michaelneff

I just did a new timing belt on my 2000 Civic EX. Can I put the cam shaft 180 degrees out of time Even when the “UP” on the cam is up?

Basically I am worndering can intake valves be open exhaust be closed or vise versa even when "UP" is up.

Yes, I put #1 cyclinder fully compressed.

ThE HeLLRaZoR

NO! The sprocket has a Keyway and can only attach to the Camshaft 1 way.

sleepyaccord96

no way possible.

michaelneff

Okay, thanks. Then I have something going on to where my car wont start for some reason.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

It's possible to force your distributor to be out 180degrees...or put on the plug wires out of order by 180degrees.

Former User

Fuel pump prime?

Spark at plugs?

G101 ground connected?

CEL codes?

Wdpfreak145

Honda distributors have a slight angle to them that prevent them from being installed 180* out of time.

First things first, do what Ron mentioned above.

My recommendations: Check firing order and insure that the head and and the block are in time TOGETHER, meaning that the UP mark on your cam is obviously facing up and the knotches in your crank line up with the eye on the lower timing belt cover.

fonkernuckle

iTrader: (5)

Yes what Wdpfreak said is usually the case and I thought was firm gospel but I just run across one in the last 3 weeks that you can put the dizz 180 out.
I believe the prior owner forced it on somehow out 180 and this was even with a different head.It was a tight fit either way i put the dizz and I finally checked to make sure the rotor was at the right place with piston 1 at tdc and looking at the dizz from the passenger side the rotor should point roughly between 8 to 10 o'clock and the car started and ran.
yeah firing order if you messed with wires and check timing marks again, sometimes the marks are dead on at the beginning and move after the engine rotates a number of times.

michaelneff

So last night first thing I did was check the firing order. It was correct. Then I checked for spark. Cylinder #1 has spark, I didn’t think to check the rest (does it matter?) Then I checked for fuel at the fuel filter. (it’s good) So I proceeded to take the timing cover off to check timing. Timing was correct. I then went ahead and re- did the timing for ***** and giggles b/c I am second guessing myself now. I’ve done plenty of these timing belts. During my process of re- doing it, I was turning the cam with a 12mm wrench to where it got so hard to turn that I was actually tightening and loosening the bolt. So I put the timing belt back on the cam to turn the cam over and then proceeded to re- do timing. So it’s back in time.

I did try spinning the distributor to see if it was still 180 out of time but the distributor end only goes in one way on the cam shaft.

The crank pulley key is up along with the cam “UP” marking.

There has gotta be another issue somewhere. Let me run down what I did to this motor but I am sure everyone will agree that it should still be running.

I pulled a running motor to do: Clutch, Flywheel, Timing belt, Water Pump, Oil pan gasket, Drive belts, and obviously valve cover gaskets. During the pull I broke the knock sensor which every where I have read it’s just a safety sensor and has no effect on the car not running.

michaelneff

And yes G101 is grounded. (thermostat ground)

And there are no Cel Codes b/c the car wont run.

Car Cranks normal just never fires off. Sometimes I hear a deeper back compression out the exhaust.

michaelneff

Would TPS and MAP sensor being switched have something to do with the problem?

Former User

CEL codes can be thrown without the engine running. Some require you to crank the engine for 25 seconds or so to be set.

Are you saying that they are swapped?

michaelneff

I'm saying I could have swapped the two plugs. Its been done before by many. Just wondering if that could be why it wont start. Or still would start just run stupid if they were swapped.

Yeah no Cel codes.

Former User

Do the wire colors in the connectors match to the sensors? This is how you ensure that sensor connectors have not been swapped.

Is spark bright white at all 4 spark plugs? Click the spark link in my signature.

strategy400

I always mark the belt and sprockets before removal (whiteout) and then lay new belt on old belt and transfer marks, then count teeth just to be sure, then install new belt. Always works perfectly.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Like I said, it's possible to FORCE the distributor during installation to be 180degrees out (super emphasis on FORCE) LOL.

michaelneff

Map and TPS isnt backwards. Blah... I wont have till saturday to work on this, I work my two jobs for the rest of the week.

ReaperMan

do your cylinders smell like gas? does your car have resister box for the injectors? you pulled the engine out?

michaelneff

Fuel, spark, timing, grounds all have been checked over just now.

Can the injector plugs be mixed up?

Cylinder #1 Brown & yellow wire
Cylinder #2 Red & yellow Wire
Cylinder #3 Blue & yellow wire
Cylinder #4 (2) yellow wires

aaronm03

I know this thread is really old but maybe i can help future troubles! I had the same problem my z6 wouldnt fire right up especially if it was cold i eventually rotated wires on dizzy ended up wires was out 180 once that was done car fired up quick no problems! Crazy thing is though i drove the car for a cpl years with it out of whack it just cranked alot then finally would hit but never would in the cold!

ssjr0498

Have tried doing that on my b16, when it wouldn't start!! Got it (the probe on the dizzy)out 180deg and it fired in half a crank!! It's been running like a champ ever since, haven't had the time to sort it out though! Lol!

tony_2018

First of all, I don't understand how you can 180 spark plug wires, they just plug in a certain order.

Second, you drove the car like that does not mean it was remediated, you just didn't care to continue fixing the issue.

Thread closed for not providing a proper diagnose.

ssjr0498

Guess, he changed the plug order from the dizzy end! I'm saying this because, in my case it strangely happened to work for me.
So this happened on my last rebuild (All motor obd1 B16)! Somehow, when I pulled the dizzy out one of the pins of the probe were broken!!
It was necessary for me to drive the car out of this garage that I had rented. So, swapped the probe from an older dizzy and still the car refused to start. Checked spark, fuel, everything! All seemed perfect but the thing wouldn't start! So decided to check the dizzy again, contacts, seemed fine. While reinserting don't know why, turned the probe 180 out and inserted it. Cranked the car and it felt as if it was wanting to start but it wouldn't!! Then thought of giving it a try and I changed the position of the plug wires on the dizzy side and made them exactly opposite!! Tried cranking and the thing fired in half a crank!!
Was totally drained out hence just drove the car out and parked it at my place. Its been parked every since but the point is, though incorrect, it worked!!
I have to soon get back to it, so I'm thinking if while swapping the pin from the older dizzy, did I fix it 180 out onto the new dizzy?

Thoughts???

tony_2018

This is technically all user error and the manual should've been consulted. You can't just unplug spark plug wires and assume its proper location without AT LEAST documenting where they were before, even if you don't know the cylinder location numbering or firing order.