zaku2

I have a problem and i need some civic guru sage advice. The car is a 97 dx 5 speed d16. Car ran a bit rough and the lights would dim when coming to a stop (rpm drop) and had some hesitation on acceleration. It had a bad bank 1 o2 sensor and that was the only trouble code.

Got it to the shop and parked it. I replaced the o2 and cleared the code and now car wont start. Parts inspected and or replaced while looking for the issue: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, icm, battery, obvious fuses (battery, ignition, fuel pump), and all engine grounds cleaned and checked I even replaced the main relay.

The only odd thing i can report that may point to my issue is while the injectors are plugged in, the spark is orange and weak. However when they are unplugged its a nice crisp white blue and will try to run on the remaining fuel.

I need a place to start looking. I have a multimeter and a test light.

Former User

Test the battery and alternator.

Also check whether fuse 15 is blown.

Bone stock 97 Civic with D16Y7?

zaku2

Bone stock 107k d16y7. New battery. fuse 15 is fine, replaced and still nothing. Would a bad alt cause the car not to start? How should I test the alt?

Former User

What voltage do you measure across the 2 battery posts?

If you turn the key from OFF to ON(II), does the charging system warning light in the cluster turn on and stay on?

zaku2

12.73v battery light stays on

Former User

What specific O2 sensor code was thrown? Which O2 sensor did you replace? Has the code returned?

zaku2

Sorry dont remember the code but it was for the first bank o2 above the cat. The sensor itself was slightly melted like it got way too hot. Replaced with a new oem ntk. No code has returned but it hasn't run so...

Former User

Was it a heater code (P0135) or a sensor code (P0131, P0132, P0133)?

Was the wire harness connector for the O2 sensor inspected for damage?

Is a 7.5A fuse installed in the fuse 15 slot?

zaku2

The harness plug is not damaged, my friend with the odb2 reader thinks it was P0132 but is not 100% and yes a 7.5 fuse is in the #15 spot

Former User

Unplug the replaced O2 sensor to see whether the engine will start.

If you unplug the injectors, does engine start and run with starting fluid?

Turbokraft

Measure the resistance of the injectors, they should be in the 10-13 ohm range. If they are try connecting them one at a time and attempt to start the car. It will run rough of course but will run on just one injector, connect others if it does and see if you can get it started, if running and it stalls on a particular injector focus on that circuit. As stated above disconnect O2 for all tests, go back to square one.

zaku2

Neither method worked.

All injectors ohm out between 11.2 and 11.7 range. plugs tested with a noid light and found functional.

New development: While turning the crank shaft to achieve tdc we found that the starter was still engaged with the flywheel. The plunger is not retracting! Don't know if this is the culprit but will know tomorrow.

Former User

If the engine will not start with starting fluid when the injectors are unplugged, then the engine has a spark or compression problem. As you already stated that spark is bright white with the injectors unplugged, start by checking whether the plug wires are installed in the wrong firing order on the distributor cap.

zaku2

Its a spark issue the motor has good compression. Plugs are in the correct order, we checked belt and dizzy timing and the system is in time (would not cause weak spark but checked anyway). The injectors are getting the signal, the injectors ohmed out in spec. fuel is not an issue.

Plugs are not getting a hot spark. New icm, coil, wires, cap rotor. Still same issue. Problem must be deeper. I need to know where to look. Relays, harness plugs, sensors, ect that could effect spark strength. Is there something else in the dizzy to check?