datsol94

Car is a 99 civic ex, 5 spd, stock d16y8 no engine mods at all. Has about 130k and has run great since my buddy picked it up. One day it died on him on the highway and wouldn't start back up. Found there was no spark and replaced the ignition coil. Still wasn't starting so checked for fuel at the fuel rail. Cracked the nut and there was pressure, so I took the line off put it in a container and tried cranking it a couple times to make sure the pump was delivering fuel. Car was throwing code P1259 VTEC system malfunction. Found the car was low on oil filled it up and cleared the code with a scanner. At the same time another mechanic I work with said the vent tube for the gas tank may be clogged and its vapor-locking. Loosened the gas cap heard a hiss and the car started right up and ran fine for about a month. Then randomly the problem returned, no start. Heard a buzzing noise coming from the glove box and discovered the main relay was the culprit. Replaced the main relay and now theres no prime from the fuel pump at all. Pulled he old main relay apart and didn't see any cracked solder joints. Here's the weird part, The car will prime with the old main relay but not pump when cranking. With the new main relay the car will neither prime nor pump but if i jump out the 2-wire blue plug by the ecu to fetch trouble codes it will prime with the new relay but still no start.

To Recap:
-New Main Relay
-New Ignition Coil
-New Fuel Filter + Tune Up
-No pressure at fuel rail
-Car will run for short time off carb cleaner or starting fluid (fuel delivery problem??)
-12v directly to fuel pump kicks pump on and works fine.
-Old Main relay no jumped connector, Pump primes, no pump, no start.
-New Main relay no jumped connector, no prime, no pump, no start.
-New Main relay jumped connector, Prime, no pump, no start.
-Car cranks over quickly and will run off short bursts of starting fluid but then dies.
-All fuses have been checked and are good.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated. This ones really got me stumped. I'm thinking maybe a bad ground somewhere?? but haven't been able to find an issue. Help!

Former User

Double check 7.5A dash fuse 31

datsol94

Checked it out, fuse is good. Replaced with another fuse still no start.

Former User

Test the ignition switch in the ON(III) position. See FAQs sticky.

datsol94

Followed chart as shown here : http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...cture_2701.jpg Everything checks out ok with the ignition. The car will run off starting fluid but once its burned off it dies. Seems like somethings interrupting the fuel pump signal.

Former User

Unplug the starter solenoid, main relay, and ECU connector A.

With a friend holding the key in ON(III), check whether main relay plug terminal 2 and ECU connector A pin A24 has battery voltage to body ground.

http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring...schematics.gif

datsol94

Checked voltage to ground at both locations and got 10v. Thought it might be my meter cause its not the best so went and tried a couple fuses to ground and across the battery. Ends up I get 12v. Could this be the problem?

datsol94

Bumpp

datsol94

Any ideas?? I gotta get this car up and running ASAP. Any suggestions on where to look next or possible causes? This ones really got me stuck

Former User

Unplug the starter solenoid and ECU connector A. While a buddy holds the key in ON(III), ground terminal A16 in unplugged ECU connector A. Does the fuel pump run?

datsol94

Yes the fuel pump kicks on and stays running until i remove the ground.

Former User

Are both main relays OEM parts?

Which main relay is currently installed?

It's time to return to some basic tests using only one of the main relays.

datsol94

The one that was in the car when it was running seems to be. It was making a buzzing/chattering sound and I thought that may be the culprit. Replaced it with one from a parts store (generic) and i still have no start. I tried grounding out terminal A16 with either of the relays attached and both let the pump come on until the circuit is broken. I also took apart the relay that was making noise and found no cracked solder joints inside.

Former User

For all subsequent tests, choose one main relay. Don't swap back and forth.

1) What is the voltage across the two battery posts?

2) If you turn the key from off to ON(II), does the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds.

3) If you unplug the starter solenoid and hold the key in ON(III), does the fuel pump run continuously?

4) Are any CEL codes currently thrown?

datsol94

Ok, from here I will be using the original main relay. (One that was in the car before I replaced it.)

1) 12v.
2) Yes.
3) Yes.
4) No, the CEL is currently not illuminated.

**Note When I tried step 3 the pump would come on. I reconnected the terminal on the starter and tried starting it again. This time the main relay began clicking and while holding my hand on the top of the pump it felt like it was pumping intermittently almost synchronized with the clicks coming from the relay.

Former User

Check whether the fuel injector clips have battery voltage with key in ON(II). If so, do they spray fuel when the engine is cranking?

Check for spark at all 4 spark plugs.

datsol94

Checked voltage at all injector clips. Readings start around 0mV then slowly climb to around 195mV in random increments until the meter reads "OL" and the process starts over again. I have fuel pressure at the fuel rail but pulled the plugs and they are dry. No smell of fuel coming from the cylinder either. Plugs have a spark but its not the brightest (car is in the sun). Gave it a shot of brake clean, car started up and sputtered for a moment then died. CEL came on. I currently don't have access to an OBD scanner so i jumped out the 2-wire blue connector by the ecu. CEL flashed 2 slow flashes long pause 2 more slow flashes followed by 2 more quick ones then another long pause before it repeats again. Seems like code 11 and 22??

Former User

Did you check for voltage at the Yel/Blk wire terminal in each injector clip? If so, lack of voltage at the injector clips is the place to focus and is almost surely the cause of the problem. Start here:

Unplug IACV and turn key to ON(II). Does the Yel/Blk wire terminal in the IACV plug have battery voltage?

Also, you probably misread code 11. Reset the ECU to see whether any codes repeat. Post a video of the blinking CEL if any codes repeat after cranking engine for 30 seconds.

datsol94

Ok, so i redid my method and checked each injector clip yellow/black wire to ground and they all got 12v. The IACV has 12v also to the yel/blk wire. Heres a short vid of whats going on with the CEL after resetting the ecu and cranking the motor for 30 seconds with 10 second intervals.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vdExQODd1x8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdExQ...1&feature=plcp

Former User

That's code 22 repeating itself. Is the VTEC solenoid and pressure switch plugged in?

As this^ is likely a separate issue from the no-start, remove the fuel rail with the injectors to see whether any injectors spray fuel. Don't do steps 1-3 in the diagram.

Test injector spray one at a time by unplugging the clips of the other three injectors. Hold all 4 injectors firmly into the fuel rail and then crank the engine and watch for spray. Take necessary precautions to avoid igniting the gas vapor.

datsol94

VTEC solenoid is plugged in and seemed to be working fine the last time the car was running. Checked all the injectors one by one then all at once and none of them are spraying.

Former User

Turn key off. Unplug injector clip 1 and use a piece of wire to ground the Brn wire terminal in the clip to the engine.

Remove the passenger side kick panel to expose the ECU. Unplug ECU connector B. Measure continuity to body ground at terminal B11. Use metal frame under dash as ground. Is there continuity?

datsol94

I am not getting continuity between the two points.

Former User

Repeat the same test on the ground wires for the other three injectors. See diagram for wire colors and ECU connector pins. Verify that the ECU pin you continuity test has the same wire color as that of the injector clip.

datsol94

So it ends up I had a bad connection to ground. After realizing this i corrected the problem and double checked each wire to the ecu for continuity. I checked the ground wires for the injectors on the chart and matched them to the corresponding ecu plug/wire and it turns out the all test positive for continuity. Disregard my earlier statement of not having it. Still have the no start problem.