n8s_ej8

Hey guys,

Finally fixed my high idle issue and now on to the next...I've got a 96 Civic EX with a D16y7/y8 mini me swap. It's been getting cold in Iowa and I've had a very difficult time starting the car in the mornings.

The car never starts on the first crank in the mornings. Sometimes it will start on the second crank but sputter and die within seconds. This cycle usually goes on about 5-6 cranks until it will start and stay running but idle very low until it warms up. When warm it idles right around 800 rpm.

Sometimes once the car is warm I will get a surging idle while driving, mostly noticible in 1st and 2nd gear. Makes the car very difficult to drive. Usually turning off the car and restarting makes this go away.

I've noticed that having the lights on, applying the brake pedal, or anything that involves electronics or hydraulics will lower the idle as well. I'm replacing the alternator, belt and battery this weekend to try to aleviate that problem.

Any tips on figuring out my cold start issue? I'm going to try to clean the map sensor or replace it along with the IAT sensor. I've also read that the TPS may need adjusted and that the Main Relay may need to be looked at/replaced. Just mainly looking for a starting place at this point.

Some things I've already done while combating a high idle issue I was having are cleaning the IACV, bleeding the coolant, checking plugs/wires and firing order.

Any help is much appreciated.

Carnivorous20

in addition to replacing the battery, make sure the leads and connections are clean. if they're corroded, it might be hard to keep up a good running voltage

DELshaneSOL

get a high cranking amp battery

Former User

Have you done a recent tune up?

Any CEL codes?

n8s_ej8

Only had the car about 3 weeks. No tune up yet.

Also no CEL codes, at least there's no light. I don't have a scanner to be sure though

Former User

Turn the key from off to ON(II). Does the CEL turn on and then off after 2 seconds?

You can pull codes by jumping the service connector -- see CEL sticky at the top.

n8s_ej8

Got some time to work on it this weekend. Took apart the cluster and found that the PO had removed the CEL bulb. Put a new one in and it's on.

Pulled a P0117 code, Coolant Temp Sensor low voltage.

Replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor (the one below the dizzy) and the lights still on but the car is starting better in the cold. Today was the first time that it started without killing the battery. Took 3 key turns to start it, but it caught on each crank, just would die after a couple seconds.

Also replaced my air filter (old one was a crusty K&N that wasn't letting thorugh much air) and added the bottom bolt to my alternator (it was held on by the top bolt only!)

Now I need help figuring out the P0117 code. I did find that the harness to the CTS was swapped with another one so I changed those out. Still think there's a short somewhere but don't have a way to check continuity. Are there any other things that would make this code pop up?

Former User

There are three temp sensors in the engine bay. What sensor did you replace? The ECT sensor (below distributor) has a two wire connector with Red/Wht and Grn/Blk wires. Did you reset the ECU after replacing the ECT sensor?

n8s_ej8

Replaced the smaller one that's towards the front of the engine under the dizzy. Has the red/wht and grn blk harness plugged in. I did reset the ECU after replacing the sensor. The light went off for about 20 seconds and then came back on. Same code after we rescanned.

Former User

Find a digital multimeter. It's time to test those two wires for an open or short.

If the two wires test fine, then swap in a known good ECU.

n8s_ej8

I will definitley be checking the wires.

Sounds like you're reading this straight out of the service manual

motegicivic

If it does Ron does there mean a code is triggered? I thought the CEL light stays on?

Former User

The procedure I mentioned tests whether the CEL works. If the CEL remains on steady, then a code is stored in the ECU.