xasiansupermanx

I know that ARP Studs are better but I just dont understand installing them, i mean do i torque the stud, then install the head then re torque the bolt. I look at the catalog and they say jus hand tight stud...but then when u install the head and bolt ur torque spec going to change? maybe some can help me out here, with a installtion sheet?...please?

TurboEK9Coupe

When they say just hand tight, they mean hand tight. I used to build alot of motors at my previous job and this is how I would install the studs. First, blow out any dirt that may end up in the bolt hole in the block. Second, apply some of the ARP molly lube to the end of the stud w/ the allen slot in the top. Don't apply too much lube on the end of the stud. You just want it to give you assistance when installing the stud. Third, using a 3/16" allen mounted socket bit, install the stud in the block with your shortest ratchet. Kind of finger start the stud in the block before using the ratchet. Sometimes your going to be able to start the stud and tighten it w/o the ratchet. Using the ratchet your not supposed to crank down on the stud. You just want the stud to bottom out to the bottom of the block. What I like to do is to snug the stud w/ the ratchet and then back it off about 1/2 of a turn, just to be safe. Then install the head gasket on the bloc and make sure you wipe up any molly lube that may form around the base of the stud. Just make sure the mating surfaces of the head gasket are spotless. The apply some molly to the top of the stud w/ the gasket still on the block. Don't go over board, just enough to coat all of the threads and not to much that you want the molly lube to get on the head when installing it. Finally, install the head and make sure it goes down straight. The last thing you want is a bent head stud. I have seen that before and its not pretty. Using more of the molly lube apply to all of the mating surfaces of the nut and washer. The purpose of the molly lube is to give you accurate and consistent torque readings. Some people use anti-seize, but just stick to the molly lube that comes with the studs. And finally torque the head to the desired torque that ARP gives you in the instruction sheet w/ the studs. I like to go in a 3 step torque process. You don't want to torque the head all at once. And as far as OEM vs ARP, The OEM bolts are torque to yield bolts. That being said that you torque the bolts to around 25-35 flbs and then using a special tool to stretch the bolt to a certain degree on the guage. Back to the ARP studs. 1st torque to 28 flbs then to 53 flbs and then to the desired torque that ARP recommends. Personally I torque mine to 73-75 flbs. If you have any other questions you can give ARP a call and their tech line with be more than happily to assist you. Their # is 800-826-3045.

xasiansupermanx

DAMN DUDE THANKS!!!! jus order a set...

TurboEK9Coupe

No problem. Glad to help. Any other questions feel free to ask.