Duffman791

So here's the backstory. I had issues with the car randomly shutting off at me and I was able to get it started back up. This would happen randomly and I linked it to the ignition switch. If I wiggled the key enough and played with it, the car would start up and run.

I took the car to a Honda dealer and had the ignition switch recall taken care of and all was great for about 6 months.

The problem began to occur again, and it ended up being the distributor. This time though I was unable to get the car to start, and I replaced the cap, rotor and ICM. I ended up just replacing the whole unit and everything worked perfectly well for a few more months.

Well the problem returned again while I was driving down the highway. The car would cut out, all lights stayed on, and then randomly started back up again. This time I was unable to get it started again by playing with the key. So I ended up replacing the distributor again and everything was fine, for a few months.

Now it is happening again. I just warrantied the distributor out for the second time. Sometimes the car won't start while sitting, and sometimes it starts up really quickly. Sometimes the car will die will driving and still, all the lights are on. I've tested the battery, alternator, replaced the distributor and have a new ignition switch from the recall fix.

Does anyone have any ideas on where to go next? I don't believe it is a fuel issue because you can hear the pump prime, and there is fuel going into the motor. What am I missing as part of the ignition system in this car? Could this be an ECU issue? A main relay problem? I've checked all wires and grounds and could not find a problem there either.

Duffman791

I must also note, that I've read many conflicting things about the crankshaft position sensor in this car. I've heard that there is one internally in the distributor and that there is also another one on the lower driver side of the motor. When I went to Advanced Auto, they pulled the code for the CKF and showed me the part to replace. Could this be an issue does anyone think? Crankshaft Position Sensor - Duralast (SU4087)

That's a link to the part.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

parts store distributors suck *****.

Jimi Hondrix

+1.. big, hairy *****.

Duffman791

I can't say that I disagree with this. The first two replacements I used were a Tough One brand. This most recent one is a CarQuest distributor. I was able to check the plug for the CKF sensor tonight, all was clean and the resistance checked out. I was able to drive it for a few miles without any issue but my wife took the car to her doctors and it wouldn't start twice and died 3 times while driving.

Duffman791

So I came to my senses to check the main relay. I pulled it out and found a BADLY cracked joint on the relay. Also, when I pulled the components out of the box, it smelled very strong of a burnt electronic smell. Obviously I'm going to have it replaced. I've only read of a single case of a main relay causing my type of issue, but I suppose it's one of the last to check? Input anyone?

Edit:
Here's a picture.

Former User

All you've done is replace parts. You never do any diagnostics. Obviously you never fixed the original problem by throwing parts at the car. Do basic no-start diagnostics the next time the engine won't start. That's the way to pinpoint the real problem.

Duffman791

I've had the ignition switch replaced, and pulled a code for a bad distributor so I replaced that. Then I pulled a code for a bad crankshaft position sensor which I had believe was inside the distributor so I replaced it again.

Edit: I had the ignition switch originally replaced because I noticed that with some degree, the key wigging and what not to solve the problem temporarily. The second time, I had very weak and intermittent spark, and ended up replacing the distributor. These last two times I figured that it was the distributor because I thought that something had gone wrong in it again because it wasn't a "quality genuine Honda part."

Former User

You pulled codes but did no diagnostics. Codes don't tell you what is wrong. You need to pull out your multimeter to pinpoint the problems. Get the service manual and start doing it the right way.

Duffman791

I've checked the ICM with a multimeter, the CKF sensor, checked battery voltage, etc. The last thing I am to check from my understanding at this time and point is the main relay.

Former User

Your "diagnostics" are primarily way off target. Get the service manual and use it. Otherwise, just stop posting.

Duffman791

Sorry Ron, I thought I was on track by checking the ignition components when I was having spark issues. Anyways, started the car, let it run with the heat on, and after about 15 minutes, it died. Wouldn't start up, so I decided to smack the main relay a little against the side and it started right up. I'll check it again. Is this diagnostic enough for a main relay like I've read about in some of your other posts?

Edit: I turned the heat on to simulate the vehicle while driving for interior temperature because right now it's about 50 degrees outside. One last edit, I haven't been able to check for fuel/spark issues the last several times because my wife has been rather far away when it occurs and I have just been able to get it to happen again.

Former User

I have never recommended smacking the main relay as a diagnostic procedure. You don't need a tech forum to help you as you seem uninterested in learning real diagnostics. However, if you want to learn proper approaches for diagnostics, start with the service manual.

Duffman791

Aye aye sir.

tamboo

Main Relay Fix, Troubleshooting (Honda, Acura) and how to solder

Duffman791

Thanks, I got it taken care of and so far everything is running smooth. Let the car sit idle for over an hour in my driveway to get things moving. Took it for a ~20 minute drive and everything is good for now. If I still have problems, I did as Ron suggested and downloaded the service manual and I will go into more depth (proper diagnostics of course so I don't get the wrath of Ron). It just seems a little difficult sometimes because my tool set is VERY limited.

Former User

I know my posts didn't put you in a happy place, but the 96-00 Civic service manual will serve you well in the long run.

Duffman791

I understand Ron. I actually did download that manual, all 2300 pages or something and looked through the process of actually diagnosing the CKF properly and if I have anymore problems and pull that code, I will diagnose that correctly.

Edit: I actually found it to be rather amazing though to see the step-by-step process for diagnosing each specific component.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

yup, the fsm is how honda is able to charge so much for labor, and also why they usually get it right the first time

Former User

I never saw you post a CKF code. You mentioned the CKF code but followed by asking about the crank position sensor, which is different from the CKF. Post the actual code that was pulled.

Duffman791

I believe it was P1336. Which is an intermittent signal from the CKF without looking right now. That's why I did some brief (what I thought was complete) testing of issue.