shank

i have a 92 civic dx with a d15b7 that recently threw a code 9.

Syptoms: Just throws code 9, so far no difference in idle or notice of being sluggish.

Now a while back i put on an accel after market distributor cap and rotor just because they dont have any stock ones in store. After i took the cap off i notice the bottom piece of the rotor was broken and i could freely pull the rotor off. Since then i have replace both cap and rotor with an autozone cap and rotor for oem replacement. I have also check the resistance of the harness at the distributor and the ecu and both are at 362. now i am a little confused how to check for body to ground continuity since its been awhile since i did my electrical course. but i put one lead on one terminal and the other on the housing of the distributor and for ecu one lead on terminal and other on under dash frame. my multi meter just stays at 1 doesnt register anything. I have also reset the ecu and it still throws the code only after warm up. if i drive my car to work which is 25 miles of freeway and dont let it sit at an idle after warm up code will not come up but once car has reached normal operating temp throws the code. I also noticed the person before me put a reman dizzy on. Im running out of options is the ecu bad or the distributor? if so where should i buy a new dizzy? i hear autozone and o reilys are garbage

shank

I have a 92 civic dx d15b7 with code 9.

Syptoms. Cel code comes after engine warms up but doesnt affect idle.

A couple weeks a cel code 9. Well 2 months ago i put an accel aftermarket cap and rotor on cause they didnt have any stock ones well part of the plastic on the bottom of rotor broke off so the rotor is lose so i replaced with a stock one. Ive also check resistance at the harness at the dizzy and ecu both at 362. I checked continuity to ground my multi meter reads 1 doesn't register anything. I put lead on terminal and 1 lead on dizzy housing. Whats the next step? Also whoever owned.the car before me put in a rebuilt dizzy

Former User

Do the Ohm tests from the two sensor wire terminals in the ECU connector.

shank

On the ecu itself?

shank

The ecu harness is the same as dizzy and i also did ground check. I was just confused on your reply. Could you be more specific

Former User

Did you Ohm test the distributor sensor from the ECU connector (wire harness side)? Did you test for a short from each sensor wire from the ECU connector (wire harness side)?

Post the readings.

shank

362 ohms. I used a pair of sewing needles to test at pins. One lead on pin other to under dash from my multi meter just reads 1 which i believe means no ccontinuity. If there is a better way to test please tell me i had it set to 2k ohms for both tests

shank

Also the light doesnt come on if the car is cold. I could drive 50 miles and it wouldnt come in if i dont stop. If it warms up then the code pops up

shank

Not sure if that matters. But only happends after it warms up and idles

Former User

For the short test of each ECU connector pin, set multimeter to lowest Ohm range. You must test each pin individually.

Have you opened the distributor to inspect the internals? Any oil or red dust contamination? Any obvious damage? Post pictures.

shank

Im not at the moment but the first time i took it off bunch of blueish green crap was wet not dry so i cleaned it. No oil. Ill post pics soon.

Former User

Here's^ where you should focus.

shank

Corrosion i take it? Should just take it apart and clean it?

shank

I believe this isnt normal

shank

shank

shank