diehlr

The A/C in my car has a mind of its own. Sometimes it blows COLD, other times it seems to blow cool (it could just be not working at this point but seem cool because the system is still a little cool), and sometimes it doesn't cool at all. I have looked under the hood while the A/C is running and the compressor clutch seems to engage just fine.

I took it to the shop and they evacuated and recharged the system and it didn't fix anything. They told me the system has no leaks. They also jumped +12 to the compressor which they said made the fan come on but the compressor wouldn't engage. From this, it seems the problem isn't with the relay or the temperature sensor. They couldn't tell me for sure what the problem was.

I would say the compressor itself is messed up, but then why would it work fine sometimes and other not? I would think if it were faulty, it would never come on at all.

I am really stumped. Does anyone have any advice? It's getting really hot outside!

nocturnaldragon

Sounds to me like its your temp sensor, that unit tells the unit when to work basicly if that messed up it will not work not work as hard as it should ect. Ive been tracing a electrical gremlin down in a 2000 civic and I think thats it but the guy dosent want to pay for a new sensor. (Wont even see how much one is) Cheap bastard is just gonna run a switch to turn on the compressor with a toggle switch.

94sohcVTEC

-"What's that on your steering wheel,man? ::gasp:: You got NOS?"
-"naa, dude. It's an A/C switch. Cool huh?"
-"no"
*pushes button*
-"yeah"


Modified by 94sohcVTEC at 4:43 PM 6/9/2005

diehlr

Hmm.. if the problem is the temperature unit, wouldn't the compressor work when power is supplied directly to it? Supposedly the guy applied 12 volts directly to the compressor and that wouldn't even get it going. Or is the temperature sensor within the compressor itself, so there is no getting around it?

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diehlr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm.. if the problem is the temperature unit, wouldn't the compressor work when power is supplied directly to it? Supposedly the guy applied 12 volts directly to the compressor and that wouldn't even get it going. Or is the temperature sensor within the compressor itself, so there is no getting around it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Usually when a compressor clutch is checked by connecting it to 12 volts the connector is disconected to do it. In which case the condensor fan wouldn't run like you said earlier. But there is a thermal protector on the compressor. It's easy to check with an ohm meter. There are also alot of other doodads and whatchamacallits in the systen too. Everything has to work together.

diehlr

Is the thermal protector on the compressor the device that is disc shaped and looks like it is glued to the top of the compressor (and has a metal bracket holding it in place)? Do you know what approximate readings a working / faulty thermal protector would give? I assume it would be infinite if defective, and shorted / close to zero if functioning properly.

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diehlr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the thermal protector on the compressor the device that is disc shaped and looks like it is glued to the top of the compressor (and has a metal bracket holding it in place)</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's it. A better test would be to bypass it with 12 volts and see if the clutch engages. Now that I think about it that would be easier.

diehlr

Hm, I thought when the technician applied 12 volts, that's where he applied it. Maybe he didn't know what he was doing and applied power to the wrong spot? Now I just need to find an easy way to get to the wire leads.. that compressor is BURIED.