juda

Hello everyone, I have a 92 civic eg with 122k miles and a 5 speed mt. I plan on restoring it while strengthening the chassis and upgrading the handling (not ricer **** like a fat wing). I plan on building this to be fun enjoyable car to drive that handles great, isnt slow(but do not plan for civic type R power to weight ratios), enjoyable ride that isn't to stiff
I plan on sticking with this car vs the others body styles of the 5th and 6th gen or the 94-01 integra because it weighs the least, its the shortest in length and shortest in height. Are there any reasons to go with the 6th gen civic hatch or coupe or integra coupe/sedan? The only reason I may wanna go with a different trim/body style/gen is for weight distribution, aerodynamics, weight, body/chassis strength/rigidity and lastly luxury features. My civic only comes with 2 speakers, does not have a sunroof, alarm, no power mirrors, windows or locks, I dont mind all of that but preferably Id have a sunroof, power locks with a key fob, and an alarm (I hear 90's civic sunroofs often leak, if its very hard to fully fix the leaks or it happens to almost all them then I dont want one)

So here is the full plan:
First I want to strengthen the chassis for longevity and improve handling using structural foam to reinforce the chassis, Weld the unibody seems, and buy chassis reinforcements (Will list them below).
I already have a 25.4mm God speed sway bar and subframe brace in the rear, plan on upgrading the front one a little larger too but havent decided on which one. A three point front strut bar. I will make a rear strut bar to fit over my 13.5" sub in the hatch. A rear tie bar. Vors SP1 16x7 rims. going with these because they are very light and I plan on running DWS 06+ continentals, which dont come in 15's. These tires obviously arent as good as max performance summer tire but where i live its rainy for half the year or so and these tires get very good lap times. I have coilovers on my car ATM, may sell them and get ones that arent as stiff or may just go with lowering springs if I can only lower it .5"-1.125" max and aren't to stiff, anymore and ill be scrapping around town, am only lowering to improve handling, I guess I like the look too but thats not as important as function.
Engine wise I plan on going with a K swap, not because its what everyones doing right now but because it has lots of support/following, the parts will always be there, gets better mileage and makes more hp and torque than B series which are becoming less common now, etc. Any K series Im sure ill be happy with the power but Id prefer going the k20A/A2/Z1/Z3, these seem perfect because they're very reliable, the power to weight ratio is pretty much what I want assuming my car weights 2425-2485lbs with all my modifications plus my body weight. Also I prefer a k20 over a 24 due to it getting better mileage, and being just a little bit shorter and a tiny bit lighter which will just improve handling a tiny bit more. For a tranny I want to go with a PNN4 or PNN3, with a X2M5 being the last option id go with. The PNN4/3 both have LSD's which Id like with the 6 gears. I am very aware these are a lot more expensive than the 5 speeds. I plan on getting an aftermarket header and welding a custom exhaust system, Will likely get a C-A-I as well, these arent for the power gains they are just so the engine gets all the air/flow it needs to run healthy plus Itll sound better. This is about it for upgrades to make it handle better and be quicker, may possibly get a lighter hood but thatd be one of the last things id do due to it not making much of a difference. Any other suggestions for to achieve better handling Id love to hear, thank you all.

So thats about it for performance, for interior/exterior I plan on getting a lip kit for the bumper, nothing flashy but something that will help with down force and look good/stock or at least similar to stock. Mud flaps just to protect the paint job (Color is Tahitian green pearl), fog lights, for tint either 35%FW, 20%RW 15% RWS, maybe 85% tint on the front windshield too, or 50%FW, 35%RW, 25-30%RWS, Both these will have a black 5%tint strip across the front windshield (FW=Front windows, RW=Rear windows, RWS+Rear windshield), Del sol seats (because they're affordable compared to recaros and hug well), leather rear integra seats, I will have 2 rear seats instead of 3, which Id prefer, plus they hold people better, are nicer and have a place to put stuff in the middle. I have the lowest trim EG so any nicer parts I can put into the interior from higher trims or the integra Id love to do that, if anyone knows of any thatd be cool. I have laid down a little 1/4th" foam sound deadening, it doesnt weigh anything and works 4-5/10 if you do a pretty good job, 8/10 if you do a great job/double down on some spots. Will do this and then get a new carpet kit to kill as much noise as possible, its pretty loud on the hw atm. Im also installing a JL 13.5" 600 watt sub and 800 watt rock fosgate amp, two 6.5" JL audio speakers for the front and two 5.25" ones in the back.

Any suggestions at all would be awesome thank you all

punk0mi

I am a purist, so, an EG getting hacked up for K series kind of breaks my heart a bit...but I get the draw of the K swap FWIW.

Overall the EG chassis is good. I wouldn't waste my time on structural foam or welding seams. You will get more out the cross members and braces than those methods IMHO. Also your money would be better spent on chassis prep/rust repair (if any) and a good undercoating.

I have an EG SI hatch and it is the only hatch that has a moonroof. The EX coupe has a sunroof, but it is slightly different. Power locks can be done easily...I converted my SI to power locks and windows. (My build thread is here --> https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...ghost-3355302/) Just need the parts of an EG EX Coupe and wire it in correctly. Del Sol seats are just OK...the reasoning in my mind is the majority of them are over 20+ years old and are likely beat. But if you can source a clean set - more power to you! If you go aftermarket on seats, DO NOT CHEAP OUT. Seats are part of the life safety system of your car and too many of these "cheap" racing seats will do more harm if in an accident.

I put deadener in my EG to top to bottom...worth it.

Can't beat Koni Yellows and GC coilovers...but I recently built an EK with Koni Orange shocks with Eibach springs and it was a decent ride with about only 3/4" drop.

As far as interior parts from a DC2...not much fit other than the seats. I've seen DC2 dashes put in EG's, but felt it looked awkward.

Chance EG

• Leaking sunroofs is only a problem with Del Sols, or with cars where someone attempted to retrofit a sunroof into a car that didn't come with one from the factory - Many years ago that was a semi-popular thing to attempt that never went well, unless they swapped the whole roof skin over from an Si.
• K swap as you've pointed out is 100% the way to go these days. There's almost no reason to even consider doing a B swap anymore unless you were already heavily invested in B series parts, same with D series.
• Handling will be completely unaffected between a K20 and K24 sitting in your engine bay.
• There actually is significant weight savings going from an OEM to a CF/Kevlar/Fiberglass hood. The OEM hoods are deceptively heavy.
• On that same note though, I wouldn't hyperanalyze weight savings like you're doing if you're also putting in sound deadening or especially an amp/sub. Unless you decide one day to load the car up with a tub of bricks, it's always going to weigh several hundred pounds under what any modern 4 cylinder weighs. I absolutely wouldn't go through the hassle and cost of switching to a different chassis unless your current one is banged up beyond being repairable at a good cost.

juda

Alright I hear what you guys are saying, I think I will stay with the EG VX, The chassis has just about no rust as far as I can tell (ive put it on the lift a few times and took the carpet kit out, no rust anywhere.) I think ill still weld the seems if any are easy to get to, if its gonna be a hassle for no improvement/longevity then I wont. I now just plan on using expanding foam under the trim pieces (like the long one that runs from the end of the door to the trunk) to kill sound and stop little rattlings. I know that wont strengthen the chassis but yea. Also the chassis's strength has been a concern to me because when I pull in and out of my driveway I have to take it at a little bit of an angle so I dont scrape, when I take it at that angle you can hear the chassis flex and its pretty loud. Im also 99% sure the unibody is totally fine, it has a clean title plus it only had two owners, during everything ive done on the car (Adding rear sway bar, brakes, oil changes on a lift, laying down sound deadening under the carpet and rear seats, adjusting the coil overs, etc) I havent seen any damage or anything rusty or even looking weird or brand new(in case it was replaced). So it bugs me how much flexing the unibody does and this doesn't matter really at all but its also loud. So because of that is why I wanted to strengthen the body as much as possible.
For the moon roof I am 100% fine without it, I was just considering a 2023 civic Si over doing this build and that was one of the first things I noticed just based off looks. Thank you for the door locks information I plan on doing that now.
Also itd be cool to make my passenger door automatic and keep mine manual, is that possible? And what sound deadening did you go with? the stuff I use is alright like I said, I got enough to do the whole floor from the fire wall to under the seats, since its foam it weighed maybe a lb, maybe 12 ounces even.
I kinda want to sell my coilovers and get lowering springs because these coil overs are so stuff and cant really get any softer, Id also like the car to ride higher and they cant go much higher, and lastly I wouldn't be changing the ride height and stiffness all the time, its cool you get to choose where you want it and be able to change it whenever but I dont wanna pay twice as much for that and only adjust it 2 maybe 3 times in the beginning and then never adjust them again.
Also do you think a K20 swap will negatively effect the handling? I was told it wouldn't really because you're adding the weight over the tires that steer and pull the car so having more weight on top of those tires will increase handling but im not 100% sure, what do you guys think?
Also I know the swap. + my sub and amp. + my body weight and my girlfriends too half the time, Will add 100s of lbs, Im assuming the swap and sub+amp,wiring,etc will add anywhere from 165-225 lbs, I weight just under 150, my girl weighs 115, so all together thats 490 lbs (on the high side) 490+ 2100 = 2600lbs basically. So i know taking off idk 15-25, maybe even 30 lbs is not going to be noticeable, I just figured the front end is gaining about 110-160lbs while the back is gaining only 50-55, so if weight reduction was going to happen Id assume to do the hood to get closer to 50/50 weight distribution and not 65/35. I noticed the hood was pretty heavy, especially compared to new civic hoods and the rest of the plastic body pieces on the EG. But if you guys think it would be better to loose weight in the back please let me know and why. Also besides the 'tailgate' I dont know where the rear end could loose weight, I already dont have a spare tire, not even one of those boards to lay in the trunk to cover the spare tire.
So thank you all for any help I appreciate it and appreciate those who have helped so far, exactly the knowledge im looks for you guys are awesome.

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

Sell the vx to someone who knows what it is and buy a new SI.

Sic_DA_Nine

i highly doubt you hear chassis flex going up and down your driveway.
what you are probably hearing is creaky suspension components.

you seem to be thinking way too much for what i believe you are trying to achieve.
my suggestion is to buy the powerplant you want and refresh/upgrade suspension components

drive the damn thing, and if you are not satisfied with something, then upgrade.

thinking about stitch welding and expanding foam is to me, is way overboard for a street car

there is no reason to talk about vehicle weight since you you will be adding a sound system in the vehicle.

im with above, sell the car to someone and buy the 23 civic

hwyix

iTrader: (1)

It's actually pretty common to go in a driveway at 45 angle and hear a car flex. Hatch back cars seem to be the worst offenders. You can hear the hatch creak especial if it's on older car with worn weathering stripping, hinges, latches etc...

punk0mi

I used a product from Noico. Whatever you go with, make sure it is not asphalt based. The Noico stuff is butyl based. I also used a foam based deadener for the roof of the cabin.

B00STD

Check my thread, I pulled out all the old sound deadening and installed new KillMat (probably same as noico), it helped a decent amount and the net weight increase was….only 9 pounds. 92’ civic eg hatch. I covered the entire floorplan, all trunk minus where spare tire goes, rear wheel wells, and had a little left over to put some in doors. This had some smell when it arrived but didn’t last long so I’d use it again, unlike FatMat which I used before and it was terrible - stay away from that product I installed it in a mustang and had a terrible chemical smell and gave me massive migraine headaches for weeks. Smell was there months later and it was one of the biggest things I regret buying.