MrNastyEj2

Hey guys...I'm new to Hondatech...and about 6 months new to the tuning world of D Series and I'm kind of stumped for the first time and really need some help.

I have a 95 civic dx with a z6 swap and a turbo kit pieced together I just got tuned. I was out about 35 minutes from home selling a turbo to some guy and as I was pulling in to meet him...I was at a stop light and my radiator decided it wanted to take a **** on me...I noticed steam coming from under my hood and my car started overheating...I quickly ran the red light to get into the parking lot and shut off my car. I found about a 2 inch crack in the plastic seam at the top of the radiator. Luckily I was at walmart...and picked up some coolant, radiator stop leak (didn't work for crap), and jb weld (to seal the crack until my new radiator came in). Well after I sold the turbo...I noticed my phone was dead and I was kind of out in the middle of nowhere...so I decided to drive home and make lots of stops to keep filling up coolant. Well I eventually made it home with the engine running pretty damn hot as the coolant just kind of poured out of the radiator. I babied the car pretty much the whole half an hour it took to get home.

Well I got home...sealed the radiator crack with jb weld...and waited overnight to allow it to cure. The next morning I went out and bought some new synthetic oil just to check for any possible damage like shavings or any coolant. The oil looked fine...no signs of it being watered down or looking off color...so I changed the oil and filter...etc...and filled up the system with coolant. I started the car to bleed the cooling system...and as the engine was reaching operating temperature I noticed the cooling fan was not kicking on. I felt the lower rad. hose that runs from the thermostat back to the radiator and while the upper one was hot the lower one felt cold as if no coolant was going past the thermostat. So I thought well maybe the cheap stant thermostat got burned out from running hot...and its stuck closed. I went to advanced and bought an aftermarket stant 180 degree thermostat and replaced it and went to bleed the cooling system again. The same thing happened...the engine heated up...the cooling fan never kicked on...and the lower radiator hose stayed cold. We replaced the water pump about a month ago when we swapped the z6 motor in...can anyone give me advice on how I should go about diagnosing this? This is my first problem.

2nd problem: My car has been having a low idle and misfiring like symptoms except the car drives fine. But sometimes when I shift out of gear my idle drops so low sometimes as to stall out. The dizzy seems to be fine and I'm running fresh out of the box ngk plug wires. I kept thinking maybe I ruined my headgasket or warped my head by letting it overheat so I bought a compression tester and tested my engine...my numbers were: 162,165,162,170. The haynes says 180 is the max and 135 is the lowest. I also noticed oil on the electrode of all the spark plugs...which lead me to believe worn valve guides or piston rings...but it's weird because my compression numbers seem pretty healthy.

If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it...I'm in the process of ordering a new headgasket, arp headstuds, a radiator, and a rebuilt head...but I was seeing if I can get any opinions before I shell out 500 more dollars I don't have...thanks

MrNastyEj2

Update...I pulled the timing cover off...and found metal shavings all over the belt and on the water pump...I also heard clunking noises coming from inside the timing area when I was bleeding the coolant. So I think hopefully that will solve the overheating issue.

Still need help on the valve seals issue...someone has to have an idea...

wmac

should be resolved when you get your re-built head

MrNastyEj2

Bump. I solved the overheating problem. Ended up being the water pump chewed itself in half. Damn ching chong water pumps. But I am still having problems with the loping idle. The car sounds like its cammed or a slight misfire but it drives perfect. It is only at idle. Im running NGK Plug Wires and NGK 7 spark plugs and the car is tuned on CROME with RC 550 injectors. I was going to replace the head but I think it is fine as my compression numbers were 162,165,162,170. We cant get my ignition timing straight with this loping idle. I replaced IACV, bled coolant, tested the injectors...I have no CEL...there is no vacuum leak...I even put the stock tb back on...Can anyone help me think of anything I might have overlooked?

93delsolh22

if it sounds like a subaru wrx st u have a egg shaped cylinder or the heads r warped

lilcurt

I cant rlly help u man, Im jus tryna get 5 post to start a thread.

MrNastyEj2

Lol thanks lil curt. 'preciate it bud. Sol, I figured if my head was warped my compression numbers would be shitty...and it would probably run shitty. Is that not always the case? I mean
It pulls hard and drives fine...and it started doing this before the car overheated...we were in the process of tuning it and it was just sitting in the driveway. I think the last thing we did before it started loping was switching spark plugs...