diversity210

I’m writing this because I see all these forums for the automatic to manual conversion, but no has a full list of everything you will really need and no one really gets down to the important things when installing this stuff. So I figured this would help all of you looking to do this project. Now most people will say, just go buy a car with a manual transmission already in. I say **** those haters. There is nothing like taking on a project and completing it yourself and having it function properly. People say its not worth the money. Well that depends on how much worth does doing something with your own hands and knowledge have to you. The 1300 I spent doing this was well worth it for me.

When removing parts from donor vehicle to convert your car. Don’t just pull parts off the car take the time to see how they are installed and they way they work before you start yanking them out. Especially pay close attention to the way the clutch lines are installed, because if you are like me you don’t have someone with the exact same car to call over so that you can have some sort of reference. Make sure you keep every single nut, bolt, washer, and pin that you remove. Some of the bolts you wont need, but trust me you life will be a lot easier if you have them on hand.

For the most part these parts can be found from donor vehicles at your local wrecking yard or specialty yard. Most Honda enthusiasts knocks eBay, but I’ve built just about my whole car with authentic JDM parts and name brand parts from eBay. It will save you a lot of money. When you use eBay; read the buyers feedback and make sure what they are selling is authentic. If I were your I would avoid Craigslist unless its necessary. I say this because pulling parts off the car yourself you know you have all the bolts, you can see how the part is installed and you can somewhat use your judgment on whether the part looks functional or not. Yes you will have to do some running around and searching websites to find all of these parts and in the beginning it will seem never ending, but in the end you will be very proud of yourself.

Some people say they have done this swap for like $600-800, but you better believe they will be swapping out a clutch or bearings or bushings or something with in the next couple of months. To do this project right and the safe way it should cost you from $1200-1500. Some things you should just buy new, because its safer and that way you don’t have to touch anything again for a long time.

Manual Transmission (A000=dx, lx) (B000=ex, si)
Clutch Kit
Clutch Disc
Clutch Pressure Plate
Pilot Bearing
Throw out bearing
Flywheel bolts
Pressure plate bolts
Release fork and boot
Manual Speed Sensor
Clutch inspection plate
Manual transmission mount bracket.
Manual transmission starter
Flywheel

Note: Most people don’t sell transmissions with the release fork, slave cylinder, mount bracket and speed sensor, so be prepared to search around for these parts or go to the dealer and by them new. Get the inspection plate for the bottom of the transmission, because you don’t want dust and dirt flying in their messing up your new clutch. You will need the front lower mount bracket for the transmission because the one from the automatic doesn’t fit.

Clutch Master Cylinder with reservoir
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Lines

Note: Just purchase a new master cylinder and slave cylinder. It will be lot better than installing used ones and taking the chance of them not working and having to remove them and install new ones. You can get Equals master and slave cylinder on eBay for like 20 each. Equal is made by Exedy so you know they are good. The clutch lines are a pain in the *** to remove from the donor vehicle because they are very ridged and don’t flex much. Take your time when removing and installing these. You don’t want to bend, pinch or break them because they are very expensive to by from the dealer.

Note: You will need the flywheel bolts, because the drive plate bolts for your automatic are shorter and will not work. You don’t have to but it’s a good idea to buy a new clutch kit and flywheel and replace the pilot bearing and throw out bearing seeing as the transmission is not installed in the car yet. This will make life much easier.

Manual pedal Assembly
92-95 civic or 94-01 Integra pedals

Note: 96-2000 Honda civic pedals will not work. If you have cruise control or plan on adding it then find a donor car with cruise control pedals. Cruise control pedals will have and extra arm on the gas pedal and an 2 sensors on the clutch pedal as well as 4 pin sensor on the brake pedal. If you do not have cruise control and don’t plan on adding then just get some pedals it doesn’t matter if they are cruise control or not. Do not just cut your brake pedal like some idiots. Do it the right way and purchase the pedal assembly Drop your whole steering wheel column via 4 bolts to make taking the gas and brake pedals out easier. I have to say its still a bitch though. This seems like the simplest part of the conversion when in fact its probably the hardest and most frustrating……lol

Motor mounts
Civic auto to manual motor mount
Manual front lower torque mounts

Note: The automatic mount is different from the manual and that’s why you need the conversion mount. You can try and fabricate your own mount, but its much easier and a lot less frustrating to just purchase the conversion mount. Avid, Hasport, and Innovative are the big name companies that make this mount. Expect to pay about 120 for those. There are mounts on eBay that sell for like 60 which is what I used and worked great. Do your research and don’t just order from anyone on eBay. For the cheaper mounts go into the sellers feedback and email all the people that purchased the mount and ask them how it worked for them before you buy

Manual ECU

Note: If you have a D16Z6 engine or a D15B that runs the P28 ECU; I know to convert them is very easy if you have some soldering skills and a steady hand. Converting your automatic easy to manual will save you about 150. All you have to do is open it up and remove the RP17 and RP18 resisters and solder in a jumper wire or 0ohm resistor in the RP18 spot. If you do not have good soldering skills then you will just have to purchase the manual ECU for your engine.

Shift Linkage
92-00 Honda civic Shift Linkage

Note: The most important thing I can tell you for the shift linkage is install your transmission in the car before you put the shift linkage in. Connect the linkage to the transmission then line it up through the whole. You will have to use a piece of sheet metal to cover up the old automatic holds then cut a hole in the sheet metal for the new shifter. The manual shifter hole is much smaller than the manual. Rivet or weld the sheet metal down. Don’t just use screws. If you do rivet it in, use a liberal amount of high heat silicone to make sure you have a good seal to the car. This way no exhaust fumes. Also use undercoat on the underbody of the car so the medal doesn’t rust. Get yourself a new linkage bushing kit so that you can put them on before you install the linkage. Oh and if you’re an enthusiast and you want that nice new flashy and functional dual bend short throw B&M, Blox, Megan, or skunk2 shifter. Its good to have it so you can install it before you install the linkage.

Shifter center console

Note: You can do this two ways. You can keep your automatic console and just buy a universal shift boot and somehow customize it into the automatic console or you can go out and find the console that fits your car but is for the manual transmission. If you do it this way make sure the console comes with the boot so that you can get the boot mount with it. Purchasing a new console keeps the whole OEM look of the car and is easier but more expensive. Customizing your auto console takes longer, but is the cheaper way to go

Manual Throttle cable

Note: You need the manual throttle cable, because the end that hooks to the pedals is bigger than the one from the automatic. The cable is very easy to install. Under the hood follow it to the point where it goes in the firewall. Grab the tab and twist it about 45 degrees then just pull the damn thing out.


CV Axles

Note: Most say the cv axles from the automatic are different from the manual transmission. I personally fail to see the difference between the two. Never the less I did purchase new CV axles for the manual transmission just to be save and I suggest you do the same.

Manual Transmission Starter

Note: The automatic tranmission starter is very similar and it looks like it will fit, but the Mounting Holes do not line up. All on The automatic transmission the botom bolt bolts into the bell housing of the transmission while on the manual start the bottem bolt goes through the bell housing of the transmission and bolts into the block. You will need to get the bottom bolt for the manual starter as well, because it is much longer. The dimensions of this bolt is M10-1.25 x 100mm. Honda part number for this bolt is 95701-10100-08.


This is a really fun project that can actually done in a full day with a 12 pack of beer and a pack of cigarettes if you have complete knowledge of what you are doing. It can be a little frustrating at some points in the conversion which is why it is best to span it over a few days, because people get frustrated and they start rushing and rushing this will do you no good. This is not something an export mechanic has to do. If you have a little know-how you can do this project. IF I MISSED ANYTHING FEEL FREE TO EMAIL ME AND ASK. I RECENTLY DID THIS PROJECT AND IT IS FRESH IN MY MIND RIGHT NOW.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Thanks but needs some pictures as a guide.
Like this one in the FAQ.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-my-auto-manual-swap-pics-56k-no-no-2090074/

diversity210

You call that a guide. For one that is for and EK and this thread is for EG. Besides its not even a guide, its just pictures of the parts and may I add not even all of the parts you need and he shows you some funky electrical work that I wouldnt recomend to anyway.

If people want pictures they can refrence another forum or website for that. Im just telling people they need more than what most people say for the conversion and left a helpfull note for each part. I thought it would be usefull because you dont see it anywhere. All the other conversions are just vague explanations of some of the parts.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

That link is for a 95.
You altered your entire first post so you might want to indicate this is a parts list in the title.

diversity210

your right that post was for a 95. I should put parts in the title so people will know. Thats a good idea

Former User

This is a very helpful post. Thanks.

Let me know how you would like the title edited so that I can do it for you.

lordhelmet1584

You don't need a new throttle cable if you use the automatic gas pedal. Just swap the manual brake pedal for the automatic pedal in the automatic assembly. Automatic axles do fit the manual transmission so manual axles are not needed as well. For del slos the stock manual shifter boot fits the automatic center console with no modification.

vitamin_c95

I just want to add a tip. Instead of dropping the steering column, I unbolted the brake pedal. That made it super easy to remove.

Also, maybe add in the wiring mods...reverse lights, neutral safety switch etc

94EG8

The same is true for the civics as well.

diversity210

Thanks for the tips vitamin. Ive heard that you can just remove the break pedal and that avoids having to drop the steering column. That is another way of doing it. The steering colum is only held up by four bolts so I decided why not give myself the extra room and just remove the whole assembly at once since I had the whole new pedal assmbly.

Thanks to lordhelmet too. I didnt see a difference in the manual and automatic axles myself, but I swapped them anyway just to be safe. Thanks for the input though

The one thing I forgot to add is the wireing. I will add that as soon as I have a little more time.

94EG8

This should help you out:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/5th-gen-civic-auto-manual-starting-circuit-right-way-2348557/

lordhelmet1584

How did you get the return spring for the brake pedal hooked up the new pedal? I originally pulled the auto pedal off and got the manual pedal bolted in but couldn't get the spring attached. I ended up having to drop the steering column down and removing the pedal assembly to get that damn spring attached anyways.

diversity210

yeah that upper spring would be a pain in the *** if your trying to just remove the brake pedal instead of dropping the console. You could use some really long neddle nose pliers and a little sweat, but still gonna give yo trouble.

Honestly to me taking the 4 bolts off nd dropping the console is a lot easier with a lot less hassle. Unbolt the whole pedal assembly and just wiggle it out. Install your new pedals and put the steering column and four 12mm bolts back up and your done.

lordhelmet1584

I couldn't get it with a pair of needle nose and a lot of sweat. My back still hates me for trying so long.

diversity210

Dude just do it the easy way that I recomended in the write up and drop the steering. Its only four bolts. Drop it unbold the assemble and pull it out. Its a lot easier bro.

jonesEK

iTrader: (1)

Can i use EG parts on an EK??? for example Starter.... Hardlines... front lower mount??.... inspector sheild.. ect


Im doubtful on the front lower mount..

jonesEK

iTrader: (1)

NVM got it thanks

what about throttle cable?? as mentioned above? does this work from an eg/ek??

diversity210

You should be able to use the starter and front lower mounts for an EK. Im 95% sure you can use the starter and front lower mounts for the EK. The inspection plate depends on what transmission you have. The A000 and B000 inspection plates are a little bit different. So it doesnt matter what kind of car they it comes off. It depends on what transmission it comes off of. As for the clutch hardlines. No you cant use the hardlines on an EK. They are different. In the EG the line from the slave cylinder leads directly left and bolts to the chasis of the car. On the EK the line from the slave cylinder goes accross the transmission. Also the line to the clutch master cylinder goes up over the brake master cylinder in the EK. On the EG the line goes under the brake master cylinder. Hope this helps

RamosKiiD

So can I just use a clutch pedal with the lines or do I need a new set of pedals ?

lordhelmet1584

Get the whole clutch pedal assembly and just the manual brake pedal.

guevera

guevera

hi guy...hope someone can help on this...
i had a eg8 d15b sohc vtec automatic and a few month ago i swap it to a manual transmission..i changed the ecu to manual ecu but i'm still using the original wiring harness.
now my car seem unstable, the idling is around 1000rpm and sometimes it drop to under 500 and almost stall the engine..and sometimes it get worst when i put the a/c on...the mechanic said the iacv and sensors are working but they couldn't figure out what's the problem....
1.can it be possible that the original engine wire harness contibute to this problem?(coz now i'm using manual ecu).
2.help me guys for any possible solutions.....tq

probz

Im done with my conversion but the SRS light is on and the CHECK ENGINE light is on, any clue on how to turn either of them off?

What if I don't change the ECU to a manual ECU would that cause the CHECK ENGINE light to come on?

Jhicks

I could use some pics. Lol Bc I've never done anything like this

JDM-sol 89

Yes, the CEL is from not using a manual ECU. You are probably throwing a code 19 for auto trans lockup. But, pull your codes to double check.