Bob117

Before I ask my question I do want to say I looked at the faq. I just have a
few extra questions about replacing the transmission fluid on a 1998 Honda Civic LX with a automatic transmission. When draining the fluid via just the drain plug, I've heard that not all the transmission fluid is drained out but most if it is right?

Is the transmission filter something that ABSOLUTELY has to be replaced?


If it is can anyone provide me with a proper picture of a automatic tranny filter? (I've found several different pictures on the net and its a bit confusing)

Does the washer that goes on the drain cap also ABSOLUTELY have to be replaced?

I've also read that when I change the fluid I have to drive a bit (about 50 miles) and then repeat this about 2-3 times before I'm good to go for about 70,000 miles or so. Is this fact or myth? Or does this depend on many different variables? BTW I'm a total idiot when it comes to cars so I may ask some dumb questions, I am taking a auto class to educate myself

94EG8

About half. The only way to drain it completely is to pull the transmission and the torque converted then drain the the torque converter.

Normally with a Honda you never replace them. You have to pull the transmission and take it apart as the filter is buried inside, pretty much all other manufacturers have a removable pan and replaceable filter.

No but for the little bit they cost there really isn't any good reason not to. You're looking at something like $2 max for a new crush washer.

That's the generally accepted, Honda approved method of flushing the transmission fluid. Do not ever powerflush a Honda transmission. It tends to blow everything in that internal filter I mentioned earlier everywhere it shouldn't be.

Everyone has to start somewhere. Even if you don't plan on doing much work yourself you'll at least have a better idea when/if you're being ripped off at a shop.

Bob117

Instead of replacing the fluid another 2 or 3 times, is there maybe some kind of vaccum pump i can put on the drain hole and just suck the rest of the fluid out? Maybe even something hand operated? Or do I have no other choice but to drop the entire transmission to gain access to the torque converter to drain it?

Also why isnt there a drain pain with an easily accessible tranny filter? I did watch a video for another make of car and all the guy had to do was drop the drain pan, clean it out, pop out the old filter stick a new one in and then put everything back together.

Former User

There is no way around it. You need to do three consecutive drain-and-fill cycles to do the job safely and correctly. It's not too difficult as there's no need to raise the front end on stands. Just slide your oil collection pan under the transmission.

94EG8

Like Ron said there really isn't anyway around it.

You'd have to ask Honda that one. They've always been that way though. Honda automatic transmissions are in a lot of ways more similar to a manual transmission than most other automatics.

Bob117

One final question can a automatic transmission filter also be known as a "strainer"?

Btw i want to mention I happen to have what I believe is a shop service guide for honda civics 1996-1998, its about 1400 pages long. It lists things I've never seen before. I found what I believe are the instructions on how to remove the automatic transmission filter if I decide to replace it. In the manual though they refer to it as a strainer thats why I was asking my previous question. Also if you guys would like I can upload to rapid file share or mega upload if you guys want a copy. Also thanks for all your help so far.

94EG8

The Honda ones are IIRC.

That would be the factory service manual (this is what the dealerships used). Linking to copyrighted content violates Honda-Tech's terms of service btw.

Former User

First, what is wrong with your transmission?

Second, replacing the strainer involves dropping the transmission and partially disassembling it. This is no small amount of work and should not be attempted unless your are an experienced mechanic.

Bob117

Well in that case I wont link it, but if you dont have a guilty conscience feel free to PM me. Anyways 1 other question I forgot to ask the recommended manfacturer fluid for my car is ATF-Z1 but according to another user on this forum Honda has begun replacing ATF-Z1 with ATF DW-1 should I stick to Z1 or can I get DW1 for my Honda? Here is the thread in question btw: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...smission+fluid and thanks again you guys this is invaluable knowledge to me.


Oh and I just noticed RonJ@HT asked what problems I'm having with my tranny. Before I answer that let me give some really short history on the car. My dad got this car when it had 80,000 miles on it, I got it roughly 6 months ago as a graduation present it had about 106,000 miles on it and about 1,000 miles later we did a bunch of maintenance, oil change, new gas filter, new air filter, new brake rotors and pads. Recently I've noticed while driving sometime the transmission when shifting will free rev for about half a second to a second before it kicks into the next gear, it seems to happen most often at around 3,500 rpm and about somewhere between 35-40 mph. I fooled around a bit and was able to make it happen twice in row at which I stopped. During my driving I try to always avoid letting it shift at 3,500 rpm. It has to be the just the right amount of accelration too. Also when stepping on the accelrator at very low speeds it seeks to shift hard, anyways I talked to my shop teacher and he reccommended trying tranny cleaner. I added about a pint of it and it didnt really seem to do much I actually somewhat overfilled the tranny so I am going to replace the fluid ASAP. I actually planned to buy all the supplies tommorow since thats payday for me but then the battery decided to die on me plus I wasn't sure exactly how to replace the fluid so for the past 2 hours or so I've been doing research. But with everything I've learned so far and all the videos I've watched I'm gonna go ahead and order the fluid online. It's too bad the tranny filter is so hard to replace I'd feel more comfortable knowing a fresh ones in there but from everything you guys have told me so far it sounds like its built to last a pretty long time.

94EG8

Exactly. It also involves using a special puller that's really only available to Honda dealerships.

For what it's worth I used to work as a tech (briefly) for a Honda dealership. Dealerships just flat out don't disassemble transmissions anymore. They only swap in a new Honda reman'd unit if there is something is wrong with the original. The internal filter is good for the life of the transmission.

Bob117

Well in that case I think I'm gonna become a maintenace freak with my tranny cause if that thing goes I sure as hell dont have the cash to replace or rebuild it. I'm a poor college student.

Former User

Any CEL codes? Is the D4 light on or blinking? Otherwise, start by doing the three drain-and-fill cycles with Honda ATF. Be sure to take the car on a short drive between each drain/refill cycle.

TwoFaced

EXTREMELY IMPORTANT ^

Tune-up shops seem to not pay attention to these things, and just want to make a dollar, so they do this constantly to honda transmissions and it only leads to disaster.

Good luck with the problem.

94EG8

Sadly my local Honda dealership just got one of these power flush machines. I can see it all now, sell customer transmission flush, then when transmission blows up sell them a new transmission.

Bob117

When you say the D4 light you mean the indicator light on what gear I'm in? I've never seen it flash. It justs stays a continous solid green. The only other gear light that are a different color are neutral and park and they are a solid red all the time. Also I don't know what a CEL code is. Between each flush of the transmission with new fluid how far should i drove before draining and refilling?

Former User

If the ECU detects a fault in any of the automatic transmission sensors, the D4 light in the cluster will blink and/or the CEL (check engine light; see picture under my user name) will remain on while driving.

A very short drive where you also move the shifter through all of the gears (P, R, N, D4...) would be sufficient.

Bob117

Oh yah I know what your talking about, like error codes. Anyways the check engine light does not come on and the D4 light does not come on.

Former User

When you turn the key from off to ON(II), does the CEL turn on and then off after 2 seconds? This will tell you whether the CEL works.

Bob117

My cars at home I'm not. I won't get home for about 2 hours I'll check then.

Bob117

Aleuts I just checked and yes the CEL light does come on for about 2 seconds and shuts off

Former User

Good luck with the ATF drain & refill.

apexi_rsx

i used to flush my tranny putting the car on jack stands. pulled the hoses to the radiator then turn the motor on and put it in neutral then catch the oil in a pan then keep adding fluid until about 6-7 quarts have flushed through.

Bob117

I was able to sucessfully drain and fill my tranny. Fluid is nice and clean now. My tranny still slips and shifts hard every so often but I think thats just normal for this tranny since its so irregular. Thanx for your help guys.

kevnad

Hey gentlemen, new to the site:
I have the same problem mentioned in this post. 98 Civic EX AT that slips from 2nd to
3rd, about 3000 RPMS. Is it a sensor? No CEL. If I cant powerflush, do I need to go to a dealer mechanic? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Kevnad