mortificationrock

Well ill make it short....

A couple days ago my engine starting doing some whining sound while i was on the freeway. And it would mainly do it when the revs were higher. So i tought it was the PS pump since i have a faulty leaking one. So i figured I might have been low on fluid. To my surprise it was full. Went ahead and trouble shooted a bit more and noticed the timing belt would move violently back and forth when the noise was present.(Noticed it cuz i have no cover by the ps pump. The little one that comes with the ps bracket).]

So i babied it home. like at 1500rpm's...not kidding. I tore it open today and i tought i would maybe find the tensioner spring or the tensioner bolt loose. But to my surprise it was all intact. So im stumped....i still went ahead and removed it.

Could it be possible that the tensioner is starting to stick? I dont want to spend $ on something that mught not be. Funny because everything is practically new...from previous owner. Even the timing belt still says HONDA very clearly and even the part#'s. Pump looks spanking new and no leaks. What could have happened here?

92civiceg9gsr

If its already apart I would at least install a new belt & tensioner.

mortificationrock

Yeah that seems like what ill do. My main question would be if the belt was wobbling back and forth like that....it has to be the tensioner right?

D16SiHatch

i forget what they're called but do you have the little ring pieces on the crank snout that keep the belt from moving around?

mortificationrock

^^?? What are you talking about? I'm clueless. I mean car was running awesome for more than half a year before this happened.

mortificationrock

Bump

mortificationrock

Ttt

mortificationrock

So can anyone tell me if a tensioner can cause this? Cuz I took it off and it till spins??? :$

tico

there is a few possibilities, tensioner could be going bad.... spin it is it smoothe or does it feel rough when spinning???

could also be the wrong belt too long or short will cause a noise, those rings mentioned earlier are there too keep the belt slipping off the crank, they are a concave shaped facing away... look at the belt does the printed side look glazed or shinny? we need more info

mortificationrock

Ah...well the ring is there. As stated before its been running for more than half a year....so its not the wrong belt. Tensioner seems to spin a little slow...but its not like I can spin it fast enough either. I can hear a humming noise if I place my ear close enough also. As far as belt being shiny I don't know. I can't look at my belt right now.I'll try to look at it tomorrow.

P.S on a side note from what I know its only 1 ring in the crank not rings? Right?

mortificationrock

Well both timing belt guide plates are there. So thats out of the picture.

ej6kid

No i doubt the tensioner could do it, I bought a car last year with no tensioner spring on it and it ran fine, until i went and did the crank and cam seals last week and saaw it wasnt there, i put one there and it runs the same

mortificationrock

The spring is one thing and the tensioner is another.

B18C5-EH2

See this pic:



Was the motion you saw on the belt front to back in the area between numbers 5 and 3, or between number 4 and the crank gear?

Or was it literally lateral side to side movement?

Front to back flapping indicates a loose belt and/or stretched belt.

I'd err on the side of caution and go ahead and replace the timing belt and tensioner, and honestly, so you don't have to go back in, I'd also replace the cam and crank seals too.

B18C5-EH2

BTW here are some more helpful diagrams, just in case:







...and setting tension:

Tension Adjustment:



CAUTION: Always adjust timing belt tension with the engine cold.

NOTE:

* The tensioner is spring-loaded to apply proper tension to the belt automatically after making the following adjustment.
* Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley side. Rotating it clockwise may result in improper adjustment of the belt tension.

1. Remove the cylinder head cover.
2. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC.
3. Rotate the crankshaft 5 - 6 revolutions to set the belt.
4. Set the No.1 piston at TDC.
5. Loosen the adjusting bolt 1/2 turn (180°) only.
6. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 3-teeth on the camshaft pulley.
7. Tighten the adjusting bolt to the specified torque.
8. After adjusting, retorque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 177 N.m (18.0 kgf.m, 130 lbf.ft).

mortificationrock

Wow.....B18C5-EH2 you out did yourself with the manual..lol. thanx. And to answer your question the vibration was between the #4 and crank. Looking at it from pulley side it would go left to right. I got to see the play by the ps pump timing covee hole since I don't have it.

shawn_crx

I said the belt worn out and stretched. I would redo the whole timing belt system, exchange belt,tensioner, and water pump. That should last you another 100k miles.

mortificationrock

Yeah....see the funny thing is it hasn't been anywhere near 40 or 30 k that the belt was replaced. And that's giving a high number. It's probably no where near that.

mortificationrock

Awaiting B18C5-EH2 response as to what it might be. I really don't want to buy a new belt or pump that I know ain't more than a year old.

B18C5-EH2

I've got an idea:

Why not remove the power steering belt altogether and see if the noise changes at all? Having fluid in the P/S reservoir doesn't eliminate the chances that the noise is still coming P/S system.

If you literally narrowed it down to a noise from the timing assembly then I'd say perhaps the timing belt either stretched (if it is an aftermarket one), or the tensioner came loose and slacked the belt up, or the tensioner is dragging and is wearing the belt.

Regardless at this point I'd bank on replacing the timing belt and tensioner at the very least if the belt was really moving around a lot. There could be wear on the belt from flapping around.

Setting the tension properly is kind of "feel" thing. It's hard to put it into set parameters or measurements. Even if the belt is tensioned properly there will always be front-to-back movement. I guess you could take a video after you set the tension?

B18C5-EH2

BTW:

You can get a Koyo brand tensioner for cheap (part number 14510-P30-003) and a timing belt from either the Acura dealer (more pricey) or go with a Mitsuboshi, or Gates one. You could even get one of those Gates "timing belt kits" that includes the belt and the tensioner.

From some quick seacrhes I found the tensioner for mid $30.00's and the belt for high $20.00's low $30.00's.

mortificationrock

Damm where did you find them so cheap? I got quoted 98 bux for a gates kit. Belt, tensioner, and pump. And I tore my car apart already to test the ps pump. But like I said I doubt my belt should move around that violently while revving . I didn't pull on the belt while off to check the slack. I saw the belt flapping around while car was on and it would to it when revving high. It wouldn't do it while in idle. Only when revving high. Thus that's the reason why I drove it all the way back home from work like at 1500-2000 rpms. Not kidding.

B18C5-EH2

Gates Timing Belt and Tensioner $38.98 on Amazon.com <--- clickable

Atsugi (OEM manufacturer) Water Pump 19200-PR4-013 for $41.93 <-- clickable

Those two combined will be closer to OEM than some parts store timing belt special. The water pump is quite literally 100% OEM. Gates makes some of Honda's timing belts too (later model Civics come to mind), just not the Integra LS (Unitta makes those.)

mortificationrock

Cool thanx bro. Im gonna go ahead and buy the belt and tensioner. Money is tight right now since i just started working again. And like i said everything was new when i bought this swap off from PROJECT95EJ1.

JENNY_EG6

You might wanan check for wears on the belt, if it doesn't look too bad just replace your tensioner and the water pump instead...