Mine was binding a bit with 209k miles on it.

Cheap insurance.

wk9k

Will change the tensioner while im at it too, it comes with the Gates kit, timing belt, cam and crank seals, and tensioner for $96.00. I also have oil leaking right near the timing belt area, its prolly the crank seal.