FakeVtecSticker

I got my basemap in from Xenocron tuning. We tried starting the car with no basemap and no turbo before sending the ECU out, and I think I've flooded it. Spark plugs are black which indicates spark (I think?), I'm definitely getting fuel, probably too much. Would there be any reason why I wouldn't be getting air? Or lack of compression? When I crank it, it sounds "lumpy" and isn't the constant "click click click", more like "click.. click click... click click...".

Should I try jumping the battery?

Edit: Attempted jumping the battery with my van, it'll crank normally until the battery light turns on, then it'll sound uneven and lumpy again. It's not flooded, I disconnected the injectors and cranked until there was no smoke (bad I know).

I really don't know what to do.

mk378

Charge the battery with an AC powered charger to bring it to full capacity.

Plugs with a lot of black stuff on them could be "fouled out" and not spark well or at all. Try new plugs, or put your plugs in a car that works, start it up if it will and take a short drive to burn the stuff off.

Compression test is always a good idea if you don't know the condition of the engine. If the valves are too tight you may have no compression in one or more cylinders leading to "lumpy" turnover and difficult or no starting.

FakeVtecSticker

We cleaned the plugs when they were out today so they're not very dirty at all, they're brand new as well. I had good compression prior to turbo install.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

verify mechanical timing, check compression.

FakeVtecSticker

Started today! for 5 seconds, then it flooded out. Good thing I ordered a FPR, I think that'll fix the issue (wayyy too much fuel). Checked ignition timing, vacuum lines, and sensor clips, and hooked up compression tester. It wanted to start with the tester in, so we threw in the spark plug and she went until sputtering out.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

The car should not want to start during a compression test. Fuel and spark should both be disabled during the test. Did you verify mechanical timing?

FakeVtecSticker

Yeah, we were dumb and disabled neither. Mechanical timing is good.

mk378

For a compression test, first you would take all the spark plugs out so the engine will spin faster.

Then disable the ignition by unplugging the harness plugs from the distributor. That is very important on a Civic because the coil is prone to blow if you fire it into an open circuit (spark wire(s) unplugged).

Unplugging the distributor also prevents any fuel from being injected because without pulses from the distributor, the ECU thinks the engine is not turning.

FakeVtecSticker

Oh, I was actually working with a kid who went to school at Penn Tech for 2 years to be a mechanic yesterday, I didn't look up how to do a compression test because I just figured he knew what he was doing... That's on me.

tony_2018

How long did you crank the car?

FakeVtecSticker

No more than 5 seconds, afraid to mess up the starter.

FakeVtecSticker

Tested fuel pressure today, 50 PSI when cranking. I think this is my issue. I know FP would lower when the car is running with a vacuum signal, but 50 is way high. Good thing new FPR is coming tomorrow. Sound like it might be the issue to you? Would make sense since we checked literally everything else.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

where did you measure the pressure at?

FakeVtecSticker

Fuel filter, I think. Mounted to the firewall, 1 banjo bolt