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Most likely, the Blu/Yel wire that runs between the driver's master switch and the passenger switch is broken. The first place to look for the break is in the passenger's and driver's door jamb connectors.
Would that cause the passenger switch to not work going downward?
It would cause the driver's master switch not to work at all on the passenger window and the passenger switch to move the passenger window up but not down.
You can verify my diagnosis if you understand the circuit diagram I posted.
Well, so the mystery has been solved and it wasn't the door jam connectors.
Using your wiring diagram, I took the off the connectors to the window switches and started testing by hotwiring connections together.
First, at the passenger side switch, I verified the window motor can go up and down.
Next, I hotwired the blu/yel wire straight from the driver side to the pass side, essentially skipping the floor harness, no luck
Lastly, I hotwired the driver side main switch and was able to operate the pass window.
Ahh, it must be the driver side switch that is at fault. So I took the bitch apart and....
Should I try to salvage this thing or just spring for a new one? When I bridge that connection, everything works
Without question, the Blu/Yel wire segment of the window circuit had an open because that would be the only way to produce the observed symptoms. I suggested a break in the Blu/Yel wire of one of the door jamb connectors because it's the most common problem area. However, as can be seen in the circuit diagram, there was also a possibility that the open was located in the short segment of the Blu/Yel wire circuit that extends into each switch. That's what you found in the driver's switch. Good job.
Pick up a replacement switch from a junk yard.
Last edited by Former User; 03-01-2016 at 05:08 AM.
Without question, the Blu/Yel wire segment of the window circuit had an open because that would be the only way to produce the observed symptoms. I suggested a break in the Blu/Yel wire of one of the door jamb connectors because it's the most common problem area. However, as can be seen in the circuit diagram, there was also a possibility that the open was located in the short segment of the Blu/Yel wire circuit that extends into each switch. That's what you found in the driver's switch. Good job.
Pick up a replacement switch from a junk yard.
Absolutely! Thanks for the diagram and getting me started in my diagnostic process. You guys are awesome! This was educational
What could've burned the switch out like that? The other copper connections look kinda fried as well.
02-28-2016, 05:57 PM
Power window conversion question ($20 reward)
