HoodbillyLG

Honestly never used a forum before so not gettin my hopes up but any help is greatly appreciated
Im goin to be pickin up a 96 civic for the mrs in a few days, so dont know a whole lot bout the car at the moment, but I do know it has a spun bearing and im new to hondas but have been turning wrenches a LONG TIME

What i need to know is what is a better fix for the lack of oil circulation on the bearings??
Iv heard of bearings with largers holes but cant seem to find where to buy them....or should i just got with my gut and up the oil pump and call it a day?? Or should i just go low comp and use a Y7/Y8 combo?? As i said this is a car for the Mrs. so i need reliability while still being fun to drive
Also tryin to price cranks any reputable places to order one??
So in a nut shell lookin for some help on a parts hunt

Canadian_EF

The Y8 and Y7 have very weak blocks. That's been my experience, along with countless others.

I think you could drop in a B18 for cheaper than rebuilding the Y8, unless you're planning on doing the rebuild yourself.

HoodbillyLG

Yes doin the work myself. Honestly been thinkin bout a b series, but from what iv seen in my area everybody thinks they are made of gold and this is just a daily driver toy for the mrs not looking to get to outrageous, leaning towards stickin with the Y's just cuz they are a dime a dozen just not tryin to have to open it up ever 6weeks

94EG8

If you're building a Y7/Y8 use a D16Z6 crank in it and that should take care of the oiling issues. Z6 crank has 2 oiling holes per journal, Y7/Y8 has one. Otherwise the cranks are identical. The oil pumps are the same as well internally, the only thing different in the housing (Z6 doesn't have provisions to mount a CKF sensor, and uses larger studs for the pickup tube)

HoodbillyLG

AWESOME!! this is the kind of info im lookin for
now would i have to do anythin special or would it literally be drop the z6 crank into the y7 bottom (obviously new bearings) and build my way up to the y8 head??
just looked up the measurements and they are EXACTLY the same size wise

HoodbillyLG

Or even better could i get away with this conversion on a complete y8?? Save myself $150 by not having to pick up a y7

94EG8

Just drop it in and go.

Absolutely. Y7 and Y8 share the same block, crank and rods. Y7 pistons are slightly higher compression but otherwise the bottom ends are identical.

HoodbillyLG

BRO!! your a ****** heaven send 🖒😆🖒 thank you so much your potentially saving me hundreds of dollars with this info
My wife has her heart set on this EK amd i despise them cuz all i ever hear about is how often they spin bearings but now i can fix the damn problem instead of just living with it
Would it be alright if i shoot you a message every now and again to wrack your brain with a question??
thank you again bro

94EG8

I prefer to reply in a thread since it potentially helps more people and it's always possible someone else knows something I don't that will better help you out. I'm absolutely cool with someone PMing me a link to their thread though if they really want my input. If you're really stuck or something though yeah, shoot me a PM.

For what it's worth as a stock daily driver driven sensibly I think your chances of spinning a rod bearing with a Y5/Y7/Y8 are pretty low. When abused, run low on oil, over-revved, etc then I think you have a much greater chance of spinning a rod bearing over a Z6 or A6.

This was little comparison I did a few years ago: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...ealed-3189835/