car rattles and shakes.
12-05-2005, 03:49 PM
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car rattles and shakes.
i have had this problem for quite a while. at first, i thought it was just the stiff motor mounts from when i got my swap but i think its more than that. when i drive, the car rattles and shakes insanely. i was thinking mabe its cause the wheels werent balanced (but they are). so, when it started to snow, i had to switch to steelies and thats when i found a little problem. the front left wheel wiggles? after i bolted the lug nuts, i could still shake the wheel as if its not bolted all the way? it only goes for that wheel. that may also be the reason why when i drive, all of the rattling and shaking comes from the left side of the car (door panel shakes REAL badly). mabe its the wheel bearing? can anyone help me out? car gets annoying
12-05-2005, 04:44 PM
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Re: car rattles and shakes. (blackie)
The cost of replacing a single front bearing can be anywhere from $50 to $600, depending on what you're willing to do yourself, as well as what others can do for you (including bending you over).
The biggest bitch of the whole process is correctly pressing and pulling your hub from your bearing, and your bearing from the knuckle. Removing the Ball Joints can be a PITA as well (There is an actual Tool called a Pickle Fork. One from your kitchen might not work). Sometimes the Axle takes effort to get back into the hub. The rest is simple wrenchwork... unless the bolts are rusted...
Even if you know someone with a hydraulic press, you need the proper size drivers to push the parts in/out. In addition to that, your car will be disabled while you take your knuckle(s) off. I did a test pricing of all the tools that appear on Helm's Special Tool list for the 96-00 Civic Front Knuckle/hub assembly... $450+!!!!, and that doesn't include a Bearing Separator (another $60) and Hydraulic Press.
There is a tool called "Hub Tamer" made by OTC, which allows for hub removal without needing to remove the knuckle. I have not yet found a single article or review or spec sheet that confirms that this tool can also be used to remove/replace bearings from the knuckle. If anyone knows whether it does or not, please enlighten... This tool set can be anywhere from $250-550.
Hydraulic presses are available for anywhere from $200-$$$$$. It all depends on size, power, and variability of dimension (including stroke length).
There are some bearing driver sets available. I'm not exactly sure what diameters are needed, nor how usable they are as hand tools (BFH, baby!!!
). They run anywhere from $30-up.
Most gurus/hotrodders pay others to do this ****... it's that big of a PITA, unless you already have the tools you need. If this is your only vehicle, get a couple opinions on what's wrong, and find the common suspects. Try to find a place that will let you bring in the replacement parts. Front bearings for most Civics are $40-60. Front Hubs (if yours is warped or cracked) are hard to find anywhere other than a Hondealer. They run about $120-160. Be sure to get your old parts back, even if you have no intention of using them. This will help ensure that they actually replaced something (not fully, though), and you might be able to reuse your lug studs ($12 )... not really.
Let us know how it gets handled... if your bearings are even shot. Either way, make sure all bolts are torqued to spec and get an alignment done when everything's complete. GL
JasonGhostz
The biggest bitch of the whole process is correctly pressing and pulling your hub from your bearing, and your bearing from the knuckle. Removing the Ball Joints can be a PITA as well (There is an actual Tool called a Pickle Fork. One from your kitchen might not work). Sometimes the Axle takes effort to get back into the hub. The rest is simple wrenchwork... unless the bolts are rusted...
Even if you know someone with a hydraulic press, you need the proper size drivers to push the parts in/out. In addition to that, your car will be disabled while you take your knuckle(s) off. I did a test pricing of all the tools that appear on Helm's Special Tool list for the 96-00 Civic Front Knuckle/hub assembly... $450+!!!!, and that doesn't include a Bearing Separator (another $60) and Hydraulic Press.
There is a tool called "Hub Tamer" made by OTC, which allows for hub removal without needing to remove the knuckle. I have not yet found a single article or review or spec sheet that confirms that this tool can also be used to remove/replace bearings from the knuckle. If anyone knows whether it does or not, please enlighten... This tool set can be anywhere from $250-550.
Hydraulic presses are available for anywhere from $200-$$$$$. It all depends on size, power, and variability of dimension (including stroke length).
There are some bearing driver sets available. I'm not exactly sure what diameters are needed, nor how usable they are as hand tools (BFH, baby!!!
). They run anywhere from $30-up.Most gurus/hotrodders pay others to do this ****... it's that big of a PITA, unless you already have the tools you need. If this is your only vehicle, get a couple opinions on what's wrong, and find the common suspects. Try to find a place that will let you bring in the replacement parts. Front bearings for most Civics are $40-60. Front Hubs (if yours is warped or cracked) are hard to find anywhere other than a Hondealer. They run about $120-160. Be sure to get your old parts back, even if you have no intention of using them. This will help ensure that they actually replaced something (not fully, though), and you might be able to reuse your lug studs ($12
)... not really.Let us know how it gets handled... if your bearings are even shot. Either way, make sure all bolts are torqued to spec and get an alignment done when everything's complete. GL
JasonGhostz
12-05-2005, 09:35 PM
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wow haha thats alot of information. thank tho. ill try to find some time to get out and see what shops/people have to say about it. i was also wondering if its bad to keep driving on it? hopefully this isnt such a big deal as it sounds like so far...
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12-06-2005, 09:07 AM
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a friend of mine replaces the bearings with a chisel and a BFH... i haven't attempted this myself since i haven't had any bad wheel bearings (although I know the sound and movement that comes with it from others cars)... i guess that's the least expensive option but you might mess up a few times before you can do it no problem.. when it comes to this method you gotta know what you're doing and it's best to watch someone do it a few times so that you get the hang of it
btw, your problem could be a wheel bearing, upper control arm, bad bushings, etc. Could be a number of things that allow the tire assembly to dislocate... while you're moving the tire, check out where the movement occurs and go from there
to check wheel bearing, make sure the tire is perpendicular to the car itself (i.e. straight), grab one hand on top and one on bottom of the tire, and try to move it... if it moves then you got a bad wheel bearing... also when there's a bad wheel bearing you'll hear this whooooling sound while the car is moving... i'm thinking something else is the problem here but i have to be there in order to see what's really going on
let us know what turns out to be the problem..
good luck to you!
btw, your problem could be a wheel bearing, upper control arm, bad bushings, etc. Could be a number of things that allow the tire assembly to dislocate... while you're moving the tire, check out where the movement occurs and go from there
to check wheel bearing, make sure the tire is perpendicular to the car itself (i.e. straight), grab one hand on top and one on bottom of the tire, and try to move it... if it moves then you got a bad wheel bearing... also when there's a bad wheel bearing you'll hear this whooooling sound while the car is moving... i'm thinking something else is the problem here but i have to be there in order to see what's really going on
let us know what turns out to be the problem..
good luck to you!
12-06-2005, 02:05 PM
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i wouldnt have the experience and tools to do this but from what jason guys said, is it really that expensive? also, when the wheel is str8 and the car is jacked up (lug nuts already tightened) i can shake the wheel. what i mean by this is that i would grab the front of the tire with my left hand and the back of the tire with my right hand (as if im taking the wheel off) i can push with my left hand and pull with my right hand at the same time (shaking it?) and it will wiggle and move as if the lug nuts are losse. i hope this is a better description. thank you everyone with the helpful replies!
12-06-2005, 02:31 PM
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Re: (blackie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt have the experience and tools to do this but from what jason guys said, is it really that expensive?</TD></TR></TABLE>
With a hydraulic press, here's what one needs to do (edit: added PITA's):
Loosen lug nuts
Raise Vehicle
Remove Wheel
Remove Caliper Assembly
Remove Rotor ** potential PITA **
Remove Ball Joints ** PITA **
Remove Knuckle/Bearing/Hub assembly (and ABS Sensor, if applicable) ** PITA **
Press out old Hub from Bearing ** PITA **
Press out old Bearing from Knuckle ** PITA **
Press new Bearing into Knuckle ** PITA **
Press new Hub into Bearing ** PITA **
Reattach Knuckle & Hub/Axle (and ABS Sensor, if applicable) ** PITA **
Reattach Ball Joints ** PITA **
Reattach Rotor
Reattach Caliper ** potential PITA **
Mount wheel
Lower Vehicle
Torque Lug Nuts
Rape Customer with Labor costs ** PITA payback **
... also some miscellaneous stuff like Circlips and High-Shoulder Stake Nuts (axle nuts)...
All of the above could take anywhere from 1.5 to 4 hours (even longer without the press), depending on how organized your mechanics are, and how highly prioritized your vehicle's work is (in their opinion). If they take more than 4 hours, it's likely that the shop ran into problems, got backed up, or is simply milking their cash cow. In addition to the labor, several of the components might need to be replaced. When the Front Bearings go bad, sometimes the Hub can be saved. But if a bad Bearing caused damage to the Hub or Knuckle, that's more $$$...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also, when the wheel is str8 and the car is jacked up (lug nuts already tightened) i can shake the wheel. what i mean by this is that i would grab the front of the tire with my left hand and the back of the tire with my right hand (as if im taking the wheel off) i can push with my left hand and pull with my right hand at the same time (shaking it?) and it will wiggle and move as if the lug nuts are losse. i hope this is a better description. thank you everyone with the helpful replies!</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is almost conclusive evidence that your Knuckle/Bearing/Hub assembly is bad (most typically, only the Bearing inside the assembly). The thing that sucks is that the only way to "check for certain" on this assembly is to take it apart (essentially breaking it)...
Get a lot of quotes, find a spot that'll let you bring in your own replacement parts, and get your old parts back. Try to get them to itemize your estimate with as much detail as they can practically provide.
Hubs are no joke. The Front hubs are much more prone to separation than the rears. Just imagine your car's behavior when a wheel locks up or falls off. These are the 2 most common results of hub failure, and each turn of the wheel brings it closer to that point. Depending on the severity of wear, this could mean anywhere from 0-3000 miles from now...
You should be experiencing a lot of wander when you try to drive straight (a lot of steering input when you "shouldn't" need it). The worse it gets, the closer you are to hub failure... Just keep speeds manageable, and take it easy around turns, especially with the problem wheel to the outside.
GL and let us know!
JasonGhostz
Modified by JasonGhostz at 3:44 PM 12/6/2005
Modified by JasonGhostz at 10:26 PM 12/6/2005
With a hydraulic press, here's what one needs to do (edit: added PITA's):
Loosen lug nuts
Raise Vehicle
Remove Wheel
Remove Caliper Assembly
Remove Rotor ** potential PITA **
Remove Ball Joints ** PITA **
Remove Knuckle/Bearing/Hub assembly (and ABS Sensor, if applicable) ** PITA **
Press out old Hub from Bearing ** PITA **
Press out old Bearing from Knuckle ** PITA **
Press new Bearing into Knuckle ** PITA **
Press new Hub into Bearing ** PITA **
Reattach Knuckle & Hub/Axle (and ABS Sensor, if applicable) ** PITA **
Reattach Ball Joints ** PITA **
Reattach Rotor
Reattach Caliper ** potential PITA **
Mount wheel
Lower Vehicle
Torque Lug Nuts
Rape Customer with Labor costs ** PITA payback **
... also some miscellaneous stuff like Circlips and High-Shoulder Stake Nuts (axle nuts)...
All of the above could take anywhere from 1.5 to 4 hours (even longer without the press), depending on how organized your mechanics are, and how highly prioritized your vehicle's work is (in their opinion). If they take more than 4 hours, it's likely that the shop ran into problems, got backed up, or is simply milking their cash cow. In addition to the labor, several of the components might need to be replaced. When the Front Bearings go bad, sometimes the Hub can be saved. But if a bad Bearing caused damage to the Hub or Knuckle, that's more $$$...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also, when the wheel is str8 and the car is jacked up (lug nuts already tightened) i can shake the wheel. what i mean by this is that i would grab the front of the tire with my left hand and the back of the tire with my right hand (as if im taking the wheel off) i can push with my left hand and pull with my right hand at the same time (shaking it?) and it will wiggle and move as if the lug nuts are losse. i hope this is a better description. thank you everyone with the helpful replies!</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is almost conclusive evidence that your Knuckle/Bearing/Hub assembly is bad (most typically, only the Bearing inside the assembly). The thing that sucks is that the only way to "check for certain" on this assembly is to take it apart (essentially breaking it)...
Get a lot of quotes, find a spot that'll let you bring in your own replacement parts, and get your old parts back. Try to get them to itemize your estimate with as much detail as they can practically provide.
Hubs are no joke. The Front hubs are much more prone to separation than the rears. Just imagine your car's behavior when a wheel locks up or falls off. These are the 2 most common results of hub failure, and each turn of the wheel brings it closer to that point. Depending on the severity of wear, this could mean anywhere from 0-3000 miles from now...
You should be experiencing a lot of wander when you try to drive straight (a lot of steering input when you "shouldn't" need it). The worse it gets, the closer you are to hub failure... Just keep speeds manageable, and take it easy around turns, especially with the problem wheel to the outside.
GL and let us know!
JasonGhostz
Modified by JasonGhostz at 3:44 PM 12/6/2005
Modified by JasonGhostz at 10:26 PM 12/6/2005
12-06-2005, 03:51 PM
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when you say "bring my own replacement parts", what would be a good way of getting cheap decent parts? also, this means that i have been driving on this for about 9,000 miles now...!! what would have been the cause of this? thanks for the good info again
12-06-2005, 04:18 PM
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Re: (blackie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you say "bring my own replacement parts", what would be a good way of getting cheap decent parts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Basically, take your car to a couple of shops. If there's a mechanic you trust, or a trusted friend who knows a trusted mechanic, take it there too. When you ask for an inspection, just tell them the symptoms. DO NOT TELL THEM WHAT YOU THINK IS WRONG until after they give your their estimate. This will help ensure against any "add on" costs.
After taking it to a shop or two, figure out what common parts/services they intend to replace/perform. Having multiple shops make the same assessment will help confirm your problem(s), as well as any solution(s).
If they *ALL* say "You need a new Bearing" or "You need a new Hub" or "You need a new Whatever", then shop the 'net for the best deals on your parts. Unless you know someone at the shop, they might charge anywhere from 1.5 to 3 times what you can find on the 'net. My suggestion is to start at a site like HondaPartsDeals.com or SLHondaParts.com or HondaAutomotiveParts.com. Use the interface to select your Model, Doors, etc. (keeping in mind any relevant swaps that may've been made (5 lug, larger rotors, etc)) and find the OEM PNs for your vehicle. Some non-dealer sites allow for catalog searches based on OEM PNs... Others make you jump through the same hoops to select the correct part.
Anyway, buy the parts, take them to the shop, have them look at them to make sure they're the correct ones, and don't forget to ask for your original parts back...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> also, this means that i have been driving on this for about 9,000 miles now...!! what would have been the cause of this? thanks for the good info again</TD></TR></TABLE>
Other than accidents, the Bearings most typically wear out with simple use and time. Some Bearings can go for 150k+. Others, barely 30k. Moisture, Dust, Driving Style, and Frequent Axle/Tranny changes can accelerate wear.
So you never told us what you drive... How many miles on your vehicle, and what mods (yourself as well as any prev. owners)?
JasonGhostz
Basically, take your car to a couple of shops. If there's a mechanic you trust, or a trusted friend who knows a trusted mechanic, take it there too. When you ask for an inspection, just tell them the symptoms. DO NOT TELL THEM WHAT YOU THINK IS WRONG until after they give your their estimate. This will help ensure against any "add on" costs.
After taking it to a shop or two, figure out what common parts/services they intend to replace/perform. Having multiple shops make the same assessment will help confirm your problem(s), as well as any solution(s).
If they *ALL* say "You need a new Bearing" or "You need a new Hub" or "You need a new Whatever", then shop the 'net for the best deals on your parts. Unless you know someone at the shop, they might charge anywhere from 1.5 to 3 times what you can find on the 'net. My suggestion is to start at a site like HondaPartsDeals.com or SLHondaParts.com or HondaAutomotiveParts.com. Use the interface to select your Model, Doors, etc. (keeping in mind any relevant swaps that may've been made (5 lug, larger rotors, etc)) and find the OEM PNs for your vehicle. Some non-dealer sites allow for catalog searches based on OEM PNs... Others make you jump through the same hoops to select the correct part.
Anyway, buy the parts, take them to the shop, have them look at them to make sure they're the correct ones, and don't forget to ask for your original parts back...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> also, this means that i have been driving on this for about 9,000 miles now...!! what would have been the cause of this? thanks for the good info again</TD></TR></TABLE>
Other than accidents, the Bearings most typically wear out with simple use and time. Some Bearings can go for 150k+. Others, barely 30k. Moisture, Dust, Driving Style, and Frequent Axle/Tranny changes can accelerate wear.
So you never told us what you drive... How many miles on your vehicle, and what mods (yourself as well as any prev. owners)?
JasonGhostz
12-06-2005, 07:30 PM
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99 civic coupe. 99 gsr swap. the axle on the same side went out so i had to get it replaced. im guessing about 70k on motor? type r lsd. ummm i recently got into an accident on the highway. guy caused me to lose control and hit the shoulder. hope that helps
12-06-2005, 08:44 PM
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Re: (blackie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the axle on the same side went out so i had to get it replaced... ummm i recently got into an accident on the highway. guy caused me to lose control and hit the shoulder. hope that helps</TD></TR></TABLE>
How many miles for your hubs, dood!
With these events disclosed, when did you first notice something weird? After the axle replacement, or after the accident? Did your accident involve the corner(s) in question?
Impact to the Knuckle/Bearing/Hub assembly caused by damaged axles and accidents are very good candidates for causing/worsening any problems. A vibrating tranny/motor can also contribute to excessive wear and/or early failure. Since you mentioned it's been acting up for 9000 miles, the recent accident is not likely to be the main cause of your problem, but might've made it worse. The shock from some big potholes could be great enough to knock an old assembly loose.
So... no Knuckle/Hub swaps, right? What Trim Level, MT/AT, ABS?
JasonGhostz
How many miles for your hubs, dood!
With these events disclosed, when did you first notice something weird? After the axle replacement, or after the accident? Did your accident involve the corner(s) in question?Impact to the Knuckle/Bearing/Hub assembly caused by damaged axles and accidents are very good candidates for causing/worsening any problems. A vibrating tranny/motor can also contribute to excessive wear and/or early failure. Since you mentioned it's been acting up for 9000 miles, the recent accident is not likely to be the main cause of your problem, but might've made it worse. The shock from some big potholes could be great enough to knock an old assembly loose.
So... no Knuckle/Hub swaps, right? What Trim Level, MT/AT, ABS?
JasonGhostz
12-06-2005, 08:53 PM
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mt no abs. the hubs havent been changed. this happened after my swap.. i have hasport motor mounts? "Did your accident involve the corner(s) in question?" i dont quite get this ? but when it happeend, i hit the rear left corner of my car. but then again, all the shaking happened ever since my motor swap.
12-06-2005, 09:18 PM
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Re: (blackie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mt no abs. the hubs havent been changed. this happened after my swap.. i have hasport motor mounts?... . but then again, all the shaking happened ever since my motor swap</TD></TR></TABLE>
In that case, you may need to replace your Hub as well. It's not likely that the axle replacement caused damage, but it could've contributed to your problem. It's more likely that the damage that caused your axle to fail to begin with also damaged your Hub/Bearing assembly.
Looseness in the Knuckle/Bearing/Hub is likely to come from one or a combination of:
- Play between the Axle and Hub
- Play between the Hub and Bearing
- Play between the Bearing and Knuckle
- Play within the Bearing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> "Did your accident involve the corner(s) in question?" i dont quite get this ? but when it happeend, i hit the rear left corner of my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I meant which corner of your car, not which corner of your neighborhood. Sorry for the ambiguity...
From here, there's not much we can do. If/when you take your car in, ask what the mechanic(s) did to determine the cause of the problem, and how they intend to fix it. This will help us help you as well...
GL, man!
JasonGhostz
In that case, you may need to replace your Hub as well. It's not likely that the axle replacement caused damage, but it could've contributed to your problem. It's more likely that the damage that caused your axle to fail to begin with also damaged your Hub/Bearing assembly.
Looseness in the Knuckle/Bearing/Hub is likely to come from one or a combination of:
- Play between the Axle and Hub
- Play between the Hub and Bearing
- Play between the Bearing and Knuckle
- Play within the Bearing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> "Did your accident involve the corner(s) in question?" i dont quite get this ? but when it happeend, i hit the rear left corner of my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I meant which corner of your car, not which corner of your neighborhood. Sorry for the ambiguity...
From here, there's not much we can do. If/when you take your car in, ask what the mechanic(s) did to determine the cause of the problem, and how they intend to fix it. This will help us help you as well...
GL, man!
JasonGhostz
12-07-2005, 01:34 PM
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one more thing, the insane shaking and vibration only occurs wen im pressing on the gas. when i let go theres just a lil twitch as if im running over little bumps but its not as bad as when im puttin gas on it
12-07-2005, 02:05 PM
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Re: (blackie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one more thing, the insane shaking and vibration only occurs wen im pressing on the gas. when i let go theres just a lil twitch as if im running over little bumps but its not as bad as when im puttin gas on it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm leaning more towards a bad connection between your Axle and Hub. Here's what I'm thinking...
When you step on the gas (in gear), your axle is trying to spin your Hub. If this connection is loose, it will feel like the wheel is stuttering, as the Axle tries to get the Hub to move with it.
When you let off of the gas (in gear), your axle will try to slow the spinning of the Hub (by means of engine braking/"downshifting"). If this connection is loose, it could also lead to a stuttering affect. It is not likely to be as pronounced as under acceleration, since there is typically less of a diference between the speed at which the Wheel/Hub is spinning, and the speed at which the axle WANTS to spin.
Someone suggested (on another thread) to note the car's behavior when OUT OF GEAR. Try this... Next time the car shakes, press in the clutch immediately (and let off the gas!). If the car still shakes, then it will reduce the likelihood that your Axle/Hub connection is bad. But if the shaking goes away (or is reduced significantly), then it's another BIG argument in favor of a bad Axle/Hub connection (damaged Hub, damaged Axle end, or both).
The thing that sucks is that most shops will require you to replace your Bearing if the Hub needs to be replaced (whether it needs to be or not). Unless they have the Hub Tamer (or similar), there aren't many other options, if at all. Otherwise, the Inner Race of the Front Bearing will come out of the assembly with the Hub, and need to be replaced...
But then again, what do I know.. I'm just a noob! I didn't know **** before July '05... Thanks to HT for making me think I know what I'm talking about!
Naah... really though, I'm almost out of brain cells on this one. Definitely get a professional opinion on what needs to be done, and try to get a couple of them. At this point, even if I were there with you, I don't think I can help out much more. But hang in there, and keep us in the know! GL
JasonGhostz
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm leaning more towards a bad connection between your Axle and Hub. Here's what I'm thinking...
When you step on the gas (in gear), your axle is trying to spin your Hub. If this connection is loose, it will feel like the wheel is stuttering, as the Axle tries to get the Hub to move with it.
When you let off of the gas (in gear), your axle will try to slow the spinning of the Hub (by means of engine braking/"downshifting"). If this connection is loose, it could also lead to a stuttering affect. It is not likely to be as pronounced as under acceleration, since there is typically less of a diference between the speed at which the Wheel/Hub is spinning, and the speed at which the axle WANTS to spin.
Someone suggested (on another thread) to note the car's behavior when OUT OF GEAR. Try this... Next time the car shakes, press in the clutch immediately (and let off the gas!). If the car still shakes, then it will reduce the likelihood that your Axle/Hub connection is bad. But if the shaking goes away (or is reduced significantly), then it's another BIG argument in favor of a bad Axle/Hub connection (damaged Hub, damaged Axle end, or both).
The thing that sucks is that most shops will require you to replace your Bearing if the Hub needs to be replaced (whether it needs to be or not). Unless they have the Hub Tamer (or similar), there aren't many other options, if at all. Otherwise, the Inner Race of the Front Bearing will come out of the assembly with the Hub, and need to be replaced...
But then again, what do I know.. I'm just a noob! I didn't know **** before July '05... Thanks to HT for making me think I know what I'm talking about!
Naah... really though, I'm almost out of brain cells on this one. Definitely get a professional opinion on what needs to be done, and try to get a couple of them. At this point, even if I were there with you, I don't think I can help out much more. But hang in there, and keep us in the know! GL
JasonGhostz
12-07-2005, 03:32 PM
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alright thanks alot man. i hope that when i go out there to see what really up, they dont give me some bs answers to get more $ out of it. only if i knew what EXACTLY was the problem. oh yea one more question, whats the worst that can happen if i keep driving like this?
12-07-2005, 09:12 PM
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Re: (blackie)
Bearing Siezure or Separation can result fron a failed bearing/hub assembly. The resulting damage can vary depending on speed and other conditions. You won't find many people who tell their stories of hub/bearing failure... for good reason... It is not a good experience.
Talk with some of your older friends/associates about who they trust to do work on their car (hopefully, Honda owners).
When you take your car in, tell them everything you've done in terms of your car's behavior, mods, and your own inspection. Don't tell them what you think it is until after they tell you what they think it is. Going to multiple shops will help you determine which are the potential "add-on" costs. But with all that said, there might be a lot of things other than your Hub/Bearing/Knuckle/(Axle?) that might need work.
It's gonna take time, effort, and $$$. Keep your driving well moderated until then... GL!
JasonGhostz
Talk with some of your older friends/associates about who they trust to do work on their car (hopefully, Honda owners).
When you take your car in, tell them everything you've done in terms of your car's behavior, mods, and your own inspection. Don't tell them what you think it is until after they tell you what they think it is. Going to multiple shops will help you determine which are the potential "add-on" costs. But with all that said, there might be a lot of things other than your Hub/Bearing/Knuckle/(Axle?) that might need work.
It's gonna take time, effort, and $$$. Keep your driving well moderated until then... GL!
JasonGhostz
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