Corksil

[http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/b-seri...sion-info.html

If you're going to sleeve the block, I don't think you need a block guard. I hear they cut down valuable coolant flow with no real strength advantage you can count on. I would definitely recommend a girdle, the oem b20 crank isn't designed for high rpm vtec so it's operating out of spec.

laptop is dying, i'll post the other half of this reply laters.

sliiiiced

I was looking at crower cranks for b20's. i figured a girdle would still help out a lot. what would be my rpm range with that setup?

LuczOr

Sounds to me like you don't really know what you're doing. Going for a 300+ hp NA build without experience or someone experienced to help you is a bad idea. Reading this thread, it seems you don't even know what parts you need to upgrade to get to 300 hp. I suggest learning a bit more about engines before you try to build a monster. Thats my two cents.

On a more positive note, for 300 hp, you'll basically need compression and cam lift and duration to achieve it. The rest of the parts will simply need to SURVIVE that 300 hp. So get forged internals and all that beefy shyt for the block. Ported/polished head will give you better flow for more power too. For that 300hp, I would suggest 12:1 compression or more. A full skunk2 head should have no problem surviving the power and revs. Probably skunk2 pro2 or pro3 camshafts to give you the lift and duration. Dual springs/high comp valves/retainers/keepers/seals/blahblah. After all that, it still might not do 300hp. I've never done a b20vtec build so I'm not sure how it would turn out, but thats what I would do.

sliiiiced

Ive got everything under control, i have 3 people helping me learn what to do. Not doing it for me or telling me what to do. ive had enough with basic bolt ons and maybe a camshaft upgrade. im going big now.

Corksil

this is on the money ^^

crower cranks.. you mean oem specification? they would be an identical copy to stroke as an oem camshaft, so rpm range would have nothing to do with that. rpm rev range would be coming from your tuning (ECU) which would would need hondata software or something aftermarket to tune your ecu. while you were tuning the fuel maps etc for finding the best power on a dyno, i'm sure there'd be options for setting a rev limiter.

if you build up everything, bumping the rev limiter up a bit wouldn't hurt, assuming you could actually have power above your ecu's pre-set limit.

i'm just gonna point out too, that 300hp on a street car seems a little.... erm... retarded. You don't exactly need that power to get to school/work or the store on the corner. it would be overkill (which is cool and all) but would cost you lots in gas. also pointing out you couldn't exactly loan your car to your girlfriend because it would probably be difficult to drive, stiff clutch and stuff like that. not too mention waaaaaaaay more go fast and torque than the mere mortal driver nowadays is used t0.

sliiiiced

yeah ive been reading a lot. And seems to be the average tuner in my area has 200 whp maybe... so my goal will probably be around 200+, ive also read that if i get too long of a stroke it can be bad. so, a lightened crank will be just right