Changing out timing belt and have questions on cam and crank seals?
03-16-2010, 01:50 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Changing out timing belt and have questions on cam and crank seals?
Should I replace these while I am in there? 1998 Civic has 78K miles on it. Not sure if I should replace it while in there or what. How easy is it to replace the crank seal, and do I need any special glue - maybe permatex grey? How about the cam seal? Simple as popping out and installing a new one? Also, what size socket, or perhaps other method should I use to drive the new ones in? Thanks!!!
03-16-2010, 02:08 PM
#2
Re: Changing out timing belt and have questions on cam and crank seals?
I change out the seals personally just because I am working in the area. The cam seal is easy, just remove the cam gear and cam cap. The oil pump seal is a bit harder, which requires the removal of the oil pump which also means dropping the oil pan.
03-16-2010, 02:23 PM
#3
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Re: Changing out timing belt and have questions on cam and crank seals?
Oil pump seal? I was just going to change out the cam and crank seals while redoing the timing belt. Do I have to do the oil pump seal too?
Also, when you say that their are "caps" what exactly do you mean? Is there a rear cam seal, or is that where the dizzy shaft goes into the hole? Last time I had the dizzy out I really did not notice a rear cam seal. If there is one how do you get it out? Thanks again!
03-16-2010, 03:26 PM
#4
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Re: Changing out timing belt and have questions on cam and crank seals?
SOHC-Yeah, dizzy is on the other end. You don't need to remove the cap to replace the cam seal IF you have an appropriate tool (pick/scribe) to pull the old one out with. If you don't, then removing the cam cap will be necessary. Don't let that scare you though, it's only like 4 more bolts I think.
For the oil pump, same thing IF you have something to remove the old seal with. If not, removing the pump is necessary. That seal is your front main seal BUT if you do remove the oil pump there is an O ring that sits between the pump itself and the block that you may want to replace. I got a complete oil pump kit for about $7 and change which included the front main seal and the necessary O rings to replace the ones related to the pump.
For the rear main seal, same thing if you have something to remove it with you're good to go and if not then you'll more than likely have to remove the rear main seal housing (which also requires removal of the oil pan).
If you do all of the above with removal of everything listed, you may want to go ahead and replace the oil pan seal. Also, I've heard that permatex grey is equivalent to hondabond so that should work. Just remember that the more you apply the more it will be squeezed out when you bolt on whatever part you are working with.
For the oil pump, same thing IF you have something to remove the old seal with. If not, removing the pump is necessary. That seal is your front main seal BUT if you do remove the oil pump there is an O ring that sits between the pump itself and the block that you may want to replace. I got a complete oil pump kit for about $7 and change which included the front main seal and the necessary O rings to replace the ones related to the pump.
For the rear main seal, same thing if you have something to remove it with you're good to go and if not then you'll more than likely have to remove the rear main seal housing (which also requires removal of the oil pan).
If you do all of the above with removal of everything listed, you may want to go ahead and replace the oil pan seal. Also, I've heard that permatex grey is equivalent to hondabond so that should work. Just remember that the more you apply the more it will be squeezed out when you bolt on whatever part you are working with.
03-16-2010, 03:34 PM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Changing out timing belt and have questions on cam and crank seals?
SOHC-Yeah, dizzy is on the other end. You don't need to remove the cap to replace the cam seal IF you have an appropriate tool (pick/scribe) to pull the old one out with. If you don't, then removing the cam cap will be necessary. Don't let that scare you though, it's only like 4 more bolts I think.
For the oil pump, same thing IF you have something to remove the old seal with. If not, removing the pump is necessary. That seal is your front main seal BUT if you do remove the oil pump there is an O ring that sits between the pump itself and the block that you may want to replace. I got a complete oil pump kit for about $7 and change which included the front main seal and the necessary O rings to replace the ones related to the pump.
For the rear main seal, same thing if you have something to remove it with you're good to go and if not then you'll more than likely have to remove the rear main seal housing (which also requires removal of the oil pan).
If you do all of the above with removal of everything listed, you may want to go ahead and replace the oil pan seal. Also, I've heard that permatex grey is equivalent to hondabond so that should work. Just remember that the more you apply the more it will be squeezed out when you bolt on whatever part you are working with.
For the oil pump, same thing IF you have something to remove the old seal with. If not, removing the pump is necessary. That seal is your front main seal BUT if you do remove the oil pump there is an O ring that sits between the pump itself and the block that you may want to replace. I got a complete oil pump kit for about $7 and change which included the front main seal and the necessary O rings to replace the ones related to the pump.
For the rear main seal, same thing if you have something to remove it with you're good to go and if not then you'll more than likely have to remove the rear main seal housing (which also requires removal of the oil pan).
If you do all of the above with removal of everything listed, you may want to go ahead and replace the oil pan seal. Also, I've heard that permatex grey is equivalent to hondabond so that should work. Just remember that the more you apply the more it will be squeezed out when you bolt on whatever part you are working with.
Thanks! So the front main seal is also the oil pump seal? Weird. I don't plan on pulling the pan and pump. So basically, like older chevys etc., I can just yank the one piece seal out from the front main and then tap the new one in?
Don't plan on doing the main rear as I don't want to pull the tranny (which I assume you have to do).
I also assume that if I am replacing the timing belt, etc. that I need to align all the marks so that its at TDC, lock out the engine, pull the crank nut, AND the cam nut before pulling the belt. Then pull the cam and crank pulleys and replace the seals, correct?
When you say that the cam has a cap is that on the front (belt side) or rear? If on rear I assume you pull the dizzy? If not, then does the rear have a seal, or is it just the front? Thanks again!!!!
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