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Hey what's up everyone? My name is Steven and this is the first Honda I have ever owned. I've always messed around with Subarus. Had a hawkeye that made 400/400, a Mustang with a 200 shot of nawzzzz. Now I have a stupid truck that's the most practical vehicle I have owned. Now I found this hatch on craigslist and got it pretty cheap. I'm from Western PA so it comes with some rust. I don't know my full intentions with this car yet, I'll know more once I get it on the road. I'm stuck between get 30 mpgs and daily it since my truck gets 10, or B/K swap and boost it. So yeah pretty vague as in where this car is going to go but thats why it's so fun. I don't plan on dumping a load of money into this thing but I will put it where the car defintely needs it. I ordered 2 new front tires since they're bascially slicks. The car rides like an amish buggy so I ordered new struts and springs, I was going to get coilovers but I couldn't pass this deal up that I got. The hood latch doesn't retract once the hood is popped so I ordered a new latch and cable.
Its got the funky idle where it fluctuates untill its warmed up. Usually takes 10 minutes to stop. I took the IAC off, it's about as new as it gets. So obviously the previous owner was trying to tackle this problem. Took the FITV off, tore it apart and cleaned everything. Still have the issue. I tried adjusting the fitv while the car was running. I was able to adjust how much the idle fluctuated but it didn't really help it. I'm now looking into the wiring and vacuum. This is where it's getting tricky, because the wiring has been messed with. There's about 5 butt spliced wires and 2 or those wires lead nowhere, the're bare at the end. I followed them to the ECU and figured out what color the original wires are before it was spliced. Found a wiring diagram and one of the wires (it's blue/white stripe)is Sensor ground 1, so I may be on the right track. But I read about just blocking off both IAC and FITV and the issue goes away. So I'm going to try both.
I can drive the car the way it is but I want to make sure its road worthy. Here's some pictures of the machine:
Car looks pretty straight and very clean inside and out. I actually like the flat grey as well. Looks like you have a fantastic starting point for your build.
Basically, IMO here are some of the different options you have for the build:
Turbo B18 - Good for ~350WHP depending on the block on stock sleeves (assuming still forged rods/pistons). Sleeved B18's can make 700+ depending on the turbo kit used. B series transmissions are also known to be a bit stronger than the 6 speeds used on K series
K20/K24 All Motor - Good for ~270+WHP depending on the build using pump gas or E85. Would be reliable and a lot of fun on the street or track.
Turbo K20 - Stock sleeves with forged internals are good for 700+. Transmissions are known to be at least somewhat weaker, but you also get a 6 speed.
Kraftwerks Rotrex Supercharged K20 - Would require removal of AC as the kit takes the place of the AC compressor, however would allow for 450+ WHP on a mostly stock engine.
Depends on what your goals and priorities with the car are, and your budget. Lots of good options here!
Car looks pretty straight and very clean inside and out. I actually like the flat grey as well. Looks like you have a fantastic starting point for your build.
Basically, IMO here are some of the different options you have for the build:
Turbo B18 - Good for ~350WHP depending on the block on stock sleeves (assuming still forged rods/pistons). Sleeved B18's can make 700+ depending on the turbo kit used. B series transmissions are also known to be a bit stronger than the 6 speeds used on K series
K20/K24 All Motor - Good for ~270+WHP depending on the build using pump gas or E85. Would be reliable and a lot of fun on the street or track.
Turbo K20 - Stock sleeves with forged internals are good for 700+. Transmissions are known to be at least somewhat weaker, but you also get a 6 speed.
Kraftwerks Rotrex Supercharged K20 - Would require removal of AC as the kit takes the place of the AC compressor, however would allow for 450+ WHP on a mostly stock engine.
Depends on what your goals and priorities with the car are, and your budget. Lots of good options here!
Yeah it's just primer ready to be painted. Don't really know what I want to do with paint yet, but I need to do something soon. Part of the a/c was removed already, I just took the condenser and most of the lines out last night. That was about 30 lbs and took up some space, so we're already doing some weight reduction lol. I plan on having fun with this thing, the build will probably change as I go. There really isn't a budget, just the voice in the back of my head telling me its an 800 dollar car don't go putting 10 grand into it.
Well some little things are starting to roll in. The hood latch works, but doesn't retract after the hood is popped. Figuring that the cable is frayed. And there's no handle so I got a new cable off ebay for 20 bucks. And some new skins for the front wheels.
Cool, somewhat local! Let me know how you like those tires, i recently put a set on my teg but, it hasnt been off the jackstands yet for me to see how i like them.
Yeah it's just primer ready to be painted. Don't really know what I want to do with paint yet, but I need to do something soon. Part of the a/c was removed already, I just took the condenser and most of the lines out last night. That was about 30 lbs and took up some space, so we're already doing some weight reduction lol. I plan on having fun with this thing, the build will probably change as I go. There really isn't a budget, just the voice in the back of my head telling me its an 800 dollar car don't go putting 10 grand into it.
If you want to stay under 10K then I'd say do one of the entry-level Go-Autoworks kits along with a mildly built B series engine ready to take it and an upgraded clutch.
That, or you could even just rebuild your D series. Easy 250-300WHP and would be a lot of fun if you've also shed weight off the car.
Don't forget a cheap set of coilovers and some good tires will go a long way too. Just a little work into brakes/suspension.
I plan on getting coil overs this spring sometime. I was just going to get quick struts for the front until I realized this thing is on lowering springs so it would have a reverse rake. So I just ended up ordering a set of 4 DNA struts and lowering springs off ebay. I had a $150 credit and ended up getting everything for $25 so I feel I did pretty decent.
And I think I'm going to freshen up the D and put some nitrous to her. Me and my father are pretty good with the sauce. I have a dragster that we run a 400 shot on. He said let's just throw 200 at it and see what happens., so it could get interesting lol.
Not really any update right now, I haven't worked on the car all week. I have been getting the dragster ready for the World of Wheels car show in Pittsburgh this weekend. Here's a pic of my weekend ride if anyone was interested to see it.
Car looks pretty straight and very clean inside and out. I actually like the flat grey as well. Looks like you have a fantastic starting point for your build.
Basically, IMO here are some of the different options you have for the build:
Turbo B18 - Good for ~350WHP depending on the block on stock sleeves (assuming still forged rods/pistons). Sleeved B18's can make 700+ depending on the turbo kit used. B series transmissions are also known to be a bit stronger than the 6 speeds used on K series
K20/K24 All Motor - Good for ~270+WHP depending on the build using pump gas or E85. Would be reliable and a lot of fun on the street or track.
Turbo K20 - Stock sleeves with forged internals are good for 700+. Transmissions are known to be at least somewhat weaker, but you also get a 6 speed.
Kraftwerks Rotrex Supercharged K20 - Would require removal of AC as the kit takes the place of the AC compressor, however would allow for 450+ WHP on a mostly stock engine.
Depends on what your goals and priorities with the car are, and your budget. Lots of good options here!
HP is good, what about the torque? And can I run any of the K20 series listed mods on a 4-speed Honda Tranny (AT)?
What do you suppose I can also run on our L15A JDM build, its a CVT?
HP is good, what about the torque? And can I run any of the K20 series listed mods on a 4-speed Honda Tranny (AT)?
What do you suppose I can also run on our L15A JDM build, its a CVT?
Hey everybody! I've been driving the car almost every day. Put close to 1,000 miles on it so far. Still have the dreaded idle issue. I first tried to clean the FITV (didn't work), then I blocked it off. It completely changed how the idle acts but still surging. Before it would surge when it was cold, went away after it hit operating temp. It would still fluctuate after that but only right after I hit the throttle, then go away. Now, i can start it up and let it run for 3 hours and it'll idle perfectly. Until I hit the gas pedal, it starts going wonky. All I have to do is tap the gas and it starts fluctuating and doesn't stop. Would a throttle position sensor do that? I'm getting one and trying it today.
Hey everybody! I've been driving the car almost every day. Put close to 1,000 miles on it so far. Still have the dreaded idle issue. I first tried to clean the FITV (didn't work), then I blocked it off. It completely changed how the idle acts but still surging. Before it would surge when it was cold, went away after it hit operating temp. It would still fluctuate after that but only right after I hit the throttle, then go away. Now, i can start it up and let it run for 3 hours and it'll idle perfectly. Until I hit the gas pedal, it starts going wonky. All I have to do is tap the gas and it starts fluctuating and doesn't stop. Would a throttle position sensor do that? I'm getting one and trying it today.
I might be dealing with the same issue so I'm going to keep my eye on this thread to see what you find out.
I had a large vacuum leak that was causing most of my idle problems. I fixed it last night and that combined with cleaning my FITV and IACV mostly stabilized my cold and warm idles. I still have a small fluctuation at idle (+-10 to 20 RPM) but I did have surging when I tried to give it some throttle at temperature. I suspect I still have a small vacuum leak that I didn't see because of the large one. That or my TPS and/or throttle stop position still aren't calibrated correctly.
You've cleaned both valves, right? Have you searched for vacuum leaks?
i'm not sure if a bad throttle position sensor would make the idle fluctuate. If anything, i think it would make it idle too high or too low. I have a bad TPS on my car right now and it is making it idle about 1400 rpm with the voltage output from the sensor being too low.
Well my daily turned into a little bit of a build. I know the first thing that's going to be said. Why build a D series? And my answer is why not? I've built many motors from my my STI to the Coyote in my mustang and this has by far been the most fun to build. I can throw the block around like its a toy. The motor is about ready to go in, I'm just doing more TLC on the shell itself. It wasn't an all out build, I built it with a budget. Forged rods, Nippon racing pistons, Girdle and some other little things. Head was rebuilt with mostly stock parts. Had the engine balanced with zero vibration at 10,500 rpm. All the wires from the ECU to engine that were spliced more than once are getting replaced, cleaning up the bay a little bit by taking the a/c lines out and deleting a lot of the vacuum lines. Which is what I'm trying to figure out which lines I'll actually need. I found some things searching but nothing definite. Also found some mint 99 Teggy seats to put in her also.
Looks good man! Keep up the good work, but boost it. (I didn't read everything, but saw you had a header on it so assumed you were staying NA for a bit) I like those Integra seats, my EK seats aren't too amazing. Good luck with the build I'll keep my eye on this. I've got a thread if you wanna peek in anytime.
Edit: just saw the nitrous. Good stuff, hope it treats you well.
Thanks i'll take a look! It should be fun I don't expect it too make crazy hp but I think it's gonna run pretty decent. If it makes 150-200 I'll be happy. Anything over that i'll be surprised lol
I have heard bad things about doing away with the factory harmonic damper, but I guess maybe since you had your engine balanced it won't be as much of an issue, though torsional vibrations will still be present?
Nice build! The d-series builds are always the most entertaining to see, btw I also heard that the "lightweight" pulleys eats bearings(you can always have the oem crank pulley shaved down for less weight), anyways good luck with the build!
01-11-2017, 09:00 AM
93 Civic Hatch daily build
