Confusing idle/throttle problem
#1
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Confusing idle/throttle problem
So as many of you know, my car bogs at various points. Today, I picked up a new TPS sensor and LS throttle body and put them on. Before my car would bog horribly at cold start and when launching but now it's different. Now whenever I hit the throttle it bogs for like 1 second then jerks the whole car forward. This happens on every shift. The idle also is near non exsistant falling to around 200 at some points or even dying. I just can't seem to figure out what else it could be. I've replaced my 02 sensor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, now tps sensor, and throttle body. Any ideas anyone? I just want my car to run decently
#3
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So as many of you know, my car bogs at various points. Today, I picked up a new TPS sensor and LS throttle body and put them on. Before my car would bog horribly at cold start and when launching but now it's different. Now whenever I hit the throttle it bogs for like 1 second then jerks the whole car forward. This happens on every shift. The idle also is near non exsistant falling to around 200 at some points or even dying. I just can't seem to figure out what else it could be. I've replaced my 02 sensor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, now tps sensor, and throttle body. Any ideas anyone? I just want my car to run decently
Check you have the new tps seated correctly and is actually turning with the throttle shaft.
It can be easily ,ounted with the little acuator arm in the wrong side of the throttle push rod. Best to actually get a dc volt meter and check it correctly and is also calibrated correctly in the idle position to about 0.5 to 0.65 volts and also reads 5.0 vdc on wide open throttle settings. There are three wires on it, one is ground, one is a +fixed 5dvc source and the other is the variable 0.5 to 5.0 control wire. i forget which is which right now, but get a meter probe (pin) and stick it in the wires to read them. if you got it wrong, it will present a computer error code eventually.
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The TPS checks out right. I cleaned the IACV today and still have the same problem. I was going to clean the FITV, but with my LS Throttle body I believed it deleted it. I don't know what else it could be :S. Some more symptoms are, when my car is cold started it starts, idles at like 200 to 300 for under 2 seconds then dies. I have to constantly restart my car to keep it going in the morning. After I back out of my drive way then put it in first, I have to restart it again other wise it boggs really bad. The bogging does not end there though, after it's at running temp and it's parked, I can idle for around 2 minutes at the right RPM 800, then it drops to 200-300, then I have to restart it cause it boggs like it's the morning. On the highway, when cruising for about 5-10 minutes, the car boggs again, then I have to turn it off and on again to get it to run normal again. I know it's a mouthful :S
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Alright so another update after messing with it. I sprayed TB cleaner around my intake and TB gasket to see if there was a vacuum leak and from the top of the intake there is none, should I really find a way to get around to the bottom? the bogging is weird, whenever I put a little gas on it, and leave it there it bogs then makes a boom from inside the intake even :S I know that's not good. Any ideas?
#13
There should be a vacuum diagram LABEL on the underside of the hood. Check for hoses that are cracked, loose , holes, plugged off, etc. If your car is running you can move the lines around and listen to idle changes
...or spray brake cleaner/carb&TB clean/starter fluid (i haven't tried any of them) and listen for changes.
...or spray brake cleaner/carb&TB clean/starter fluid (i haven't tried any of them) and listen for changes.
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Ok so I went out again, and found that the z6 manifold I have has a little black solenoid at he end away from the throttle body. It's not the IACV, I know that, but it had a line that was going to no where, and so did my break booster so I put it there. The solenoid has no sensor plugged into it and I can't seem to see one. Any ideas what that's for?
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Well, I flushed my coolant, and it seems to run a little better. The idle still starts at like 200, goes up to like 1000, then drops back down. Any ideas?
#21
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i was having the same problem after i did my si head swap, when i put my p28 in it mostly went away.. the only thing mine does now is jumps idle up and down when its between 1500-2000rpms even moving.. maby try that? cause my ecu ended up getting wet..