IACV Fried my ECU
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IACV Fried my ECU
1st off, let me give a short brief on my car. I swapped in a B16A into a 92 Civic CX shell I bought about 8 months ago. Ever since I've had the thing running, I've had Cell #14, IACV. I have cleaned it, tested it by running power and ground directly to it, and watched it work like its supposed to, but still I get the CEL and still at around 1600 RPM's the Idle would bounce around and cause the car to bounce until I got the RPMs above.
Anyways, I took my ECU to Inline Pro to get them to chip it with Hondata S300J, in preparation for my Turbo. They take the ECU apart to inspect it, and I hear him say, "Oh, Toasty." He showed me where it was fried, and asked if the ECU worked. It did, I had just pulled it out days before, and he asks if I've had IACV problems.
So I told him my story, and he thinks the IACV Wire 'Green/White' and the AIT 'Red/Yellow' Wires got crossed up in the ECU. I go back home, with the map of the ECU Wires they had provided me, and everything was lined up the way it should.
So, could a bad IACV Sensor have caused the positive current back to the ECU? Could I have plugged the IACV Sensor in the wrong place when I first installed the swap that caused the surge, and if so, since the resistor blew, will replacing the resistor fix my IACV?
Any ideas or adivce would be appreciated. Plan on getting the ECU fixed, but don't want to re-install the ECU after getting the resistor replaced and popping it again.
BTW, the ECU still runs fine without that 1 resistor, just got the 1600 RPM Problem as listed above.
Thanks again.
Anyways, I took my ECU to Inline Pro to get them to chip it with Hondata S300J, in preparation for my Turbo. They take the ECU apart to inspect it, and I hear him say, "Oh, Toasty." He showed me where it was fried, and asked if the ECU worked. It did, I had just pulled it out days before, and he asks if I've had IACV problems.
So I told him my story, and he thinks the IACV Wire 'Green/White' and the AIT 'Red/Yellow' Wires got crossed up in the ECU. I go back home, with the map of the ECU Wires they had provided me, and everything was lined up the way it should.
So, could a bad IACV Sensor have caused the positive current back to the ECU? Could I have plugged the IACV Sensor in the wrong place when I first installed the swap that caused the surge, and if so, since the resistor blew, will replacing the resistor fix my IACV?
Any ideas or adivce would be appreciated. Plan on getting the ECU fixed, but don't want to re-install the ECU after getting the resistor replaced and popping it again.
BTW, the ECU still runs fine without that 1 resistor, just got the 1600 RPM Problem as listed above.
Thanks again.
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Re: IACV Fried my ECU
Wire colors for IACV should be blue/yellow and yellow/black. Wire colors for the IAT should be red/yellow and green/white. Wire colors for the Evap purge solenoid are red and yellow/black. All three use identical plugs and are in close proximity to each other, its easily possible that 2 of them are plugged into the wrong sensors. I can tell you plugging the IACV connector into the IAT sensor will pretty much instantanously kill the IAT sensor (ask me how I know).
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Re: IACV Fried my ECU
Wire colors for IACV should be blue/yellow and yellow/black. Wire colors for the IAT should be red/yellow and green/white. Wire colors for the Evap purge solenoid are red and yellow/black. All three use identical plugs and are in close proximity to each other, its easily possible that 2 of them are plugged into the wrong sensors. I can tell you plugging the IACV connector into the IAT sensor will pretty much instantanously kill the IAT sensor (ask me how I know).
Thanks again for that!
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Re: IACV Fried my ECU
Still haven't been able to find where the Evap Sesnor Connector is supposed to go. The IAT sensor was in the right spot. Just got to find where the Evap Sensor is supposed to go because thats where my IACV Connector is at now so I can switch them.
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Re: IACV Fried my ECU
I do not appear to have a IACV Connector, it must have been lopped off during the swap. And the JDM Engine doesn't have an Evap Purge Solenoid. Could I run the Green/White Wire which is the IACV Wire from the ECU to a 2 Pin Connector and splice a Yellow/Black Wire into it to provide it with the Ground/Positive, which ever one it is?
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