MIsterE533

So I have an easy way of doing this while the head is still on the car, does require some tools you need to acquire, The snap-on valve spring compressor, or if your a cheap one, go down to shucks or whatever and get one of their universal valve spring compressors and shave off the side tabs, I did that for the first time I did this, worked pretty well.

Tools Req:
1: Valve spring compressor while head is still on vehicle. Make sure you have one that does not need to clamp to the valve to work.
2: compression test guage set with detachable hose to work with short plugs or long plugs, It has a hose where you can detach the guage with an air tool fitting. Also make sure it has shcrader valves in the base of the spark plug hole.
3: Pen magnet to remove the keepers.
4: Seal puller for valve stem seals.
5: Needle nose pliers.
6: Spark plug socket, use oil in the plug socket so plugs dont stick in the socket, easy to remove. 5/8" plug socket.
7: 6" or 12" extension.
8: Ratchet
9: Compressed air source
10: 3/8" drive air impact.
11: 1/2" drive air impact.
12: 10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm 19mm sockets.

Parts Required:
1: New valve stem seals
2: New valve springs, keepers and retainers if desired.

I will post pictures next week when I do this again to my B16. Leaky valve stem seals = JDM oil burner.

Step 1: Remove neg battery cable.

Step 2: Pull your plug wires and label them if you do not know firing order. From left to right 1-4.

Step 3: Pull Spark plugs.

Step 4: Remove valve cover, be sure not to tear your valve cover gasket. 10mm socket.

Step 5: Loosen your alternator belt, two 14mm bolts where alternator mounts to block and then the top bolt on the pulley, also remove your alternator bracket, and removing the alternator makes it easier.

Step 5: Support motor with either an engine hoist or floor jack with a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan so you do not dent or mar your oil pan.

Step 6: remove your driver side mount from the motor and then from the body. 17mm bolts on studs and 17mm head on mount bolt.

Step 7: Pull the cam pulley making sure to not lose your keway for the crank pulley. 19mm socket on all b series, 17mm on d series. You are going to need a compressed air source breaker bars will not remove this no matter how hard you pull. 1/2" is about it. I have not used a 3/8" gun that will remove that crank bolt.

Step 8: Remove your timing belt cover.

Step 9: Loosen your timing belt tensioner. 14mm bolt head.

Step 10: Remove the timing belt.

Now You should be ready to start your valve spring removal and install.

Step 1: Remove all your cam bolts on the journals, 10mm socket, Get a piece of cardboard or some other adequate material and label which cylinder they came out of and intake and exhaust, they need to go back in the same order they came out, or you will have serious cam problems. Or crane or comp cams make a box to put all your journals and bolts springs keepers etc in. Summit racing carries these.

Step 2: Remove schrader valve from side of compression test guage that screws into the plug hole.

Step 3: Screw Compression test guage into plug hole.

Step 4: Pressurize compression test guage line, leave the air hooked up while you work on the cylinder. (This is so the valves do not fall down into the cylinder, because thats well not fun)

Step 5: Start removing your valve springs and keepers. Install your valve spring compressor on the valve spring and on the spring retainer, tighten your compressor till the keepers become free.

Step 6: remove your keepers with the pen magnet being sure to not lose them in the head, set your keepers with the valve spring and retainer after you pull them out. Keep all the valve springs and retainers with the same valve they came out of.

Step 7: Inspect the springs and retainers for damage.

Step 8: Pull out valve stem seals.

Step 9: Install new valve stem seals. Be careful doing this, make sure you drive the seal in evenly, use a socket ontop of the valve stem, get a deep socket and gently tap the valve stem back in till it fully seats in the head.

Step 10: Reinstall your spring retainer and keeper after you put the new valve stem seal in.

Repeat for all valve stem seals, put it back together in the order you took it apart and your done, no more oil burning and no more black ugly stuff on the top of your pistons. Good luck and have fun, be careful, and wear saftey glasses. Hope this helps.

Let me know if I've forgotten anything.

dmotoguy

great write up, thanks man.

instructor74

nice right up. some photos of this beign done would be great. Did you have to remove either the intake or exhaust manifolds?
edit: oops my bad just saw where you said you are going to post pix latter

dmotoguy

I'll be doing this during the week sometime and I'll try to take some photos.

instructor74

how much air psi does it take to keep the vales closed while you compress the springs

dmotoguy

Ive been told not to go over 30... so somewhere around 20-25?

MIsterE533

umm doesnt really matter, i hooked up my air compressor and let the ****in thing run. didnt hurt a thing. 100 psi or 200 psi, your b16 runs at 205 psi. i still havint posted pics, i should probably do that. ****. i'll get to it.

aasarsak

iTrader: (2)

Is all this absolutely necessary? I mean, why would you want to pull the drive belt off completely? Why remove the crank pulley at all? Why not just remove the valve cover, and the upper drive belt plastic cover, remove the cam gears, and slide the drive belt out of the way? It seems like you're making this way harder than it needs to be...


There is actually a special socket that you are supposed to use to loosen the pulley bolt. It is hollow, and it is a 1/2" drive that you are supposed to put the pulley bolt socket through and use a breaker bar to loosen. How the hell can you properly torque your pulley bolt if you use an impact wrench?!

Couln't you just use some tiny vice grips with some kind of cushion between the teeth of the grips and the valve stems like a piece of vacuum hose?

A for effort, but F for making yourself go through too much effort! LOL

Nice write-up otherwise...

Just make sure that everything is properly torqued when re-installing the valvetrain. Also, don't just install it and drive it off. You have to adjust your valves, and set the timing after this job. Very important!

MIsterE533

Hey assarak old write up of mine, but you have to remove the lma's to get to the valves, so if you feel like not pulling a t belt and ****ing some cams up be my guest to leave your cams in the head and not pull the lma's, you'll never get to the valves.

Valve seals are snapped onto the nipple of the valve guide that protrudes up from the head where the valve springs seat.

If you were to put vice grips and a piece of vacuum tubing on the valve stem, how would you slide the valve seal off the stem without dropping the valve?

If you save yourself the trouble and pressurize the cylinder then you don't have to **** with dropping valves. Then if you do, drop a valve, your doing a head gasket and you've just made a **** ton of work for yourself.

I'd rather put on my pulley bolt with a 1/2" drive impact rather than my actual crank pulley holding tool in my box, its easier and faster, and at 600ftlbs I'm not all that worried about it coming off. You have to remove the crank pulley to remove the timing belt, I hope to god its your first time.

Get a manual and go from there.

angrysmileyface

Not to dis anyone or of that nature. The 92-95 Service manual makes no mention of removing the timing belt for this procedure for a D16Z1 engine. It does require cylinder pressurization however. I havent tried the service manual procedure yet, so YMMV. I like the tutorial idea however. (6-24 or around those parts in the 92-95 Manual)

MIsterE533

I'm talking about for dohc motors, and you still need to move the lma's or rocker arms or whatever you feel like calling them to get to the valve springs on sohc motors. you may not have to remove the cam on singles, but when you have an almost bare head it sure makes it easier to work on. Less chance of dropping valve keepers down into the head.