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The Pro3 shift the power band to the right, for higher rpm power. Killing off some of the midrange power the Pro1 should have. Trying to keep as much usable power between 4k to 8.5k rpm.
For a drag car, the Pro3 is probably the way to go, but this car isn't going to be drag racing.
I really like this thread so far. I have similar goals and definitely want to follow and see your results. You obviously know what you're talking about and you do good quality work (the high quality pictures are a bonus as well). Keep up the hard work.
I really like this thread so far. I have similar goals and definitely want to follow and see your results. You obviously know what you're talking about and you do good quality work (the high quality pictures are a bonus as well). Keep up the hard work.
Talked to my machinist and he recommended going with an aftermarket damper for some insurance. Reviewed what brands people have gone with, and found that both of the popular brands have been used with no problems. Went with the ATI, 7" race version as I won't ever install AC or PS. Also grabbed an ARP crank pulley bolt to lock it down.
Block is ready to be picked up. Been bored, honed and decked.
The crank is going to be polished. Was waiting on balancing until I got the balancer, but ATI says not to balance it with the rotating assembly.
Why did you had it polished? Btw, how come some poeple say it's not good to polish Honda's crankshafts because of small tolerance? Or something like that?
Why did you had it polished? Btw, how come some poeple say it's not good to polish Honda's crankshafts because of small tolerance? Or something like that?
Not sure I've ever heard that. Doesn't seem to be an issue with the shop I used. They've done plenty of high power builds, they take their time to keep tolerances in check.
I had the rods inspected, and the big end worked on to make it as round as possible. The crank was measured for taper, after it checked good, I had the shop polish the journals to get everything out of the engine as possible. Polishing should limit friction and allow for smooth oil flow across the bearings (keeping things lubed and taking away heat).
I measured the rod journals, and the rod big ends, and it looks like the shop made everything the same size. Rod journals all measured to 1.8905", big ends all measured 1.7710". (1.8905" - 1.7710") - 0.0015" / 2 = 0.059" This should make the green rod bearings perfect for this engine. Mains were also measured, and it looks like the yellow bearings for #1,2,4 and 5. Number 3 is getting extra clearance so pink should be perfect. Ordered two yellows, and one green to double check my measurements with plastigauge. Might even take the block, crank and rods back to the shop and have them measure for me. Thinking it'd be about $100, and they'd be measuring with nicer tools and use them more than I do.
Don't get me wrong, I'm happy if everything is okey.
I just wanted to know a few things.
Few of guys talked that if you polish the crankshaft, you need to nitriding it. Sorry for bad english.
Depends on the thickness of the hardened surface, and how much material is removed during polishing. Since there was no taper on the journals, the shop probably took off such an insignificant amount it didn't cause any issue to the OEM hardening process.
With working 60 hour weeks, I decided to have the machine shop assemble the short block, I don't have much free time right now. Took it back today and they'll start work on it next week. I'm at the back of the line.
Wait, if you polish the crankshaft, then you need to harden it? I'm sorry, but this is all new to me. :D
Not quite what I wrote.
If there is taper on the journals, you either need to cut the crank, or find a new one that doesn't need to be cut. If you cut the journals, you run a greater chance of cutting through the OEM hardening treatment. Polishing it self takes off so little material, it's inconsequential to the hardened surface. Polishing takes off material less than the width of a human hair.
My crank didn't need to be cut, just polished.
Originally Posted by Josip.
Do you think they will do good job?
This shop pays great attention to detail. I'm not worried about the quality or their work.
No real updates. I moved right after my last post and I've been getting the place in order over the winter. Haven't even really thought about working on the car.
I found the overheating issue the car had. It was a small coolant leak from a hose behind the intake manifold. I got on the gas pretty hard (2nd-4th gears), and when I came to a stop there was steam coming out of the hood. Thought I killed the head gasket. Traced the problem and replaced the hose. That's about the only work I've done on the car since the last post. That, and I took out the carpet because of water getting in, it was a teen"s wet dream in there, wet and slimy. Race car though, so oh well.
Still have the spare head to swap in. Soon. I think I already have the cam seals, and I already have the head gasket. Then I can have the head with the Supertech valvetrain worked on at the machine shop.
The short block is assembled. I'll post some shots when I get the time. I have a friend who's a Master Honda Tech, going to see if he'll finish putting the block together (water pump, oil pump, gaskets, etc.). He knows all the little ish to do on these engines, where to put the HB and such. Rather pay him than spend countless hours reading the manual.
I should probably install my radar detector before I get a ticket. Just have to figure out how/where I want to install it. I'll probably put it right under the rear view mirror. It's a V1, so it needs to be able to see forwards and backwards. I also have a small dash cam I want to install at the same time.
Autocross season is here. Can't wait to go thrash the car and smash some cones! No point doing all the suspension stuff if all I do is get groceries and go to work.
No real updates. I moved right after my last post and I've been getting the place in order over the winter. Haven't even really thought about working on the car.
I found the overheating issue the car had. It was a small coolant leak from a hose behind the intake manifold. I got on the gas pretty hard (2nd-4th gears), and when I came to a stop there was steam coming out of the hood. Thought I killed the head gasket. Traced the problem and replaced the hose. That's about the only work I've done on the car since the last post. That, and I took out the carpet because of water getting in, it was a teen"s wet dream in there, wet and slimy. Race car though, so oh well.
Still have the spare head to swap in. Soon. I think I already have the cam seals, and I already have the head gasket. Then I can have the head with the Supertech valvetrain worked on at the machine shop.
The short block is assembled. I'll post some shots when I get the time. I have a friend who's a Master Honda Tech, going to see if he'll finish putting the block together (water pump, oil pump, gaskets, etc.). He knows all the little ish to do on these engines, where to put the HB and such. Rather pay him than spend countless hours reading the manual.
I should probably install my radar detector before I get a ticket. Just have to figure out how/where I want to install it. I'll probably put it right under the rear view mirror. It's a V1, so it needs to be able to see forwards and backwards. I also have a small dash cam I want to install at the same time.
Autocross season is here. Can't wait to go thrash the car and smash some cones! No point doing all the suspension stuff if all I do is get groceries and go to work.
07-16-2016, 06:14 AM
Re: From the Ground Up. Build Thread.
