ActiveAero

I apparently have a faulty ignition switch and do not feel like paying $200-250 to replace the entire assembly. The car will start, but as soon as you release the key it dies.

I've unplugged the ignition switch on the backside of the key input. It has five wires. I'm trying to figure out which set of wires keeps the engine running after being started. I'll be rigging up a toggle switch along with a push button for starting.

I have a volt meter, but no Helms manual to follow.

Any input on the function of each wire would be appreciated. Thanks.

ActiveAero

It's an EG (94).

project_mercy

functionally, here's how it works.

When the key's off, nothing's connected (position O)

turn it to the first position (acc) it connects +12Vdc (WHT) to Accessory + (WHT/BLK).

If you turn it to the second position (run) it connects +12Vdc (WHT) to Accesory+ (Wht/Blk), Ignition Sys[your distributor] Power+ (Yel/Blk) and Systems Power+ (Yel).

Turn it to the third position (start) it connects +12Vdc (WHT) to Ignition Sys+ (Yel/Blk) and Starter Solenoid+ (Blk/Wht). Which is why you always see your dash, stereo, and such, flash off when you 'start' the car. Basically it disconnects accessory and systems power during a start cycle. I'd assume to conserve amp draw.

If you have any other questions, PM me.

ActiveAero

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project_mercy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">functionally, here's how it works.

When the key's off, nothing's connected (position O)

turn it to the first position (acc) it connects +12Vdc (WHT) to Accessory + (WHT/BLK).

If you turn it to the second position (run) it connects +12Vdc (WHT) to Accesory+ (Wht/Blk), Ignition Sys[your distributor] Power+ (Yel/Blk) and Systems Power+ (Yel).

Turn it to the third position (start) it connects +12Vdc (WHT) to Ignition Sys+ (Yel/Blk) and Starter Solenoid+ (Blk/Wht). Which is why you always see your dash, stereo, and such, flash off when you 'start' the car. Basically it disconnects accessory and systems power during a start cycle. I'd assume to conserve amp draw.

If you have any other questions, PM me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x10000000

I'll PM you if I have trouble rigging something up.

project_mercy

as per my PM



The reason for the two SPST's is, I didn't feel like switching all that power through a single relay. I'm not sure what amperage draw is between those two lines. You're welcome to drop it to one if you want.

Make sure they're at least 30amp relays.

nocturnaldragon

You could allways goto the junk yard and get a new switch, i belive the modual part on the back can be removed and switched to your old key cylinder without much work but dont hold me to that, far less then $250

JinDIESEL

hope u fix your prob, man

jasperl33

Do you know if I can put the ignition switch from a 2001 integra into a 2000 civic LX. Will that be compatible?

jasperl33

I have a 2000 civc LX and bought a 2001 gsr. The problem is gsr eci has the immobilizer and there is a way to remove it but it will keep the engine light on. Somone told me to get a gsr ignition switch and put it in the civic and have the acura dealer to reprogram it. My question is will the gsr ignition switch fit into the civic or do I need some modification. Need your help. thanks

Br1anPham

saved for future reference.