97Civic4dr

Hey guys, you've all inspired me to perform this swap myself, this and the engine management thread on dseries are by far the most informative threads on the net pertaining to d15b 3stage. I'm in the later parts of install and have a few questions I can't seem to find solid answers. First of all I have 96 d15b 3stage w/ p2j 003 ecu, I have already reconditioned the motor completely and will be pairing it with z6 B000 trans w/ excedy stage 2 clutch and light weight 11 lb flywheel, level 0 ^350 hp axles, magnaflow 2.25" cat back, all going in a lowered Japan built 97 4dr lx w/ 15" enkeis. Sry guys had to tuner brag for a min, lol.

My questions are I replaced the intake mani with a d16y5 manual hx mani with 2 wire IACV and throttle body kept egr valve from d15b mani but as we all know USDM solenoid and egr are combined in one, I have looked at pictures or auto, cvt, and manual d15b and all jdm has egr solenoid as separate mounted on the back of the mani. I even tracked the part number down on epc data and it lists it for manual engine as well and cross references to USDM 96-00 hx w/cvt same part same everything. I plan to reuse egr valve from d15b but need to buy the separate solenoid correct? Also on USDM hx mani there are no two vacuum hoses on the back of the mani, I need to drill out those two holes and make it like d15b? for the hoses that connect from egr to solenoid, from solenoid to intake mani, then intake mani to evap on charcoal canister. I also need to change charcoal canisters to 92-95 that has 3 prong nipple or get d15b? Or can I still use 96-00 charcoal canister?

More questions to make throttle body like d15b I need to drill two tiny holes, and mount and elbow nipple for the hose that connects from throttle body to charcoal canister or can I just not need to drill the two holes or mount the hose? because USDM hx mani has hose that would normally run from the middle of the intake mani to the evap sensor mounted on fuel rail then to charcoal canister but d15b does not require this sensor and instead run the hose direct from throttle body to charcoal canister, the only difference I can see is mounting locations of hose unless d15b and the two small holes drilled in the throttle body affect anything, the hx nipple is just mounted farther down in the middle of the intake. also my car currently has cruise control I see it's also a nipple for a vacuum hose that connects to the back of the intake mani should I drill that as well to make for cruise control hose to hook up or should I not even try to use cruise control, is it even possible to use cruise control with this engine and ecu, is it a separate system like abs srs, if it's not possible I'll just leave it be but future dreams were to hook up abs and srs but if unable to with this setup then so be it.

Lastly, my wire harness was cut very short and all wiring is literally only a few inches on the tranny side, also even if I was to use it I would have to extend it a lot because of where the ecu mounts, vtec, egr, iat, has a 3 wire iacv, so to make everything easy I have decided to buy a complete 98 hx manual engine harness it's my understanding it is almost identical to d16y8 with two wires for IACV but with extra wires for egr and a 5 wire 02 sensor but my engine came with single wire 02 sensor and both male and female plugs so I will just be converting that. Am I correct in the assumption the USDM hx 96-00 obd2a harness is almost identical to 96-98 d15b 3 stage harness except for and two 5 wire 02 as opposed to one a single wire 02 and extra vtec, and egr solenoid wiring on jdm engines? I would like everything and wiring to be as close to spec as possible.

To clear everything up as well the USDM hex mani has been completely cleaned ported and polished and reconditioned with all new seals and gaskets for everything I just want to know before I start putting things together if everything in my assumptions are correct that this is what I need to do and these are the parts I need, if I've over looked anything please let me know and correct and misunderstanding I have. Its taken me almost 2 to find all these parts and figure all of this out.lol

danrs

iTrader: (1)

I looked at the HX manifold in the repair manual and It looked so different than the 3 stage.I used the 3 stage auto manifold and converted it to manual by tapping in a rear AICV and drilling the sideways passage .Then used a ex throttle body and added the nipple for the vacuum hose.Mine is exactly stock to the 3 stage repair manual now.It runs perfect.I put 30,000 miles on it already at work.If I had to do it again I would have used an EX wire harness and just ran the extra wires for the other stuff.I think it would be easier that way when using USDM 02 sensors to pass inspection once a year.The HX has the wires too short and the plug for the 5 wire one.I can't remember but other stuff was off on the hx harness too.

97Civic4dr

Thank you so much for the reply i thought this thread was dying ha ha The intake mani only differences are for the d15b the two nipples on the back for the egr solenoid the hx does not have these nipples I'll be adding them but the hx does have the nipple for the throttle body in the middle of the intake so I'm just going to run that hose to the charcoal canister as opposed the hose that normally goes from throttle body to charcoal canister I highly doubt there will be any difference but if there is I'll just do what you did and cap the nipple on the intake and modify the hx throttle body I have to fit the nipple. How did you get yours out of the d15b throttle body that sucker is in there? I thought about just getting a brass 45 degree elbow from aeroquip with thread on the side to tap it into the throttle body and then thread it in tight and the other end being barbed for the hose. What size drill bit did you use for the two tiny holes? it looks like on the d15b one of the tiny holes lines up with the idk round metal plate in the throttle body (butterfly) idk cant remember what it's called but I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. Also what tap did you use to convert your auto to manual. I would have done that in the first place but I'm really trying to get this thing together as fast as possible. So I just lazied out and went and got the hx stuff.

If I use the hx harness could I not just leave the primary and secondary O2 wires alone and simply splice the single wire into it before the plug so there will be a splice going to the single wire O2 to be used with jdm ecu and then when inspection comes just unplug single wire O2 and plug in both hx O2 sensors wrap the secondary in tin foil and then plug in a manual P2N hx ecu just to pass inspections? Is this possible at all it's just a thought? I don't think any cels would happen if this is possible but maybe the cel for secondary O2 will but if you only have two sensors out you still pass at least that's what my emission station guy said. Idk here's hoping lol.

I also thought about getting it retitled as a custom built or reconstructed but not sure if it's emissions exempt even after that I know if you get it titled as a hot rod or antique it is but it has to be pre 49 and or the car has to be 25 or 35 yrs old or older but it varies by state. It's just such bs I can't believe no one has made an adapter or something, software update, anything to make it where the us scanner can communicate with jdm ecu. Then again I've read on other threads that some do some don't but this was never confirmed ;(

civicman101

Hi 97Civic4dr,
let me welcome you here and warn you of addictive effects of this engine. i got one and am still doing adjustments but it does not mean that there is some wrong with this engine, its better then best, just need time and dedication. i am mid way just because of lack of time, nothing else, mine is JDM D15b 3 stage vtec, manual obd2b (P2j-J11). my car is missing canister container and i also have to link egr lines with IM. can some one help in simplified way like egr pipe ends where?

perepely

Hi! Everybody is speaking here about some US replacement like D16Y8. What is the reason for that? Are their gaskets interchangeable? Does anybody know part number for the native (JDM D15B, manual) intake manifold gasket? Throttle body? EGR sensor?

97Civic4dr

Intake manifold gasket same as USDM 96-00 civic ex PN 18115-P2A-003
Throttle body gasket same as USDM 96-00 civic ex PN 16176-P2J-004
EGR Vavle gasket same as USDM 96-00 civic hx PN 18715-PB2-000

I have all part numbers for this engine (at least all the ones I used to fully recondition the motor and for my swap). I was going to stat my own thread with pics of engine and parts receipts.

Now that I have helped you maybe you or someone else can help me, does this engine JDM D15B manual 3 stage vtec have a purge cut off solenoid that is ECM controlled or NOT? I have the EGR frequency solenoid or technically called the purge valve control solenoid, that goes from nipple on EGR to solenoid then through solenoid to intake mani from intake mani to charcoal canister? I have looked at numerous parts Europe and asian parts diagrams and it shows a purge cut solenoid in the throttle body diagram and also shows the egr frequency control solenoid. But it was my assumption that jdm engine DO NOT have the purge cut solenoid and only the egr frequency solenoid. here is a link to which I am referring for the throttle body # 15 in picture and the second link is for the control device (EGR frequency solenoid). # 5 in picture.

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda...block_03=15213

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda...block_03=15213

perepely

Thanks!
I also found the part # for intake manifold is this link http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...5-P2J-014.html
Price is really good but this company does not send and does not sell to Canada. I have no way to get except to ask somebody from US to give me a favor to resend it and pay by PayPal...

Regarding your question...

From the picture from darns (post from 03-19-2012) you can observe that the EGR valve control solenoid ( VALVE ASSY., FREQUENCY SOLENOID on your chart's link ) is attached to EGR valve (which sends some signal to ECM through its 3-wire connector: D9 pin ) and intake manifold, but... I don't know what so special about it (400$!! from your link's). My understanding electrically it has just +12v and ground, controlled by ECM (A7 pin) and hydraulically it just normally closed connection between two pipes, one of which goes to EGR valve and another to intake manifold. I don't see reason why any such valve could not be interchangeable with anything from any USDM ones. I've also seen from other diagrams that in manual transmission USDM engines this 2 devices are combined into just one. The last one has just one 5-wire connector providing this sensing-controlling signals to/from ECM. I don't know about purge cut solenoid. Is it this part #3 form your link? I know about EVAP purge cut solenoid which is connected to intake manifold and 3-way charcoal canister. And it is already exists in d15B7 automatic.

Koopah_99EJ4Dr

ikno this threads been dead for ah while now and im new this community but igot this obd2 d15b 3stage vtec swap for my 97 dx(d16y7) ek hatch here my problem igot the swap without ecu and have trouble finding it. well iwas recently laid off my job and dont got money to finish swap iwas wondering if its possible to run it without vtec wired up as if it were non v motor.?

danrs

iTrader: (1)

OK,I have 80K on my swap and I drive in 300 miles a day at work.I used a 1998 ex d16y8 ECU to pass inspection and it drove really well.Vtec kicks in real loud but I'm not sure it's safe its so loud.I thought it drove faster with the USDM ecu.You can run it without a CEL with the ex ECU.You gotta use both four wire O2 sensors and splice the Vtec wire into the Vtec pressure sensor wire on the wire harness so you don't get a code for vtec. The JDM motor has no Vtec pressure sensor and the EX ECU looks for it but splicing the wires fixes that issue.Not sure about running with a non vtec ecu.It will run but the Aicv wires are different.If you use this EX ECU on a 97 you can make it run without any codes and vtec works it's just louder (not sure why).No check engine light if you do it right.My car is a 98 hatch just like yours.

Koopah_99EJ4Dr

thanks for quick reply iplan on getting the p2j ecu but once iget another job and run across one for now iwould jus like car to run even if it dont pop v igot the swap out just replacing small stuff before idrop in belts cltuch etc anyways is your running like ah y8 then with out the 12v-16v mode right.? and did you also use y8 harness.?

danrs

iTrader: (1)

I wired mine with an HX harness since it has the egr stuff already.If I had to do over again I would have used an EX harness and just hooked up the egr and weird purge sensor the 3 stage has.Dealing with the HX harness was a pain cause the primary 02 has a bunch of extra wires for when I needed to hook up a EX ECU for inspection.I left my Vtec wired correctly for the 3 stage ecu.I just spliced EX ECU vtec wire with the EX vtec pressure wire to make in run right on the EX ECU.After you hook up two 4 wire o2 sensors it runs great with no CEL codes.Then when you switch back to the 3 stage ECU leave the vtec wires spliced because it wont affect the 3 stage ECU.All you gotta do then is run a single wire O2 and the 3 stage runs great.My 3 stage runs perfect with both econo mode and regular vtec .I also hooked up the econo light to my cruise control light on the dash guage.It turns green when in econo mode just like the real JDM car.If you notice the JDM cars econo light is were the cruise control light is on our USDM dash.

Koopah_99EJ4Dr

So you got the swap to run as if were hooked up to the p2j ecu by jus using and modifying the y8 ecu and hx harness.? but you recommend the y8 ecu and y8 harness so itll be less hassle right.? and iwould also like to set up the eco light with the cruise control

danrs

iTrader: (1)

Well I hooked it up to run on the p2j and thats how I run it.I also run it on the EX ECU just to pass inspection.It runs good on both ECUs.I just think an EX harness is better because of the correct o2 sensor wiring.See in Texas to pass all you need is no engine light and a scan tool readable ECU.The P2J isn't readable on a scan tool so I used the EX ecu.So once a year I gotta hook up the EX ECU and use the two four wire o 2 sensors.Then just splice the vtec wire to the vtec oil pressure wire and it passes.Then I go home and simply hook my P2j back up with a single single wire 02 sensor and I'm back to a stock 3 stage.The EX Ecu will simply ignore the EGR wires and the EGR control valve wires since there are no pins for it on the ECU.

Koopah_99EJ4Dr

Oooh isee ineed p2j ecu ill buy yours.?(: lol

danrs

iTrader: (1)

Well The P2p will work just drive it easy.I found out vtec sounds like turbo on the p2p because the motor is running on 12 valve mode from the start.Then regular vtec kicks around 5500 rpms with 16 valve wild cam mode and it's loud.So driving it easy I think your stuck in 12 valve mode on the p2p ecu if you don't rev the motor past 5000 rpms. Call David at www.jdmenginescorp.com 1315 Exchange Dr Richardson, TX 75081 (972) 234-2500. He sold me at P2J with my swap for $850 and It even had a cut wiring harness and ac compressor.He has good stuff.I have 80k miles on my motor and it's never broke down ever.I drive it hard 12 hours a day as a courier.

Koopah_99EJ4Dr

Okae ineed help. >.< so ihad bought this swap from alnjdmautomotors.com never again im in CA in this company is in TX anyways igot the motor didnt bother to check it cause iheard good stuff bout them so ididnt had tine to install the swap till agter my 2week waranty so when idid my heaf was jus seized my cam was locked the lock tooth on cqm gear was broken so no iended up buyin ah new y8 head and kept the p2j manifold im gettin ah jumping idle from 1 to 2rpms after car is warm any recomedations.? Thanks.

jbpnoman

Well, for starters, your problem isn't specific to this motor, nor this thread. Second off, you need to follow basic diagnostic tests (hint: they're in the FAQ's sticky) before you create your own thread. Third, if the basic diagnostics in the FAQ's sticky don't solve your problem, and searching doesn't yield any furtive ground, you should create your own thread.

Koopah_99EJ4Dr

I do have this swap as istated my vendor sold me the obd2 d15b with a seized head so i replaced it with a y8 head but kept the d15b mani on(p2j mani) now im getting a jumping idle after car warms up from 1rpm to 2rpms and ididnt start my own thread but continued one that was similar to my problem

jbpnoman

If you have a Y8 head, your problem is not at all related to this thread. This thread is specific to the entire, complete 3 stage D15B motor. That means the 3 stage D15B head, as well. Go read the FAQs, do some browsing and searching around the site for "surging idle", and a hundred threads will jump out at you.

Koopah_99EJ4Dr

what im sayin is that everyone well mostly everyone with this swap has switxhed their manifold to the y5 civic hx manifold and ididnt ikept the obd2 d15b manifold

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

If you swapped to a Y8 head then we aren't talking about the D15b multi-stage VTEC engine anymore. I really do not understand why people will go through so much pain to rig this swap to work and spend all that money rather than just get the proper ECU for it.

Your issue has nothing to do with this thread.

tony_2018

You're running a y8 head that doesn't have the vtec-e capabilities, not even sure what ecu you are running.

tony_2018

This is what I'm actually doing, or in the process of doing. I just need to get my wiring harness in and p2p ecu, and all the other bullshit.

tony_2018

Danrs,

Follow this diagram to get the 12v mode to 16v mode when using the d16y8 ecu.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/attac...06453e7c97.jpg.

tony_2018

On the subject of the o2 sensor wiring for a d16y8 harness, I ended up rewiring the o2 sensors because I'm using the d16y5 header with the cat converter on it. I had to rewire both the o2 sensors to the front of the car and it wasn't that bad. Just takes time. I pushed everything back inside the plastic covers. I also notice that those two dead plugs that go no where wasn't covered so I had leftover plastic to cover both of them. I did that because of an issue in the past where those wires would melt or burn up because of the heat and the recall was made to cover both the dead plugs properly.