Redline96LX

I have done the swap. Now I had no problems with mine, cept when i swapped the 2 sensors on the TB, after i changed it back, it was perfect. I have a 96 D16y7 and used a Automatic y8 IM with NO air injection.
Now I got a new TB gasket cause it was 3 bucks, new IM gasket, and all new bolts cause i got em cheap at hondaautomotiveparts.com .
What happened to me was.
I had a y8 TB.
Didnt care, just needed the 1. Spring and 2. The rotor piece that holds the throttle cable to the stick. I put in the plate piece (its held with that one bolt.) I put on the y8 throttle piece, but didnt put on the right spring. The wrong spring caused ALL the problems. WHen i put it on, it was too loose. So...I'd have the throttle sometimes open a little. It would only close all the way if i touched it closed. When driving for the 5 min test drive, I had to put my foot under the throttle pedal to get it to idle at 650 insted of at 1500. You have to use the spring and throttle cable connector from a Y8 Throttle body. This is a must. I had both springs, and noticed one worked and one didnt. I figured it out.

Now your idle. Please add that 7th bolt, that could definatly cause a leak. Also, I'm sure you know that your engine revving that high when at a cold start can be bad. Also, with that air injection, you could possibly have had it run lean, which can harm it. I'm sure after this short time your okay.
Oh yeah, I used a y7 IM gasket, and a paper TB gasket. Took me a hour and a half to scrape off the old IM gasket, sucked man.

ADVICE on the swap from me to you.
I did it in atlanta in the summer, and I did not run coolant through the TB, i said it wasnt needed and did it before winter, cause it only prevents the IACV from locking up. Don't do this, please run the coolant the way it should. I had a pain in the *** time running a coolant line to the TB after it was installed. I tried to do it without taking off my intake of TB or IM, and i did but with MUCH frustration. Everyone, learn from this stupid mistake. Other than that and the wrong spring, I was fine. Hope I helped, lemme know if ya need anything else.

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by badream20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought about swapping my intake mani y7 for the y8. Is there alot of diff? i heard it would give you better high rpm power or torque?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well the y7 is a pretty stout nonvtec motor!
its IM is definetly a weakness..

and ****, it aims towards the hood! wtf is that about?

personally I like the z6 mani over the y8 though,

Redline96LX

Technically speaking, I believe that the y7 IM was designed that way on purpose. See, Honda has to stick to its structure to sell cars, the EX model has to offer more for it to sell, and they make a lot more cash on it for those FEW extra bits and pieces. Um, sunroof, ABS brakes, bigger rotors, bigger exhaust (simplified is what i mean), VTEC motor, better IM, stronger connecting rods, better gas mileage, all that ****. I've seen car companies do this, and I think Honda may have too: I think they created the EX motor relatively efficiently, and the y7 motor was "detuned" to make the gap between the EX and LX noticable. Maybe for the y8 they beefed up the connecting rods, but I think they made the y8 first, and to get the HP "down" on the y7, they made that sad excuse for a intake manifold to reduce power. This is just my speculation, I could be wrong. I base this on no proof other than the shape is beyond stupid. Notice on anything performance theres a basic idea of a manifold. Air comes in, big area, and it goes STRAIGHT into the cylinders, its tuned, the runners are usually turned to increase velocity. These runners on the y7 IM arent even straight, they bend twice, and i dont think there even equal length. They certainly are skinny enough to strangle high RPM power. Maybe they made this for a LITTLE less cost, but if they had not designed it, the cost between the y8 and y7 IM i bet would be so little. And they wouldnt have this shitty design, woulda gained performance, mileage, overall better, but who knows. Maybe it saved em cash, maybe this helped sell more vehicles. Which is their goal. Cause Honda now is clearly focusing on selling hybrids and making money rather than develop sporty cars. They are goin downhill in their somewhat performance and sporty vechicles. NSX year number 15!

yes, the y8 manifold is a great upgrade. After doing it, the car felt more alove, pulled a little more. Look at it, its plenum is huge, it does a better job doing what a manifold is suppose to do. Throttle response seems better. And with my 31$ intake, the car sounds deeper at take off at low RPMs. I know this added power, maybe not a lot, but my civic LX seems a little stronger, more alive. The sound and all is nicer. For a 31$ intake pipe and filter, and my used y8 IM for 61$, after nuts and bolts, this whole swap cost me just over 100$, and it gave me something to do on my car to make it better (took me 6 hours - gasket scraping sucks). Eventually the little gas increase may pay for itself, but because I like workin on my car and knowing this is a overall increase with no downfall, I'm glad I did it. Plus now I can put on the actual useful style of tower bar (which I did, yes i drilled into the chassis). So in my opinion, this was worth it to me for about 100$.

mugencivic4dr

i had the same problem with my DX motor with a EX manifold... the reason why it idles is because you have a vacuum leak... the reason why you have a vacuum leak is because the part of the manifold tha bolts to the head is bigger... the ports are not bigger just the maifold itself.... if you still want to keep the manifold on but want the idling to lower down, just plug the hose that goes from the round part of the manifold to the nipple that sticks up on the manifold by the head... you plug tha up an it will still idle but it will idle lower...

RareSI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugencivic4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same problem with my DX motor with a EX manifold... the reason why it idles is because you have a vacuum leak... the reason why you have a vacuum leak is because the part of the manifold tha bolts to the head is bigger... the ports are not bigger just the maifold itself.... if you still want to keep the manifold on but want the idling to lower down, just plug the hose that goes from the round part of the manifold to the nipple that sticks up on the manifold by the head... you plug tha up an it will still idle but it will idle lower...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You must have skipped over most of my write up. I have NO open vacuum ports.

Smith Wise

so i have a 99 d16y7 with a 00 y8 IM...

you guys are telling me that I need to swap the spring and cable plate? with what?

I am currently using the tb from my y7, but i still have the tb from the y8, can i just throw that on?

RareSI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smith Wise &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i have a 99 d16y7 with a 00 y8 IM...

you guys are telling me that I need to swap the spring and cable plate? with what?

I am currently using the tb from my y7, but i still have the tb from the y8, can i just throw that on?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, you can just make an even swap if you like. I did not have a T/B when I got my I/M. I obtained an OBD-1 B-series T/B that wouldn't work, so I just took the spring and plate.

Jon V

Do you guys use the Y7 throttle cable bracket off the Y7 throttle body, or do you have to use a Y8 throttle cable bracket?

am using a Y8 mani (non air injection from what i can tell, auto) with my Y7 throttle body and Y8 spring and throttle plate...

i_ridedumped

guys im using i 96 intake mani and the dx tb all the bolts to the im are on and i dont have the air injection holes so thts not the problem. i swapped the throttle plate from the ex tb to my dx tb and all vac lines are sealed, but the car revs all the way up when i start it then the idle drops and surges. where else could a vac leak be? i am using the y8 ex tb gasket cuz it was stuck on the im. would that be where the leak is? the idle drops when i cover the hole on the tb for the iacv so i jb welded it, but when i drive it and it gets hot it starts to surge again and the check light will turn on.

_HANS

iTrader: (1)

damn

98_civic_dude

i took my y7 manifold to try a z6 manifold. i didnt know how to hook it up, so i put my y7 manifold back on. when i put the y7 manifold back on, i had the same symptoms as you did. the gas pedal was really soft. one tap on it and you can feel the car pull forward. also, it would have that stupid, annoying reving. then the next day i put my y8 manifold on, double check everything, and then turn car on. it ran fine. im guessing that there was some sort of vacuum leak somewhere that i couldnt find. im guessing thats probably your problem too.

97ekjose

I know this subject has been beaten to death and my eyes are almost bleeding from all the reading i have done, lol, just wanted to be double sure one last time, all i would need to swap in a y8 intake manifold to my y7 motor is the intake manifold, throttle cable complete with spring, and throttle body, or can i use my y7 throttle body ?
How about injectors ? Can i just reuse mine with no problems or would it be easier if i just swap a complete y8 intake manifold in ? Meaning all the accessories on it including injectors and all ?
And as for a pic of which holes to plug as well ?
Thanks for any help.

CivicCity

Bump
Im doing a y7/y8 mini me and im swapping the intakes so my question really is what to do with the tb and what not ... kinda confused me ... sorry im sick and tired get confused super easy lol
Also would anyone know if my y7 exhaust mani would fit on the y8 head ? ... just until i get the time and money for a header

canadaek

old thread but the reason for using the auto y8 intake was beacuse y7 (auto and manual) use a 3 wire IAVC on the throttle body manual y8 use a 2 wire mounted on the rear of the manifold so if using a vtec ecu for manual trans use all the manual y8 intake t/b . and yes your y7 exhaust manifold will work

Tmklim

hey just a random question.my brother in law took his y7 auto coupe that he converted into manual and put on my y8 auto intake and now he has idle hunt and high idle like crazy and idk how to help em bc i dont see anywhere he could be surging from.anyone have this problem before?thanks

D15miniek

I have same problem i have a y7 with a jdm d15b vtec head swapped out the mani with a z6 just put a chipped p28 in and i have an idle surge i have my iacv disabled thru ecu and its the throttle body where your iacv is causing the idle i left that stupid center bolt off the mani for two years now never had a vaccum leak its the coolant passing thru causing the plunger to suck in then let go giving u a surge

D15miniek

Seal it and all will be well