Rhood

My 1998 Civic Ex is showing Code 1362 (TDC sensor) no continuity or ohms on pin 3 & 7 I clear the code but it came back after a few weeks (Intermittent failure ?) car runs great so now I clean and check the connector and wires and clear the code again if it returns again what would be the problem

Thanks

Former User

What does this mean? What tests did you do and what were the readings?

Rhood

Check for open in CKP/TDC/CYP sensor measure resistance between the terminals 3 &7 C120 connector both where open

Maybe a bad sensor in the distributor if so is there a DIY for changing out the distributor is it hard to do ?

Former User

Check whether the open is in the two sensor wires in the wire harness versus inside the distributor.

Rhood

I was reading 403 ohms on 3 & 7 to the distributor I will check the other end soon
Thanks for the help

Former User

This tells you the open is in one of the two wires in the harness.

Rhood

In the harness back to the pcm ?

Rhood

Pins 3 & 7 back to the pcm reading ohms what else should I check for ?

Former User

What does this mean? Tell what you did and the readings.

Rhood

I ohm out 3 & 7 back thur the harness reading about 9.7 ohms
Sorry but I am a bit confused about checking the harness should I disconnect it from the computer first ?

Former User

1) At the unplugged distributor connector, what is the resistance between the two TDC sensor wires?

2) At the unplugged ECU connector (with the distributor connector plugged in), what is the resistance between the two TDC sensor wires?

3) At the unplugged ECU connector (with the distributor connector plugged in), do you measure continuity to body ground (short) at either of the two TDC sensor wires?

Rhood

Thanks Ron as clear as mud will do it tonight
# 1 (403 ohms ) and no continuity
# 2 (340 ohms ) and no continuity
# 3 no continuity & no short

Former User

Repeat #2. The resistance for #1 and #2 should be similar and within the 350-700 Ohm range. If a repeat of #2 falls within the acceptable range, then the next step is to swap in a known good ECU to see whether the CEL goes away.

Rhood

Ok #2 Ok it runs between 220 and 362 ohms whats next

BTW I cleared the CEL and it has not come back on yet it takes a few weeks to come back on

Former User

The variable out of range reading for #2 is a concern. If the Ohm reading is steady for #1, but not for #2, then there's a wire problem. If you unplug both the ECU and the distributor connectors, what is the ECU-distributor connector resistance for each wire?

Rhood

I think I got the wrong plug on the pcm will check again

Former User

Rhood

There are 4 plugs going into the pcm one small grey one a blue one and two other grey ones ?

Former User

Only one ECU connector (C) looks like the one in the diagram and has the wire colors pinned in those locations.

Rhood

Ok thanks I will give it one more try I will also unplugged both ends and ohm out both pins too

Rhood

Took it to Honda for an oil change today when I got it back CEL was on again they check it and told me it a sensor in with the timing belt had the timing belts change 6 month ago by them so they are going work with me and repair it for $220.00 parts and labor. ??????? I will keep you posted thanks for all the help

Former User

Whoa buddy. Don't get off track. You already know what code is thrown, so you've learned nothing new. And no, the code has nothing to do with the timing belt. It's an electrical problem in the TDC sensor circuit. See the posts in your thread.

Rhood

well it all fixed will have the old sensor in my hand tomorrow when I pick it up the sensor was somewhere near the TB

Former User

??
What test showed the TDC sensor is bad?
The TDC sensor is inside the distributor.

Rhood

Ok here is the bad sensor Crank Position Sensor



Part #37500-P2F-A01