ne0nblakk

I've been trying to troubleshoot this issue myself, and am running out of ideas. It started and ran fine up until one morning it just wouldn't start. It will crank fine, but won't start, or even sputter. It had taken a bit of extra cranking to start a week or two prior, but that was only 1 time, and it only took a few seconds to start up and run fine. When I turn the key on, the CEL comes on 2 seconds, I can hear the fuel pump, then light CEL shuts off with an audible click. I tested for spark by using a plug wire and grounding the plug threads, and I get no spark. Resistance tested the ignition coil and it seems okay. 1ohm betweek + and -, 15.5k between + and the spring. Replaced plugs, distributor cap, rotor, and ICM, and still no spark. Not even weak spark. The rotor turns when cranked, and timing belt was just replaced about 5 months ago. I check for any fried fuses, and all are looking okay. Checked for voltage at the black/yellow wire in the 2nd wire plug into the distributor, and it has 12V with key in the II 'ON' position. Any suggestions as to where to go next?

ne0nblakk

Photos/further info available upon request, of course.

Former User

First off, great job with the troubleshooting you've done so far. My guess would be a bad coil.

What resistance/Ohm scale was the multimeter set on to measure the 1 Ohm primary winding resistance?

On the lowest Ohm scale, what is the resistance reading when you touch the two meter probes together?

What was the approximate temperature of the coil when you made the resistance measurements?

ne0nblakk

For the resistance between + and - on the coil, it was set on the lowest setting of 200. On the same lowest ohm setting, the probes touching measures 0.4 Ohms. Temp around 70-75f tested indoors.

Former User

For your reported 1 Ohm resistance, had you already subtracted the background 0.4 Ohms of the meter or was this your raw reading?

Kluiz

check ICM in the distributor if everything you test are OK as you troubleshooting done.

ne0nblakk

I didn't subtract any resistance to get the 1Ohm reading, that was the readout on the display. That was the raw reading.

Kluiz

Here is coil spec:
Primary Winding Resistance (A and B terminal) = 0.6-0.8 Ohm (you right)
Secondary Winding Resistance (A and Spring) = 12.8-19.2 kOhm (you right)

Now you need to do with following this step on Manual section 23-96 or page 1202
from 94 acura integra service manual or your manual you had and looking for Ignition system section

ne0nblakk

Hey, I made a post a couple days ago, problem still not solved. Car wont start, cranks but no spark. Changed plugs, distributor cap and rotor, as well as ICM, still no spark. Fuses all look good, and when ignition in the on position, I'm getting current at the black/yellow distributor wire. I opened up the distributor, and the positive screw on the coil is getting voltage, but isn't grounding through the neg screw. However, if i remove the ground wire from the ICM and put the ground probe on the tab the neg terminal connects to, it grounds fine. I resistance tested the little ground wire, and it has the same resistance as when I touch the probes together, so the wire seems fine. Any suggestions from here?

ne0nblakk

Oh, forgot to mention, CEL on for first 2 secs while fuel pump runs, then audibly clicks off, so I believe main relay is good.

Vlot.94civic.ex

sounds like the problem i used to have when i needed a new battery lol

Jaz760

you sure your wires are good?

Former User

Only one thread per topic -- related threads merged.

Former User

Just to make sure, you should retest the coil.

What negative screw are you talking about?

Do you mean the Ye/Grn wire? What voltage do you measure at the Yel/Grn wire terminal with the key in ON(II)? Did you test the Yel/Grn wire for a short?

chris420killer

i have the same prob.. car started acting up last week. running rough for a few days then dead battery. have a new battery on it,turns over fine has compression but not firing now for some reason.anyone else have this happen? car spitting and sputtering rpm meter bottoming out but still running on what looks like 100 rpm if that's even possible ???????? now wont do anything but turn over

Former User

Please create your own thread rather than hijack this one.