dsdonnie

I just got done putting in this setup into a y8:
-a new ported/polished head
-Crower stage 1 cam(z6)
-Skunk2 Intake Manifold
-Skunk2 cam gear (y8)
-Crower Stainless Steel Valves
-Crower Titanium Ret. and Valve springs
-AEM Fuel Rail
-B&M fuel pressure reg. (turned up to 45)

Ok now I am having some issues. it doesnt seem to pull hard at high speed. I have a Z6 crower cam but its a y8 motor. Crower said to advance the timing 6 degrees because of the combo to run right. we did that but i am wondering if they were off and I should advance it more. I can advance it up to 10 degrees.

Anyone have any insight?

civicholo

i would try to do just that. advance it a little more to see what it does. you're "tuning" it. also be sure the valves are all adjusted right and everything is tight. because you have a port and polish job might have an effect on it too. from what i know, that is supposed to add hp not trq. by the way, i have the same head on my d15b block. all i need is a vtec controller to activate the vtec. good luck.

dsdonnie

yeah it did increase overall HP. i am concerned with valve clearance issues by advancing the timing too much.

gftgrill

I have a stock y8 with the crower stg1. it has good pull throughout. I had to advance timing pretty far to get it to idle. but before I had it advanced so far, it had great pull.

so try retarding your dizzy a little and see if that gets you what you want.

dsdonnie

It was originally set and "0" and ran like *** and wouldnt idle. I had to advance it to "6" and it idles fine but not what I would expect from a built d16y8 minus the bottom end. i still cant get over how loud it is. i also put my silencer back in and it seems to run even better with it in for some reason. but it still doesnt have as much top end as i would expect. the comp cam guys dont know anything and have been no help.

gftgrill

ok, try setting your cam gear to about 4.5 instead of 6.

technically the z6 and y8 are a half tooth apart, which is 4.75 degrees. I have a z6 adjustable gear on my y8, and I have it advanced or retarded, I forget which, so I set it between 4 and 5 degrees.

but I had to advance the ignition timing pretty far to get it to idle. remember that ignition and cam timing are different. when my ignition timing was at stock, it wouldn't idle for ****, but damn it felt great on the highway.

dsdonnie

i didnt know you could adjust your ignition timing

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dsdonnie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didnt know you could adjust your ignition timing</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just get a timing light and rotate the dizzy forward (advanced) and back (retarded). Adjusting the ignition timing will help a lot with your tuning. they could be very right about 6 degrees advanced and you just have to set your ignition timing now.

dsdonnie

dizzy?

gftgrill

dizzy = distributor

gftgrill

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just get a timing light and rotate the dizzy forward (advanced) and back (retarded). Adjusting the ignition timing will help a lot with your tuning. they could be very right about 6 degrees advanced and you just have to set your ignition timing now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

just so you know how to do this. there are 3, 12 mm? bolts holding on the dizzy. just loosen them a little and rotate as needed, don't remove the bolts and don't overtighten. it might be a good ideal to use a sharpie and mark the dizzy before moving it so you know where you started at if you need to reset timing

advanced = turning the dizzy towards the firewall

retarded = turning towards the radiator.

dsdonnie

ok i appreciate the info. I never heard of that before. I didnt you could adjust the ignition timing that way

q45mm

HE's right

dsdonnie

any other tuning tips from anyone to get this running better?

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dsdonnie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any other tuning tips from anyone to get this running better?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well make sure the O2 sensor(s) are working and get an adjustable FPR so you can fine tune a little more. Also check and adjust your idle too.

Hyjnx

how much did that all cost u? and is it a large difference over stock? i was thinkin about some of those mods myself and i wanted to know if u felt it was worth the money

dsdonnie

I am not sure on the exact cost as I got a hell of a deal on the head. I paid 350 with all the internals in it from crower. the internals alone cost more than that. I paid 1300 for the labor plus new timing belt,waterpump,intake manifold,cam grar,fuel rail and regulator(got these for $125). All in all I eneded up spending around 1500-1600.

As far as a power difference it still needs some tuning but overall a pretty nice increase but LOUD. Then engine is twice as loud.

Hyjnx

damn thats nice...i know people that could do the labor i jsut wanted to know about the other products...my guess is u dropped it all in at once so u didnt see the significance of each product...still thats cool...definately would like to check that out

dsdonnie

I am hoping to get some decent #'s but I think I may need to jump up to a stage 2 cam. If i still see the same results after next week I am gonna get the stage2 I think.