T_ypEr

Hello all, I'm new here so don't bag on me for being a n00b and only joining for wanting something. I'm a Honda fan and love their cars.

To the point: I have a 1992 Civic LX sedan that has been sitting parked for a year. My dad and I have replaced the following:
-Spark plugs: NGK Platinum
-Distributor rotor and cap (wires are in the cap correctly; we did them one at a time)
-Fuel pump Main Relay
-Air filter
-Battery
-Fuel filter

Here's what's happened so far:
We replaced all the parts listed above and it cranked fine, but didn't start. With some research we found that when the key is turned to the ON (right before cranking) fuel should gush out (or rather blast out) of the fuel filter when the top bolt is loosened.

We tried the test where we unplug the main relay and attach a jumper wire to terminals 5 and 7 on the harness and listen for the fuel pump (we have the back seat and fuel pump cover off) to make a whirring noise. It made the noise ONLY with the jumper wire and gushed fuel out of the fuel filter for about 2 seconds. However, the fuel pump did not start whirring when the main relay was plugged back in.

We checked EVERY fuse (and I mean EVERY POSSIBLE FUSE under the hood and dash) and they all checked out. We also checked for voltage in the MAP sensor and were getting fluctuating voltage, but it never got up to 1 volt. We also heard the fuel pump kick on when we first tested the MAP sensor, but only the first time. Then we tried to get the codes from the ECU with the blinking Check Engine Light by putting a jumper wire in the two terminals by the ECU. It sort of worked... According to the manual, we should get a long blink(s) for the first digit and then a fast blink(s) for the second digit. We got 2 fast blinks and that was it. Also, whenever I turn the key to the ON position after not touching the car for a few hours, there's a clicking coming from the center area nearby the E-brake. With every click there is a VERY brief blink from the Check Engine Light. We also checked for voltage on the ICU and there is voltage.

Then we checked the spark plugs for spark and there was nothing. All the plugs have NEVER been fired and the gap is correct.


Anyone know what the problem is? Some people in other forums have said that the ECU might be going bad and that the ECU should be the last thing to blame.

delsizzle1

the ecu is always the last thing blame.. unless ur doin a swap and didnt use the right one... but for ur no start problem u can try check tht clickin sound u hear and just make sure its not a wire tht may be shortin out... cuz if it is one, thts not good lol... and u can also check ur ign coil... your ign switch, cuz if ur main relay isnt clickin means ur either ot gettin power to it or its not gettin any ground to switch the prongs over tht are on the inside... and if you check all of these and the problem still continues well thn we'll have to go into someother kinda test...

Former User

Does the starter crank the engine with the key in ON(III)?

Try cleaning and tightening the ground wire attached to the thermostat housing and resolder the main relay.

Also double check 15A hood fuse 31 and 15A dash fuse 24. Fuse box diagrams can be found in the FAQs sticky.

T_ypEr

The starter cranks like a champ when I turn the key to III. We have also checked the thermostat housing ground, cleaned it up and tightened it. We even used it as a ground for when we checked some other sensors and it worked fine! But the main relay should be fine. We just put it in today!! And we have checked EVERY FUSE TO BE FOUND at least three times.

T_ypEr

Thanks for the tips, I'll try them out and let you know how it goes. BTW, where are the things you mentioned above? The manual we have doesn't have very clear pictures or very good descriptions of where they are. It's a Hanes manual.

Former User

Did you check both of those installed fuses with a test light to ensure that they get voltage and are not blown?

T_ypEr

Yep, both check out.

delsizzle1

ign coil is in the actual dizzy, and the main relay is under ur dash on right side kick panel usually has bout wires goin to it but ill try to post a pic of wht it looks liek and where its at exactly... and ur ign switch it wht u put ur key into lol might be goin bad or something... also r u usin the priginal key???? cuz my buddy had a very similar problem and his key wasnt cut right so wouldnt really work with his switch and once he got another re-made it was fine and th difference between wht he was usin before to wht it was supposed to be was a pretty big difference

Former User

The MAP sensor has three wires. The middle wire in the terminal is ground and the two outer terminals should read about 5V with the key in ON(II). With the connector unplugged, measure voltage at each outer terminal using body ground or the middle terminal as ground.

T_ypEr

We checked that already. Both terminals got under 1V.

T_ypEr

I don't think it's the ignition switch is going bad, it works just like how it should. Everything else gets power and the lights work well.

Former User

What did you use for ground in the tests? Same result with middle ground wire and body ground? If so and the wires are good, the ECU is bad.

delsizzle1

well if u certain tht ur switch is good i still insist on you double checkin ur ign switch... or u can also swappin out the dizzy wit another one n see if it strts up before u go ahead to change the ecu

T_ypEr

Hey, we just did some tests on the igniter unit, igniter coil, and MAP sensor. The MAP sensor is not getting the 5V it needs and is getting around 1V MAXIMUM from plugging it in and probing it from the back. We did a test on the ignition coil and it checked out. But the igniter unit failed it's test. We did all the tests our instructions said and if the tests are all ok and the system still fails to work then replace it

delsizzle1

well replace whtever it is tht didnt come out to specs and let us knw wht happens im curious on exactly wht it is...

T_ypEr

We bought a MAP sensor ($29) and ECU ($85 used). The ECU came in the mail first and we just put it in. The car fired right up and sounds like a CHAMP! No hesitation at all, started on the fourth crank. The valves sound great and the whole thing sounds like it's running on double cream! We also changed the Igniter unit a couple nights ago.

Thanks for all you help guys!!

delsizzle1

well glad to hear everything worked for u

T_ypEr

Here's an update for all of you guys:
So far, since we've gotten the engine running, we've replaced the oil and oil filter, PCV valve, thermostat, and have repaired the muffler (covered up a lot of holes). We will be replacing the front brakes and covering the driver seat with a seat cover soon and hopefully replacing the muffler in the near future. However, a couple of other things have come to our attention.

There is a white smoke that comes out of the muffler. We thought it was just condensation blowing out, but then it kept blowing out. Current theories are that there might be a crack in the cylinder head or a broken head gasket and coolant is leaking into the oil OR the throttle body might need to be adjusted.

Another problem is that the thermostat gauge stays MAXED OUT all the time, even when I turn the key to the ON (II) position before starting it. It just shoots right up there and doesn't come down! The thermostat itself is good because we just replaced it with a new one. We don't have any ideas on this one.

Former User

The head gasket is most likely blown.

delsizzle1

check the wiring from the coolant temp sensor in the case of your needle always stayin up...
and it can possibly be your head gasket but u can also double the intake manifold gasket first just so can say u checked it and it wasnt bad before u go tearing the motor apart to do the head

civic 808

The capacitor's in the old ECU leaks with age, there should be 7 that need to be replaced (desoldered and resoldered) Take the old one, if you still have it, to a electronics shop and have them replace the capacitor's for a backup ECU.

Former User

I sure wish somebody would create a DIY thread for ECU repair, along with mention of where to buy the replacement parts. I'd make it a FAQs sticky link in a New York minute.